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I have always heard to use regular GM Chassis Lube in my steering box, well the other day I pulled the fill bolt out and tried to check how full it was. I wasn't able to tell, now the service manual says to use 90w gear lube in it, so I thought I'd top it off with that (instead of grease) so I started pumping in the lube, after about a half a pint, I started wondering where it was all going, finally it filled up and started running out of the other hole. I screwed in both of the screws and called it good. The next morning I found a puddle about 18" wide under the steering box, with the 90w dripping out.
It looks like my steering box bottom seal is completely gone, how hard is it to replace? I don't relish breaking into it and messing something up, so maybe I should just pump it full of grease and call it good?
The proper lube for your steering box is a heavy, grease-like lube sold by GM. It is the proper stuff, not 90W since it WILL run out, like you observed. Been there, done that! :eek: Notice I said "proper lube"? It is what GM calls for but I have used chassis grease for 10 years without any difficulty.
Gary
There was a thread on this about last May. I checked my steering box and it was virtually dry. What little I could pluck out with a screwdriver was the consistency of ear-wax. The recommendation from a Forum member was a 25:75 mix of Mobil 1 synthetic oil to chassis lube. I tried it. And it seems to have worked; I have had an uneventful summer. There was a little sweat on top of the box for several weeks but it is long gone.
But do not overfill: fill from the top hole until you see the mix at the lower. That allows room for heat expansion.
Replacing the seal should not be a big deal unless the output shaft bearing is bad. You'll need to get a pittman arm puller, pull the arm, pry out the old seal (be careful not to score the shaft), and pop in the new seal. I read a recent thread where the best lube for the job is that red oil used in engine assembly. The red oil is very heavy, definately heavier than 90W, but still lighter than grease. I am sure that it too will leak out if you have a bad seal. :smash:
Smokehouse,
I tried 90wt. it always leaked past the seal, refilled it with synthetic chassis grease and NO more leaks!! I did NOT change the seal.
...redvetracr
Thanks guys, I checked with the local Chevy dealer's parts desk and they couldn't find a specific lube for steering boxes. The Chassis Service Manual states.."Whenever required, additions should be made using water resistant EP chassis lubricant." So I guess I'll use some synthetic marine chassis lubricant that I have. I bought it to use on poly bushings to help prevent squeaks, I never used it because I got some "Whale Snot" poly bushing lube from Energy Suspension.
Smoke, here's a trick I borrowed from the local Corvette shop that's been there since the 60's. He takes chassis grease or wheel bearing grease and cuts it with 90 wgt gear oil. The grease by itself won't flow at all so it gets voids and the 90 weight by itself will run out. I don't think he's got a specific mix, seems like he was just adding and stirring until the stuff wouldn't quite stay in a congealed state. Ideally it needs to be thinned just enough to flow. I don't see why cutting it with any oil that mixes well with the grease wouldn't do just as well, it'd just cut it quicker.