perl

Hi,
I come from germany and have a 72er C 3 454 standard condition no tuning, about 2 years ago the engine was completely overhauled
a camshaft Lunati 10110703 was installed with hydraulic lifters 71817PR-16, now after approximately 5500 miles, the camshaft is again damaged, only the cam and the lifter exhaust valve cyl 5, all others look like new,
My request would be a recommendation which better quality parts one could install and who can deliver it.
Thanks and Regards
Udo

JohnRR

My '73 454 had a wiped out cam, lifters, and a couple of stock rockers too. I replaced the whole valve train with parts from Comp Cams. Since I like machine parts that roll, and not rub, I went with a mild 224/230 duration Roller Cam (P/N 11-423-8, XR276HR-10, Kit#K11-423-8) with Comp retro fit hydraulic Roller Lifters. I also replaced the stamped steel rockers with a set of used Crane Gold Full Roller Rockers. This engine had so much wear, that some of the rocker studs were worn about 30% through by the edges of the stock rockers.
Like the previous guy said, roller cams need a button up front to control end play. I installed a new Cloyes aluminum timing chain cover with an adjustable cam button.
My distributor is a new MSD unit that has a drive gear that is compatible with the new cam.
The stock intake manifold weighs a ton! So I replaced it with a used Edelbrock Performer. This will require a L88 style hood for clearance.
I also replaced the fuel pump pushrod with a bronze tipped piece.
Overall, the new stuff works well. The cam has a little bit of lope at idle, and good low end torque.

John

jb78L-82

I put a Howards retro roller cam in my C3 in June 2014 (4 summers now) and was concerned with all the "extra" work going roller and the myths/cost of the change. After much research and speaking with Howards, I made the switch to roller and was surprised at how easy it was.

First off, a retro roller cam installation is NOT 4X as expensive as the flat tappet cam in my case with new AFR cylinder heads that already had the appropriate valve springs for the new cam. The roller cam kit cost about $600 in 2014 with new roller lifters. I reused my comp cams double roller timing chain since it was relatively new with few miles on it. The howards roller pushrods were $100. The cam button was $15 and I used the stock OEM GM timing cover, slightly dimpled, with the cam button since the OEM GM cover is very strong and easily stiff enough to handle the supposed flexing of the timing cover with a roller cam conversion (In addition, the C3 water pump butts directly up against the timing cover and there is zero chance that the GM timing chain cover will flex with a roller cam...another misconception). Total cost-$715

Most of the flat tappet cam kits are about $350....The roller cam conversion was about 2X the cost, not 4X the cost!

In addition, the beauty of howards roller cams for street cars is that their roller cams do NOT require a different distributor gear nor a special fuel pump pushrod gear since "This cam is ground on a SADI core. Use an iron gear, just like it was a flat tappet cam." ...Both of mine are stock GM and are perfect after 4 years of running the roller cam....

L88Plus

$200 for flat tappet lifters and cam.
Plus how much for tear down, vat everything, install new bearings and reassemble after fine particles from cam lobe circulate through entire system?

tt 383

If it was the same lifter, I would would think that bore is not right... does the lifter spin in its bore freely?

terry82

If its the same cam lobe ? I would look at oil getting to that lifter and cam lobe.

jb78L-82

I guess you did not read what the cost comparison was for my retro roller versus the flat tappet cam kit that I did....Roughly $350 versus $715..that is not 4X no matter what the math....

Even the other example given from the other poster, $200 for flat tappet cam and lifters, add in 16 new pushrods, and the cost is $300 versus $700 for the retro roller....again not 4X but 2.5 X.

Whether it 2x, 3X, or 4x the cost, there is a very good reason that rollers cost more...more reliable, simple breakin, better area under the power curve, etc...THERE IS A REASON! Let's stop the nonsense that you can get all the benefits of a roller using a cheap flat tappet cam...not the case.

diehrd

First lets find out why only 5 went bad and then move forward.. Usually when its oil related you will see gradual were on a few lobes. Check valve springs , FOR sure check lifter bore and push rod length , generally make sure the heads and lifter areas are 100% right before you just toss parts into her .

Milan454

I went through 3 cams once only to figure out the valve guides were not all installed to the same height causing retainer to guide clash.
Milan

2mnyvets

I believe these engines are noted for lifter bore misalignment. I am in the process of a frame off and I went with a Lunati roller PN for the following reasons:
1. The engine had three wiped lobes. Don't remember which ones but they were in a row and in the back of the block.
2. These engines are known to have lifter bore alignment issues. The cost to correct that was $500+/-.
3. The Lunati rep said that the minor misalignment will not affect the roller cam.
4. The car will sit for months at a time which will put any flat tappet cam at risk during start-up.
5. The engine is numbers matching but I am not doing anything that would preclude me from returning it to"original" in the future.
6. Everything internal to the engine is custom fitted(dare I say blue printed?) and i don't want to take any chances with foreign objects in the oil. I have way to much money invested for that.

When you buy everything (timing chain cover with thrust button, compatible distributor gear and pump push rod) you are closer to $1000 compared to about $700 for a flat tappet and the machine work.
Everybody has to make their own decision. I actually had a flat tappet and sent it back. To me the roller virtually eliminates any risk of failure, makes the car more reliable and protects my numbers matching engine. For what I am doing with the car, the extra $300 is worth the benefit.

CheezMoe

+1 on the Howards Retro-Roller stuff. Mine is a SBC but the quality/price/support is unmatched imo!

Milan454

OP to each his own. I have been building BBC for 30 years using flat tappet cam shafts. The block misalignment BS is in the same category as "thicker webbing" blocks. there is some truth to it but to average BBC users it is not a factor. Roller valve train means more reciprocating mass and beefier valve springs and rockers. I have 5 BBC cars. some sit for an entire year and I have never wiped a cam due to sitting. This is based upon my experiences, others will vary as will yours. PM me if you are interested in down to earth feedback. I'm not into being a keyboard commando....

san

Truer words have never been spoken!!!!
Although there are alot of benefits to the roller setups, the number one reason is for more rpm, so if your going to push the rpm past the redline then your going to need more than a roller assembly to be safe anyways....and if your trying to save a numbers matching block then why would you be pushimg redline to begin with???? If you are not concerned about price and want to preserve numbers why not just grab another bbc amd go to town woth upgrades!!! Then when she drops a valve at 7800 rpm....your original block is safely tucked away in the corner of your garage...

71VetteLover

I didn't see where he said the #5 exhaust lobe failed both times; just the first time. The break in procedure for flat tappet cams is crucial and the cam manufactures ALWAYS recommend removing the inner spring (not the damper spring) during the 30+ minutes of break in to lessen the load. I run my engines 45 minutes to an hour at 2500 rpm to ensure the maximum amount of oil is being thrown at the lobes.

If it was the #5 exhaust lobe that failed BOTH times I would suspect the #5/#6 journal had been welded at one time and the .015" of rod side clearance wasn't maintained although any good crankshaft grinder would make sure it was the same width.