what is the fuel pressure.cross-fires have always had fuel pump problems. a new pump can be weak.you could have a clogged filter in the tank or a weak pump.If you know these parts are good then you can move on .

 

ok what's the secret to getting the old o2 sensor out? It's like it's welded in there. The split socket slipped off and broke the ceramic insulator and rounded two corners. That's when I gave up.

And would it it be best to replace the cat converter? 48k miles. Doesn't seem to be very expensive.

 

Trying to get o2 sensor in before I test fuel pressure since I am getting 13 error code.

 

you have two choices take cat off .with along rod clean it out ,put back on .you now have a test pipe.Or you can buy a new one . the cats from that year were bad when new .anything you do will be a good thing.

 

vacuum is at 17 in HG. Is that good?
testing fuel pressure looks a lot more difficult but injectors seem to have plenty of pressure. Fuel is splashing out of tb.

 

vac for a crossfire is lower than other cars because of the single plane intake design.17 is what I have but I also have more cam than stock.The best way to check fuel pressure on a crossfire is with a gauge between the throttle bodys.since you don't have that I would check for pressure before the fuel filter.If you don't have 11 psi or better[ 13- 14 is what you want]then your problem is fuel related.This is the most common problem with crossfires.You may have other problems but you have to start some where and that would be the best place to start.

 

Soak the O2 sensor with your favorite penetrating oil (Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent) Use a 6 point socket or wrench. If that doesn't get it, heat.

 

been soaking with wd40. Trying again tomorrow with breaker bar. Using the slotted o2 sensor socket.

Will try fuel pressure test after I get the o2 sensor changed.

Thanks for info!

 

Can't get a six point on over the sensor.

 

ok the new o2 sensor is in and 13 code is gone, now all 12's.

Runs better but still have the same problem.

Another clue is that the problem shows up more at low idle when I press lightly on the gas at cruising speeds. If I downshift to 3rd it runs better. It cuts out more in a higher gear and lower rpm.

I have to make a little tubing setup to test fuel pressure. That's my next project.

 

ok fuel pressure test done. Since my gauge only goes up to 10 psi it was pegged the whole time so assuming it got to at least 11 psi. About 2-3 psi with key turned and engine not running.

What's next?

 

good, that sounds okay .how do the plugs look?are they black from soot or are they burning clean?Have you checked your iac? You can check to see if the are working by looking down in the tb when you rev it up .they could be dirty on the tip .have you done a check on the tps.Is the timing right on?If all these things have been checked you may have to think about the computer.P.S before doing much more I would drive the car a few miles.the computer needs to reset sometimes.

 

Thats as far as I got today. Was going to look at plugs, and buy new coil and distributor parts next.
I can check iac but not sure what i am looking for there. Have not checked tips or timing yet. Learning as I go here.

I did drive it for a few miles but it got worse and I didn't want to get stuck somewhere.

Did you see my additional clues above? Does that help any?

 

when you take off the air cleaner. throttle body has a big hole for the injector air and gas.there also is a smaller hole to the front and left.with a flash light look into hole .you can see the pintil moving in and out letting vac air in .If there working great but they may also leaking air .https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+corvette+iac+ 1984 crossfire is the same motor.

 

The most well known issue with driveability on the `82, if there are no codes, is the fuel pump. Remember to turn the sender clockwise while you are pulling it out and reverse this when reinstalling the sender with a new pump/small hose. My recommendation is to install a new sender while you have it out, but that is your call. If you have the original fuel pump, there is no point in going further as they all (100%) fail or are on their very last legs after 35 years.

That said, be sure to tighten all of the bolts that you see on the intake manifold (this fixed some issues for me). Be positive that you have reattached the hose that goes from the air cleaner housing at the thermo-coupler to the intake manifold on the driver's side - a simple, but show-stopper thing. The Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor could cause this, as well, but should have thrown a code. It is located at the front of the engine near the waterpump. Btw, if your "cut-out" only happens when you tromp the accellerator, and otherwise idles and runs find up to approx. 35 MPH, the issue is probably your ECM - or, more specifically the chip. If you have had the chip out and mis-installed it backwards, you will have fried your ECM chip and will experience a cut-out after around 35MPH. The processor (ECM) then sends the computer into "LOF" (limited operation function) in order to limp you home. The only fix is to install a Hypertech street runner chip or contact Zip Corvette for a refurbished OEM chip. I thought that the HyperTech chip worked exceptionally well because it also helps with improving the shift performance of our, then revolutionary, electronic O/D transmissions.

Give up the "Seafoam", "Mystery Oil" or other `snake oil' magical fuel additives, but, do run a fuel injector cleaner through your system which all `82's need for fuel injector maintenance purposes. I also have to wonder if you have really looked at all of your vacuum hoses in the headlight stream, including the hoses to the override valve switch under the steering column - because, if it is running too lean, this will cause your issue.

Hope this helps -

Dave

 

Dave - thank you for this info. I just tested the fuel pressure and my gauge only goes to 10 and it was pegged the entire time so I think the pressure is acceptable.

Engines idles terrible and is choppy and the car runs choppy all the time, not just at idle or below 35 MPH. It is worse in a higher gear at low RPM - lightly touching the gas. I have never touched the ECM.

I tested the vacuum at the headlight connection near the firewall - drivers side. I believe that is where the override switch is. Headlights went up when I pulled the hose and vacuum measured 17 in Hg.

All hoses have been reconnected. Ok on fuel injector cleaner - I have 3/4 tank so when it is gone I can fill up and add a good fuel injector cleaner.

Please continue to add comments.

Thanks

 

terry82 - I see that the IAC replacement looks easy - is it worth it to just change them out now and see what happens? I have seen prices from $5 - $85??? I always try to use AC Delco parts if i can which is at the $85 price. What do you think?

 

i would change them only if they are bad .you can take them out and clean the tips only and you can clean inside the throttle body seat.AC delco are the best parts for are cars.Did the videos help?

 

Does your Check Engine lamp light? Mine was burned out and I did not realize it at first. Does the car idle at all? I had issues and a real gassy smell. Would not run right at all and it turned out to the the Throttle Position Sensor would not calibrate. Another issue I had with surging was a bad fuel pump even though the fuel injection "cone" spray looked ok. Good luck!