Alternator Housings
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Alternator Housings
I have a '71 LS-5 w/ AC. I bought a replacement alternator for it but ground bolt on the back interferes with the valve cover. I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for the correct alternator. I was thinking I could find a core and just swap the rear housings.
Anyone know what other years or makes might work? Searched ebay and can't find one with the bolt hole in right location.
Any other ideas?
Anyone know what other years or makes might work? Searched ebay and can't find one with the bolt hole in right location.
Any other ideas?
#2
why cannt you return the alternator and get the correct one?
Napa lists them new and remanufactured with either one or two groove pulley with a high of $65.
Napa lists them new and remanufactured with either one or two groove pulley with a high of $65.
#3
Pro
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I have a '71 LS-5 w/ AC. I bought a replacement alternator for it but ground bolt on the back interferes with the valve cover. I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for the correct alternator. I was thinking I could find a core and just swap the rear housings.
Anyone know what other years or makes might work? Searched ebay and can't find one with the bolt hole in right location.
Any other ideas?
Anyone know what other years or makes might work? Searched ebay and can't find one with the bolt hole in right location.
Any other ideas?
It sounds like your replacement alternator wasn't "clocked" the same way your original was. Just pull it apart and rotate the rear housing 90 degrees counterclockwise.
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z28cp (09-21-2017)
#4
Racer
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#7
Race Director
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The mounting ears are on the front cover so I don't see why you can't clock it to rotate the back cover.
At any rate, to clock it you rotate only the front case half around the stator and rear case half. NEVER try to rotate only the rear case half because you'll just damage the internal wires between the stator and the rectifier.
At any rate, to clock it you rotate only the front case half around the stator and rear case half. NEVER try to rotate only the rear case half because you'll just damage the internal wires between the stator and the rectifier.
#9
Red Road Warrior
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
How about getting a little longer V Belt? That will move the alternator away from the valve cover towards the fender. That is, if there is enough room to do so.
#10
Racer
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#12
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#16
Drifting
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2018 C3 of Year Finalist
Nope,on a big block the rear housing should be clocked at 12 o'clock
The plug should be at 12 o'clock.pull the pulley,remove the 4screws,
Pull the housing slightly,I said slightly keeping the armature in the rear
Housing and turn a quarter of a turn if you pull it to far ,PM me. Not hard to do.
The plug should be at 12 o'clock.pull the pulley,remove the 4screws,
Pull the housing slightly,I said slightly keeping the armature in the rear
Housing and turn a quarter of a turn if you pull it to far ,PM me. Not hard to do.
#18
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Don't remove the pulley. Stand the alternator on the pulley end and push the front housing down so you can rotate it. That way, the rear housing is sitting on the armature shaft so gravity keeps those 2 parts together and the slip rings don't get pulled out of the brushes.
#19
Pro
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Don't remove the pulley. Stand the alternator on the pulley end and push the front housing down so you can rotate it. That way, the rear housing is sitting on the armature shaft so gravity keeps those 2 parts together and the slip rings don't get pulled out of the brushes.
Heck it only takes me 15 seconds to stuff the two brushes back into the brush holder then stick a toothpick thru it to retain the brushes. Big whoopee.