One side lower than the other.
#2
Nam Labrat
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Now......THAT'S a can of worms!
1. Unequal tire pressure.
2. Different size tires.
3. Your driveway.
I'll let other members add to the list.
1. Unequal tire pressure.
2. Different size tires.
3. Your driveway.
I'll let other members add to the list.
#3
Nam Labrat
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One other thing.......does the entire car seem lower on one side.......OR....
Is the front-only or rear-only lower on one side.
Is the front-only or rear-only lower on one side.
The following 2 users liked this post by Bloodzone:
Larwhyte (08-31-2017),
Torqued Off (08-31-2017)
The following users liked this post:
Larwhyte (08-31-2017)
#6
Nam Labrat
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6. Worn A-arm bushings on low side
7. Collapsed body mounts on low side of car.
7. Collapsed body mounts on low side of car.
#7
Nam Labrat
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The following users liked this post:
Larwhyte (08-31-2017)
#9
Front and rear on the left side is 1/2 inch lower that the right side, front and rear..
body mounts "look" ok
Last edited by Larwhyte; 08-31-2017 at 02:43 PM.
#10
#11
Le Mans Master
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
The battery is on left side, the brake booster and master cylinder are on the left side, the steering column on left side. Seems like there is simply more weight on the left side of the car....! I suppose the left springs could be made to compensate for it, but I bet the effort was not made.
#12
Melting Slicks
It was the front springs that made mine lower on the LH side, new set of springs and now level. PO thought it was rear spring and had it re-tempered and reset by a spring manufacturer- made no difference.
#13
Burning Brakes
It wasn't made like that. There is no reason your car should not sit level. My '77 sits level and it has a steering column, brake booster, and master cylinder in it.
#14
Burning Brakes
A 1/2"? Really? Sounds like you need to start working on something on your car that needs repair. You might have too much time on your hands. I've had my '72 for 43 years and have never measured it. But good luck with your search for the answer. I hope you get it fixed.
Duane
Duane
#15
Nam Labrat
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A simple non-professional fix for 1/2" lean:
Put a "hard rubber" coil spring spacer UNDER the coil spring on the low side......(but first check to see if there is a coil spring spacer on the PASSENGER side that can be REMOVED which might solve the front lean).........
then adjust the rear spring bolt 1/4".......and adjust the other spring bolt in the opposite direction to level the rear of the car.
**************************************** **************************************** *******
I am now in the process of leveling my car for bodywork. Here is a DIY method of finding the "lean" problem:
1. Park car on concrete.
2. Make chalk mark around each tire.
3. Back car away.
4. Use a level to check across front marks for level(ness) of concrete.
5. Add a 1 ft. by 1 ft. shim the needed thickness under low side of level to compensate for "dip" in concrete. Tape shim to concrete to prevent it from moving.
6. Repeat # 5 for rear marks. The concrete is now "Leveled".
7. Drive car onto leveled marked areas.
8. On a sheet of paper write measurements of distance from fender lip to concrete (or shim).
Note: I find that it is easier to make adjustments/ changes to the rear of the car first.
Put a "hard rubber" coil spring spacer UNDER the coil spring on the low side......(but first check to see if there is a coil spring spacer on the PASSENGER side that can be REMOVED which might solve the front lean).........
then adjust the rear spring bolt 1/4".......and adjust the other spring bolt in the opposite direction to level the rear of the car.
**************************************** **************************************** *******
I am now in the process of leveling my car for bodywork. Here is a DIY method of finding the "lean" problem:
1. Park car on concrete.
2. Make chalk mark around each tire.
3. Back car away.
4. Use a level to check across front marks for level(ness) of concrete.
5. Add a 1 ft. by 1 ft. shim the needed thickness under low side of level to compensate for "dip" in concrete. Tape shim to concrete to prevent it from moving.
6. Repeat # 5 for rear marks. The concrete is now "Leveled".
7. Drive car onto leveled marked areas.
8. On a sheet of paper write measurements of distance from fender lip to concrete (or shim).
Note: I find that it is easier to make adjustments/ changes to the rear of the car first.
Last edited by doorgunner; 09-01-2017 at 09:39 PM.