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Thanks in advance. (Edelbrock 2101 Performer)
I've seen a lot of people say to skip the rubber gaskets front and rear and to goop it instead. You agree?
Intake to head gaskets: Leave naked? Use sealer? Use sealer only on the water passages?
25-30 ft/lbs of torque?
Anything to watch out for?
Thanks again.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Sep 14, 2017 at 10:44 AM.
There is a spray can of The Right Stuff you can buy from auto parts places. Its made by no other than Permatex. Its a little pricey but lays down the perfect bead on the china walls. (Its also at Amazon too)
Few mechanics can remember which intake bolts are blind holes, and which go into the water jacket. So. Seal them all. Sure won't hurt anything.
On the gaskets to head, not sure on the spelling but Edelbrock makes Geustichte (what?) sealer that works really well. Only apply to the head-side first, lay in place, put some weight on it, let it set for a few hrs. Then apply more to the intake side when you are ready.
Water passages? Everybody has a personal tatic / product. I like RTV clear.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 15, 2017 at 02:54 PM.
There is a spray can of Great Stuff you can buy from auto parts places. Its made by no other than Permatex. Its a little pricey but lays down the perfect bead on the china walls. (Its also at Amazon too)
Few mechanics can remember which intake bolts are blind holes, and which go into the water jacket. So. Seal them all. Sure won't hurt anything.
On the gaskets to head, not sure on the spelling but Edelbrock makes Geustichte (what?) sealer that works really well. Only apply to the head-side first, lay in place, put some weight on it, let it set for a few hrs. Then apply more to the intake side when you are ready.
Water passages? Everybody has a personal tatic / product. I like RTV clear.
Last edited by carriljc; Sep 14, 2017 at 05:33 PM.
Thanks everyone. I printed out page 4 of that link (the actual instructions) and I wasn't too far off the track at all, considering it's been about thirty years since a bolted an intake to an SBC. Sealing them all to be extra sure. I use RTV hi-temp orange when possible, easier to hide. I'll add a pic to this thread tomorrow once it's on there. All the prep is done now. Going to bed.
-W
There is no provision for a divorced choke on a 2101, you need either a different carburetor, convert the choke if available, or a different intake.
OK we'll stay on this thread after all.
Just FYI there are indeed provisions for a divorced choke on the 2101. In fact, they ship new with the adapter plate to cover the choke tube hole. (It's also sold separately) You need the Edelbrock 9171 choke rod to use with it. I got the rod. But this all assumes you have a 1971 and up choke thermostat. The earlier ones like I have will not fit it, therefore I need to get a new divorced choke thermostat. The Edelbrock 1931 divorced choke kit costs over twice as much as the GM one through Zip.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Sep 15, 2017 at 04:28 PM.
Do you agree? Sure looks the same. And rod attach is in the right spot on the spring.
-W
PS: Also as we can see from the pic, in a perfect world I need a 90 degree 1/2 NPT to 5/8 barb for that heater hose.
My (1966 327) cast iron manifold (that came off) had the fitting out the front right not straight up like the Edelbrock.
Last edited by Clams Canino; Sep 15, 2017 at 04:24 PM.
I use black or clear RTV silicone in a caulk gun......makes for a controllable bead.....
I use a little RTV on bottom of the water ports front and back to hold the gasket in place......
PTFE sealant on the manifold bolts.
I used the orange hi-temp RTV throughout. Just have to drop the dizzy and re-time it today.
Right angle fitting is on order - straight one for now to test it.
Air cleaner clearance issues to follow in another thread soon.
-W
I used the orange hi-temp RTV throughout. Just have to drop the dizzy and re-time it today.
Right angle fitting is on order - straight one for now to test it.
Air cleaner clearance issues to follow in another thread soon.
-W
I thought Permatex High Temp Orange was for such places as exhaust, etc? Not for oily surfaces. IDK.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 16, 2017 at 11:01 AM.
I thought Permatex High Temp Orange was for such places as exhaust, etc? Not for oily surfaces. IDK.
I actually used the "ultra-copper". It presents as orange. My fault for not clarifying on your earlier post. I used it 30 years ago too. No leaks.
No oily surfaces here. Everything was scraped, wiped with carb cleaner on a rag till the rag came up clean, then a final wipe with Brake-Clean.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Sep 16, 2017 at 11:22 AM.
Sorry, I am not clear either. I meant oily surface in the future from the lifter valley, china wall, all around the intake. I have never used "Orange", just black, blue, gray. Before you go too much farther, check the RTV tube label for "use with gas & oil." Not sure.
I've had great success with Red RTV for intake manifold sealing.
Before I found "The Right Stuff" I used it several times for intake manifolds. I like that "Right Stuff" sealer because it dries nice and quick compared to the RTV, and it really does seal quite well.
OK we'll stay on this thread after all.
Just FYI there are indeed provisions for a divorced choke on the 2101. In fact, they ship new with the adapter plate to cover the choke tube hole. (It's also sold separately) You need the Edelbrock 9171 choke rod to use with it. I got the rod. But this all assumes you have a 1971 and up choke thermostat. The earlier ones like I have will not fit it, therefore I need to get a new divorced choke thermostat. The Edelbrock 1931 divorced choke kit costs over twice as much as the GM one through Zip.
-W
No problem. I only corrected it because these threads are "for ever" and I didn't want people rejecting the 2101 outright because of the choke issue.
-W
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Correct intake mounting SOPs?
