When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am reinstalling the half shafts after putting in new seals. My manual says to install each axle clocked 90 degrees apart from the other side. Why is this? Is it critical? It seems to me that relative 'clocking' of one axle to the other is constantly changing every time I turn a corner so that 90 degrees is not gonna last more than a few miles, or maybe even a few feet! 🤔
I think they wrote it as a joke just to see if anyone was actually reading the manual. Or it was beer Friday, or Monday.
The axles never stay in the same relative position after the first 20 feet. Or less.
I am reinstalling the half shafts after putting in new seals. My manual says to install each axle clocked 90 degrees apart from the other side. Why is this? Is it critical? It seems to me that relative 'clocking' of one axle to the other is constantly changing every time I turn a corner so that 90 degrees is not gonna last more than a few miles, or maybe even a few feet! 🤔
Which manual said to "clock" them 90 degrees apart? You are right as every time you turn a corner the "clocking" changes. I have a feeling the manual is referring to something else OR whoever wrote the manual was high on drugs.
Which manual said to "clock" them 90 degrees apart? You are right as every time you turn a corner the "clocking" changes. I have a feeling the manual is referring to something else OR whoever wrote the manual was high on drugs.
The 1969 Chassis Service Manual also says it so I would imagine it wasn't removed. Kind of a dumb moment that was never changed I guess...
The half shafts mate to the diffy output yokes wherever they are. I suppose you could change their position, but don't know why you would need to.
I'd guess that the GM manuals probably gave that info since 1963 when the independent rear suspension was introduced in the Corvette. No need to change it since "it's always been that way".
In my case it’s a Chilton manual. Since the GM says it too I guess it was a early days thing when somebody thought it to be important.
Well thanks for the input. Onward we go!
Another thing to consider with written procedures is a lot of the older manuals recommended splitting the diff from the rear cover and removing it. While that can be done it is not the best or safest way to remove vette differential from a c2 or c3. The manuals also show plenty of great tools and tooling to get the rebuilding of drivetrain units done neat and fast, try to find them today.
Your axles, if stock built, should have a good spring load on them so moving by hand would be a little exercise. A correctly tuned posi will not have that loading and can easily be rotated, but again not necessary.
Another thing to consider with written procedures is a lot of the older manuals recommended splitting the diff from the rear cover and removing it. While that can be done it is not the best or safest way to remove vette differential from a c2 or c3. The manuals also show plenty of great tools and tooling to get the rebuilding of drivetrain units done neat and fast, try to find them today.
Your axles, if stock built, should have a good spring load on them so moving by hand would be a little exercise. A correctly tuned posi will not have that loading and can easily be rotated, but again not necessary.