I'm going to look at a 71 BB 4 speed, convertible, a/c car this evening. Supposedly all matching number car. What do I look for to know that it's a true BB car? And not a converted sb?

 

Hi ol,
If the car is being described as having it's 'original engine', (is it?), checking the 2 stamps (one from the Tonawanda engine plant, and the second from the plant in St.Louis) will be a good place to start.

Posting a good photo of the pad will get you lots of opinions.

Here's an example of a typical big block engine pad.

Regards,
Alan

The stamp on the left in the photo indicates where the engine was assembled, the date it was assembled, and the 'configuration' it was assembled in.
The stamp on the right indicates the model year and sequence number of the car it was first installed in.

 

Thanks Alan, that's a good starting place. Hopefully I'll have a few pictures later on today. Owner says original, but shows a few things changed. Valve covers and breather. I am more concerned on the big components.

 

Hi ol,
Lots of cars with changed components…. it's generally the stamp pad that tells the tale about the engine itself.

This sounds like a NICE car…. big block, 4-speed, a/c, convertible!!! That checks the right 'boxes' for lots of folks.

Don't forget to check for RUST in the birdcage and frame, BEFORE you fall in love with it!!!!!

I'll be interested to see what you find!
Regards,
Alan

 

Alan, the car was nothing like the ad said. I had talked to the person and he assured me it was all original (29,000 miles) and everything worked. When i got there it was pearl white, wrong engine, not an a/c car, previous damage in front frame area, no trim tag. It was not what i was looking for.
a positive note: the paint looked good. the gentleman was very nice. and it was only 100 miles from home. so it made for a nice sunday afternoon ride.

 

Hi ole,
Your experience is far too typical!
Sellers are really bad at describing what the car they're trying to sell ACTUALLY is.
What $$$ was he asking for it?
Regards,
Alan

 

$25,000

 

Hi,
Not a bad price for a bb, 4-speed, convertible…. but why can't folks tell the truth about what the car is???
Regards,
Alan

 

Not knowing everything is one thing but he was clearly full of chit Id have been super pizzed.....what did he say when you called him on the fact it didnt have air conditioning? Thats like not having 4 wheels! nice guy, sure

Wow

 

I am going to look at a 70 LS5. It sounds like a nice car. But I have my doubts. It is a coupe, LS5, auto, red on black, numbers matching for $28,000. It is supposed to be a very nice driver. It is located 60 miles from my house so no big deal if it is not as advertised.

 

I had a west Texas cowboy give me some advice when I went to buy a roping horse " Forget about the money and just go buy a horse that you love". Good advice.
VERYSOON

 

Great southern advice. What part of west Texas? I have family in Lubbock.

 

What is the best way to check for rust on the birdcage. I know about the issue, but when looking at a car someone else owns I have my concerns.

 

I didn't make a big fuss about. Really wasn't any need to. I had my doubts going down there, but you gotta go look. It does leave a bitter taste when its not as represented (and confirmed in texts)
Hopefully someone will like this car for what it is, and enjoy it.

 

Ask them in advance if they'll remove the kick panels and header trim.
When i have people looking at my car. I have the kick panels off and header and side window trim off.
Good luck

 

Hi bb 427,
For the birdcage:

I would typically begin by looking through the wind-shield at the the parts of the a-pillars that can be seen and at the base of the a-pillars where they join the upper corners of the cowl.

I'd then open the doors and look at the hinge pillars. This area is often very sloppy but I'd look for signs of repaired rust and rust stains.

Next I'd open the door fully so I could get my head in each foot well in order to look up behind the dash pads with a flash light.

Next I'd look up/along each side of the frame rails where you can see the rocker channels. Using a flash light you can get an idea about the channel and the body mounts above it.

If these area look good and I was ACTUALLY becoming interested in the car I'd approach the owner about removing the kick panels (the sill plates need to be removed to do this) and also about removing the 2 small access doors in the front of the rear wheel wells that allow you to see the bottom of the lock pillars and the #3 body mounts.

This is work for the owner…. but is a reason to seriously consider 'walking' if he's reluctant to do it.

You need to be aware of where to look for rust on the frame too.

There's NO reason to buy a rusty car!

Regards,
Alan

The area of the a-pillar and top of the cowl you're trying to see as much of as you can.




The bottom of the hinge pillar and body mount #2 that can be seen when the kick panel is removed.