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Any tips on removing the converter to flexplate bolts?
I've tried breaker bar, impact gun, etc...can't get any of the three bolts to budge...
Have them soaking with some penetrant now, hoping it'll loosen them up, but am I missing something? Never had this issue before, after several trans swaps in multiple cars!
More than likely those bolts and the flywheel bolts received LocTite Red when somebody torqued them down. The only alternative is heat (torch) with the Red stuff.
Update: When I said "torch" I meant those small yellow bottles found at hardware stores. I can't remember the name of the gas but it should be good for 300* like 7t1 mentioned. Much safer than using the big bruiser torch. It is quite common to use LocTite Red on critical parts like the drivetrain, but you pay for that in the end.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 4, 2017 at 07:47 AM.
All due respect, I came asking for constructive help...
If a box end wrench were all it took, I would not be posting this.
If you have nothing constructive to add, please stay silent...
I did have something constructive to add, maybe you're trying to turn the nuts in the wrong direction. Stranger things have happened. Don't be so quick to find fault with someone who is trying to help.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
More than likely those bolts and the flywheel bolts received LocTite Red when somebody torqued them down. The only alternative is heat (torch) with the Red stuff.
+1 for heat. No other efficient way if red locktite used.
You will need a pretty good sized torch for heating them. Red Loctite needs to see 300*F+ to loosen its grip. But, my bet is that they have the Loctite treatment, too.
The 'correct' approach would be to use the special bolts that GM installed...without lockwashers. They had undercut heads and were machined flat on the underside of the heads--to fit well and to self-lock after torqueing.
But, those are probably long gone. Soooo... the better method of retention would be to clean the threads on bolts and flexplate and use the Red 'threadlocker' Loctite. Use star-washers if you wish; but I would go without them.
So when I re-attach my converter, is the standard practice nowdays to use red loctite or is blue loctite fine with a star washer ?
Richard
Red loctite is considered permanent. I would use blue. It will work fine at keeping the bolts from vibrating lose and will be able to be removed when you want to. I own a machine shop and we often use loctite. But we only use red when the screws are never supposed to be removed, otherwise it's blue.
Red Loctite is 'permanent' until heated beyond 300*F. And that is what you want with converter bolts. Use Blue Loctite, those bolts could come loose; use Red Loctite...they won't. And, if you have the proper bolts for that attachment, you don't need any Loctite.
Red Loctite is 'permanent' until heated beyond 300*F. And that is what you want with converter bolts. Use Blue Loctite, those bolts could come loose; use Red Loctite...they won't. And, if you have the proper bolts for that attachment, you don't need any Loctite.
I would not want to heat that area up to 300 degrees.....your rear main seal is just on the other side of the flange those bolts go into. You could easily damage the rear main seal. Blue loctite would not come lose but can be broken lose with a wrench. Most specialty bolt manufacturers recommend oiling the bolts for a true torque reading. And those bolts don't back out.
Red loctite is why the Op had a problem in the first place, and heating it up on a critical engine part is not the right way to go..IMHO.