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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 02:49 PM
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Default Advice needed on the heads

Are the heads with these specs any good?
I intend to use them on my 71 with 350/270 with th400.
I already have long tube headers and performer intake mounted.

Material: 355T6 alum alloy
Comb Chambers: 64cc
Intake Valve Dia: 2.02”
Intake Port volume: 200cc
Intake Port Dim: 1.190”w x 2.075”h
Int Port Location: Stock
Intake Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1205 Mr. Gasket 106
Exh Valve Dia.: 1.600”
Exh Port volume: 62cc
Exhaust Port Dim: 1.410”w x 1.350”t
Exhaust Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1404 Mr. Gasket 150c or Ultra Seal 5900
Flow, Intake: 257 cfm @ .500” lift / 28”
Flow, Exhaust: 172 cfm @ .500” lift / 28”
Push Rod length: Stock thru +.100” Should always measure (Stock length = 7.800”)
Retainers: Steel 10° with 1.437”
straight .750” reach, gasketed, Autolite AR3934
Springs: Our assembly:1.437D = 130# @ 1.800” / .620” max Comp 987
Valve Length: Std 4.935” w/ 1.250 & 1.437 / 5.035” (+.100) w/ 1.550
Valve Train: Std SBC 3/8”

deck thickness is 10mm
valve guides are bronze
maximum lift for the valves 0.575 inches ,14.6mm

Combustion Chamber: 64cc
Intake Runner: 200cc
Exhaust Runner: 62cc
Intake Valve: 2.02"
Exhaust Valve: 1.60"
Valve Guides fitted
Valve Job: 3-angle
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Primož Krajcar
Are the heads with these specs any good?
I intend to use them on my 71 with 350/270 with th400.
I already have long tube headers and performer intake mounted.

Material: 355T6 alum alloy
Comb Chambers: 64cc
Intake Valve Dia: 2.02”
Intake Port volume: 200cc
Intake Port Dim: 1.190”w x 2.075”h
Int Port Location: Stock
Intake Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1205 Mr. Gasket 106
Exh Valve Dia.: 1.600”
Exh Port volume: 62cc
Exhaust Port Dim: 1.410”w x 1.350”t
Exhaust Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1404 Mr. Gasket 150c or Ultra Seal 5900
Flow, Intake: 257 cfm @ .500” lift / 28”
Flow, Exhaust: 172 cfm @ .500” lift / 28”
Push Rod length: Stock thru +.100” Should always measure (Stock length = 7.800”)
Retainers: Steel 10° with 1.437”
straight .750” reach, gasketed, Autolite AR3934
Springs: Our assembly:1.437D = 130# @ 1.800” / .620” max Comp 987
Valve Length: Std 4.935” w/ 1.250 & 1.437 / 5.035” (+.100) w/ 1.550
Valve Train: Std SBC 3/8”

deck thickness is 10mm
valve guides are bronze
maximum lift for the valves 0.575 inches ,14.6mm

Combustion Chamber: 64cc
Intake Runner: 200cc
Exhaust Runner: 62cc
Intake Valve: 2.02"
Exhaust Valve: 1.60"
Valve Guides fitted
Valve Job: 3-angle
They are not you should box them up and send them to me and i will dispose of them for you. They look good to me but you also have to watch for quality of the brand, poor or thin castings, bad valve job/seats, loose valve guides are all things that will give you problems.

What brand are they?
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kacyc3
They are not you should box them up and send them to me and i will dispose of them for you. They look good to me but you also have to watch for quality of the brand, poor or thin castings, bad valve job/seats, loose valve guides are all things that will give you problems.

What brand are they?
Still waiting for the seller to send me the manufacturer.
If you can decode from the pics all the better.

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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Primož Krajcar
Still waiting for the seller to send me the manufacturer.
If you can decode from the pics all the better.

names are usually on the end for aftermarkets, other than oem if they wont stamp their name on it dont buy it.
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 03:58 PM
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200 cc is kind of big for a street engine and an auto trans. You really should look for something in the 180-195 cc size. What camshaft are you running? What other modifications do you have to the engine? They only give you one flow number at .500 lift and it is low compared to better heads like AFR. Both the AFR 195 and AFR 180 street head beat the flow numbers of those heads. Especially on the exhaust side.
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
200 cc is kind of big for a street engine and an auto trans. You really should look for something in the 180-195 cc size. What camshaft are you running? What other modifications do you have to the engine? They only give you one flow number at .500 lift and it is low compared to better heads like AFR. Both the AFR 195 and AFR 180 street head beat the flow numbers of those heads. Especially on the exhaust side.
As long as I know the engine is bone stock 350/270.
I would like to change the cam, timing gear, heads and everything that comes with them. I aim at around 1500-2000$ budget.
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Sigforty
200 cc is kind of big for a street engine and an auto trans. You really should look for something in the 180-195 cc size. What camshaft are you running? What other modifications do you have to the engine? They only give you one flow number at .500 lift and it is low compared to better heads like AFR. Both the AFR 195 and AFR 180 street head beat the flow numbers of those heads. Especially on the exhaust side.
remember gm also sells their 210cc fastburns on a 350.

