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I have two radiators from 69s with 350/350 4 speeds.
They look very similar, but the inlet and outlets are a bit different
and fill where the pressure cap is as well. Are either of these stock?
Should I get one of these fixed or move to an aluminum one. The car is pretty much stock.
Hi Glenn,
I believe the copper radiators used in 69 should have the name HARRISON embossed into the side tank.
Those radiators with a fill cap also have FILL^COLD embossed below the name.
Radiators without the fill cap don't have level indicator embossing.
Are you seeing any signs of the embossing on your radiators?
Regards,
Alan
Glenn, in addition to what Alan says, original copper radiators have two to three squares punched out of the top support near the end caps; replacements do not. I cannot see those in these photos.
One of your radiators seems to have the original sides, but may have been re-cored. It is difficult to tell from the pictures.
BTW, if your 'sides' are original, a good radiator tech may be able to restore yours to original appearance using parts he has around the shop - - for a reasonable cost.
I took the leaking radiator in to the shop and they fixed the leak for $45.
Upon closer inspection, it does have the Harrison and the fill line on it.
It has been recored in the past and is significantly thicker than the other radiator from my other 69. This car has A/C while the other does not.
So now I have a new question.
Right now the overflow tube just goes to the ground.
Is there a way to convert it to have an overflow tank/cap
that would allow any coolant overflow to return to the tank
upon cool down?
Is that what the ones with the silver overflow tank did?
"Is that what the ones with the silver overflow tank did?"
The aluminum 'expansion' tank took the place of the end tanks used on the copper radiators. (The aluminum radiator has no end tanks… it's just 'core'.
The aluminum expansion tanks used a 15# cap, as did the cooling systems without expansion tanks.
The 15# cap allows the cooling system to safely operate at a temperature of up to 252 degrees F.
If the temperature of the coolant rises above 252 degrees F the cap can't seal the system and excess coolant is dispersed through the small hose connected to the fill neck of the expansion tank.
The excess coolant is no longer pressurized at that point, so the small dispersal hose doesn't need a clamp on it. (The small hose running from the radiator top to the expansion tank IS pressurized, so uses hose clamps.
Regards,
Alan
Right now the overflow tube just goes to the ground.
Is there a way to convert it to have an overflow tank/cap
that would allow any coolant overflow to return to the tank
upon cool down?
I have the same rad in mine and in the 47 years of driving it, there has never been any overflow come out that tube. Yes, if it overheated, however I have not had that happen yet.
Are you sure you need to add a coolant recovery setup ?
I have the same rad in mine and in the 47 years of driving it, there has never been any overflow come out that tube. Yes, if it overheated, however I have not had that happen yet.
Are you sure you need to add a coolant recovery setup ?
That's and encouraging word. I drive in places where the temps
can easily get over a 100F during the summer. On my other vintage cars I put and overflow tank with a radiator cap that would allow the water to be sucked back in upon cool off.
Maybe I'll wait and see what comes out of the tube
my 69 came with a 350/350 and I added the aluminum expansion tank to the system. The thing you have to do is replace the normal radiator cap on the radiator with a blank cap, there is no spring with a sealing plunger just a cap with a large rubber disk to seal the radiator. In addition you must use the cap intended for the aluminum tank, RC26, on the tank to prevent premature corrosion of the aluminum.
69 radiator questions
