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Do you have 12v at the BATT terminal?
If so, is there 12v at the TACH terminal?
One way to find out if it's the switch is run a hot wire from the battery to the distributor. That would narrow it down to inside or outside the distributor problem.
One way to find out if it's the switch is run a hot wire from the battery to the distributor. That would narrow it down to inside or outside the distributor problem.
Good way to eliminate existing wiring. Where is the power wiring being fed from now? Believe HEI didn't come about till 1975-ish? So not sure if it's using the old resistor wire or a new IGN wire was ran. HEI needs a solid 12V. Best of luck.
I had problems with my 73 dying out. It ended up being bad connections at the firewall fuse block bulkhead. Terminals were 44 years old and connecting bolt was loose.
Had the same thing happen to me but on a New Mallory Unilite, it was the Module but it was intermittent, hate intermittent argh! $238 towing charge! Now i carry an extra Module.
Definitely have fuel, it's something electrical. Ignition module has been changed, and still won't fire up. Will have to try and figure out where the current is stopping. Thanks for all the comments. I'll post when/if I find the problem.
Ignition switches have one IN terminal but several OUT terminals powered by internal brass contacts and over time those OUT terminal brass contacts get worn to the point where they barely make contact. If your ignition switch is the original you need to replace it based on time/mileage alone. They're only about $15 and readily available. Then take your old switch apart and inspect the internal contacts. If you have a bad one it'll readily show up as it'll be almost black; indicating overheating.
Last edited by 71VetteLover; Sep 21, 2017 at 10:22 AM.