If they are a reasonable price they could be descent for a budget build, if they are on the higher side you could buy new and exactly what you would need for your build.
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Primož Krajcar
As long as I know the engine is bone stock 350/270.
I would like to change the cam, timing gear, heads and everything that comes with them. I aim at around 1500-2000$ budget.
That is not a very big budget. Depending on what those heads cost, you will also need a new cam and lifters. Swapping the cam will definitely help you see the power potential of the heads. If your budget could go to $3000, I would suggest a roller cam conversion.

Originally Posted by Kacyc3
remember gm also sells their 210cc fastburns on a 350.

If they are a reasonable price they could be descent for a budget build, if they are on the higher side you could buy new and exactly what you would need for your build.
That they do, but if buying an aftermarket head I would prefer something with better flow numbers down low. Especially on the street where smaller ports and correct velocities help generate the low end torque.
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 07:29 PM
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Still waiting for seller to name them? Tells me they are not very famous. What I do see in the photos reminds me of some complaints a few years back. It seems that some brands of aluminum heads had a low valve cover ridge or pad. (That area between the springs and the exhaust ports). The higher the better to contain the oil before it drains into the lifter valley. It seems that the valve cover gasket didn't have a fighting chance of not leaking with a low oil dam. Hard to tell in the photo but seems shallow on the inside. That could also mean tall valve covers are a must to clear the rockers.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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The seller responded today. He said that the heads are Brodex! Never heard of them!
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 02:32 PM
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Are you sure it is not Brodix? If they are Brodix they are a good quality part.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 02:36 PM
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If they are Brodix, they will say Brodix on the head and have serial numbers on them. Ask him for photos of the name and serial numbers.

Mike

Last edited by v2racing; Aug 31, 2017 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 03:23 PM
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bet they are brodix knockoffs they are everywhere on ebay sold under different brands could be all the same who knows what they really are

edit 10 mm deck?????someone posted a pic of those yesterday carried the scorpion name.

Last edited by cv67; Aug 31, 2017 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
bet they are brodix knockoffs they are everywhere on ebay sold under different brands could be all the same who knows what they really are
They probably are. They are cheap in my opinion at $840 including shipping and the seller is in UK so he is from Europe like me.
But on the other hand I've found edelbrock heads at Jegs for about $200 more but that is because of the customs.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 04:24 PM
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To be honest, the photos don't look like Brodix heads.

Mike
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 04:26 PM
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I have Brodix IK 200, and I can tell you they don't look like the IK series of heads.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 05:26 PM
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Brodix for $840 shipped to EU, Run Forrest Run.

My guess is Pro-Comp or any other head made in China.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
bet they are brodix knockoffs they are everywhere on ebay sold under different brands could be all the same who knows what they really are
But every now and then people get lucky.
A friend of mine just found a bare set of 195 Pro-Filers for 600 dollars on craigslist.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 06:33 PM
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A cylinder head w/o a brand name and casting numbers is just a set up. I wouldnt even bother to look at the specs of a no-name part that costs what $840. The sbc is the cheapest V8 engine to rebuild and buy performance parts for in the world. If you dont have the budget for good parts for a sbc maybe you need another hobby. I just dont have sympathy for those so budget minded they want someone to substantiate a poor idea of using substandard or questionable parts. There very good heads for just a little more money that would pay for a what couple of dinner dates, or golf rounds, or ski lift tickets. For an additional $300-$500 you can buy quality heads to bolt on and go. If you can only budget for no-name parts I guess I have to say I think you choose another hobby.
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Old Sep 1, 2017 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
A cylinder head w/o a brand name and casting numbers is just a set up. I wouldnt even bother to look at the specs of a no-name part that costs what $840. The sbc is the cheapest V8 engine to rebuild and buy performance parts for in the world. If you dont have the budget for good parts for a sbc maybe you need another hobby. I just dont have sympathy for those so budget minded they want someone to substantiate a poor idea of using substandard or questionable parts. There very good heads for just a little more money that would pay for a what couple of dinner dates, or golf rounds, or ski lift tickets. For an additional $300-$500 you can buy quality heads to bolt on and go. If you can only budget for no-name parts I guess I have to say I think you choose another hobby.
Far from it that I look only at budget parts. But I do look at as wider range of options as possible. In Europe I have to take in mind the customs and shipping charges when looking for parts. Luckily ebay exists and jegs and other sellers offer great shipping options to my country. I'm a little bit of a novice in engine rebuilding and specs of the parts and that is why I posted the question.
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