roller cam question. Solid or hydraulic?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
roller cam question. Solid or hydraulic?
With winter approaching in northern VA, I'm trying to decide what to do to spend even more $$$ on my 68 convert with NOM 454. Last winter I installed aluminum heads, different intake and a Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam. I am thinking about putting a roller cam in but do not know whether I want solid or hydraulic. I don't mind doing periodic valve lifter clearance adjustments. I do not race the car but would like the extra power from the solid lifters. For those who have solid roller cams, is there any downside I should be aware of? Most of the high performance cars I previously drove had solid lifters, but the flat tappet version. The car currently has flat top pistons with 8:1 CR. I will also probably add domed top pistons to get the CR up to approx. 10:1. Car has 4 speed and 3.36 rear axle. Comments are appreciated. RA
Pro
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 516
Likes: 72
From: Modesto California
With winter approaching in northern VA, I'm trying to decide what to do to spend even more $$$ on my 68 convert with NOM 454. Last winter I installed aluminum heads, different intake and a Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam. I am thinking about putting a roller cam in but do not know whether I want solid or hydraulic. I don't mind doing periodic valve lifter clearance adjustments. I do not race the car but would like the extra power from the solid lifters. For those who have solid roller cams, is there any downside I should be aware of? Most of the high performance cars I previously drove had solid lifters, but the flat tappet version. The car currently has flat top pistons with 8:1 CR. I will also probably add domed top pistons to get the CR up to approx. 10:1. Car has 4 speed and 3.36 rear axle. Comments are appreciated. RA
I see no reason to ever use a solid roller cam unless you're earning your living drag or track racing at an extremely high rpm.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,240
Likes: 1,013
From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
Nothing wrong with a solid roller at all. My advice would be to get a real street profile that doesn’t need crazy high spring pressures. Use a good lifter with oiling, perhaps one of the new bushing lifters. I would also check the lifter bore clearances as long as you have it somewhat apart. Seems as if a lot of the aftermarket lifters run on the small side with the exception of the Morels. I am running a solid roller with the Morel bushing lifters. No time on it yet but Dyno time. Oh and make sure you get it on a Billet core. I called Mike Jones to get a perfect cam for my combo. Told him what I wanted and the Dyno time told me he hit it right on the nose. Straub technologies is another good guy to call for a cam and has good pricing on the Morel lifters. Good luck!
Last edited by 69ttop502; Oct 13, 2017 at 06:36 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 43,136
Likes: 155
From: Thomson Georgia
Nothing wrong with a solid roller at all. My advice would be to get a real street profile that doesn’t need crazy high spring pressures. Use a good lifter with oiling, perhaps one of the new bushing lifters. I would also check the lifter bore clearances as long as you have it somewhat apart. Seems as if a lot of the aftermarket lifters run on the small side with the exception of the Morels. I am running a solid roller with the Morel bushing lifters. No time on it yet but Dyno time. Oh and make sure you get it on a Billet core. I called Mike Jones to get a perfect cam for my combo. Told him what I wanted and the Dyno time told me he hit it right on the nose. Straub technologies is another good guy to call for a cam and has good pricing on the Morel lifters. Good luck!
Great advice........(I think he knows a Bit)
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
x2 also prefer a solid that doesnt have crazy ramps too much lift, stable at rpm its just not worth chasing that 5-10 and parts live
OP could get what he wants wiht a HR but if hes got to have that sound-
Or what about a compromise, Rhoads?
NEver tried their roller version but loved their FT lifters they tamed a big cam but honestly ran and sounded like a solid. Close anyways.
THis had a 460 with a pretty rumpity cam when cold, once it warmed up could hardly tell it had a cam at all but would run up hard past 6k and had that "sound" that would bounce offf the car next to ya. Very stealthy! Put many thousands of miles never a problem
OP could get what he wants wiht a HR but if hes got to have that sound-
Or what about a compromise, Rhoads?
NEver tried their roller version but loved their FT lifters they tamed a big cam but honestly ran and sounded like a solid. Close anyways.
THis had a 460 with a pretty rumpity cam when cold, once it warmed up could hardly tell it had a cam at all but would run up hard past 6k and had that "sound" that would bounce offf the car next to ya. Very stealthy! Put many thousands of miles never a problem
Last edited by cv67; Oct 13, 2017 at 10:43 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I'm running a solid roller too. Did a "back-half" cam so any distributor gear will work. Morel lifters. Not stupid high lift or spring rates and 3/8 pushrods. Good so far.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Syracuse NY
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I think you need to step back and take a look at 100ft. IMHO always choose the cam last to match your c.r. - not pistons or heads for your cam. Yes you should have an idea of the size of cam to match your trans/gearing and install pistons to support that cam. But unless you have custom pistons and custom size head chambers you will buy items from on the mfr's shelf that only get you close. Once you measure all your volumes with liquid you can nail your static c.r. and choose a better cam to match. Also the price of custom grinds is very reasonable nowadays adding only like $30 to the cost.
Anyways for your low 8:1 c.r. you should use a short cam (in duration) and may have a difficult time to find a roller cam hyd or solid short enough to work well with that c.r.. Honestly I didn't understand BB cams well enough to give you a recommendation here but recommend you contact a cam mfr (or several) for comparisons.
Good luck.
Anyways for your low 8:1 c.r. you should use a short cam (in duration) and may have a difficult time to find a roller cam hyd or solid short enough to work well with that c.r.. Honestly I didn't understand BB cams well enough to give you a recommendation here but recommend you contact a cam mfr (or several) for comparisons.
Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
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From: Tampa Bay FL
With winter approaching in northern VA, I'm trying to decide what to do to spend even more $$$ on my 68 convert with NOM 454. Last winter I installed aluminum heads, different intake and a Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam. I am thinking about putting a roller cam in but do not know whether I want solid or hydraulic. I don't mind doing periodic valve lifter clearance adjustments. I do not race the car but would like the extra power from the solid lifters. For those who have solid roller cams, is there any downside I should be aware of? Most of the high performance cars I previously drove had solid lifters, but the flat tappet version. The car currently has flat top pistons with 8:1 CR. I will also probably add domed top pistons to get the CR up to approx. 10:1. Car has 4 speed and 3.36 rear axle. Comments are appreciated. RA