Check engine lamp does work. Engine idles rough between 6-10k RPMs. I think I eliminated the bad fuel pump with steady pressure greater than 10 psi.

Did you replace the Throttle Position Sensor?

 

OK, not to lecture but if you want to do your own maintenance on this car you need a Service Manual. Also read the "stickey's" at the start of the C3 Forum. There is a specifically for '82's. There is also information in the C4 Forum since the '84 has the same powertrain. Also use the Search function for 'TPS' (or anything else). My apologies if somebody has already recommended all of this. The basic way to test the TPS is to use a multimeter, Torx screwdriver, and test leads which you can make or buy. The TPS is mounted on the drivers side of the Throttle Bodies and is moved by the throttle linkage. It has one connector with three wires attached. The following steps were copied by an old post by forum user Black85:

"There are 3 wires stacked vertically on the TPS. You will need to be able to measure the voltage between the two top wires. You can either buy a special harness connector that breaks these wires out (from Min America), or gently pierce the insulation of the wires with the pointy prongs on your volt meter. You can also stick a paper clip into each of the two top locations of the connector and clamp onto the paper clips to measure the voltage. Whatever is easiest for you.

1. Turn the ignition to the “ON” position without starting the engine.
2. Loosen the TPS Torx adjustment screws.
3. Set your volt meter to the low scale DC volt setting that will accurately read less than 1 volt.
4. Measure the voltage between the two top TPS wires.
5. Adjust the TPS by rotating its position until you get a reading of .54 volts.
6. Tighten the Torx screws and recheck the voltage. Readjust if necessary to make sure voltage is right at .54
7. Turn the ignition “OFF.”"

Good luck and I hope you have it running like a scalded dog soon.
-Chris

 

Thank you I will definitely check out those threads and get my hands on a service manual.

To continue the prior conversation I did see that the IAC valves appear to be functioning. They are moving in and out in slow slight movements when running. If I remove them to clean I am more inclined to replace them rather than put the old parts back in. Any further comments to that thought?

Also I am thinking of replacing coil and distributor parts, plugs and wires.

 

If the parts are working and you want to replace them that's up to you .new coil is a good idea they can still work but not be as good as new.plugs and wires are a good idea.

 

shopping manuals - Do I want the shop manual, service manual or assembly manual?

 

You want the GM Factory Service manual. The one printed by HELM Inc. for GM and used by the dealers in their shops.

 

Assembly manual is very useful too if you plan on keeping the car for a while. Many of the drawings are duplicated in the service and vendor manuals but the drawings are larger and also include notes with torque settings and bolt information. I have one and have used it many times. They are not expensive. Recommended.

 

Ok I'll look for both of those. Thanks.