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The traction bar I made came out perfect. I welded a bung in the frame to bolt to and made tabs and welded on the spring mount plate. I got the ends and the tube from Speedway Motors. I used the 1/2" size ends.
Nice - I am still learning C3 suspension and about to go through the back half this winter. So, this traction bar holds the rear spring perch stationary and will it help plant tires, or eliminate wheel hop, or both? I have a 1970 and have recently warmed the motor. Will regear to 3.70 this winter. Are these cars prone to wheel hop like the conventional Camaro and Nova set-ups?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Nice work but I think the center carrier remains fairly planted on launch. It does have 2 huge cushions on the ends of the carrier cross piece (or whatever it's called) and I don't expect much travel from those.
It's the trailing arms that need to be stabilized. Most aftermarket fixes are links from the center carrier to the trailing arms at the axle housings. They seem to mostly add friction or dampening to the trailing arms.
But now you have a good mount for a driveshaft loop.
From talking with some companies that know much more about this stuff than I do. I do know...or at least have been told that the rubber bushing at the ends of the differential crossmember do move and that is why the one type of reinforcement plates are used to strengthen this area where the crossmember bolts to the frame. And some companies offer these bushings much stronger than rubber design.
What you've done will hold things steady. There was another design that acted like a slapper bar years ago.....which meant things HAD to move for it to work. Wasn't too enthused with the design.
From talking with some companies that know much more about this stuff than I do. I do know...or at least have been told that the rubber bushing at the ends of the differential crossmember do move and that is why the one type of reinforcement plates are used to strengthen this area where the crossmember bolts to the frame. And some companies offer these bushings much stronger than rubber design.
DUB
Vansteel just came out with this- PLUS it raises up the Diff w/ having to cut up the mount.
I raised the differential and eliminated all the bushings. There are quarter inch plates where the bushings were. The front diff mount is also mounted solid. I also solid welded the frame and gusseted several areas.
I believe there is some is still some flex in the rear section of the frame that this bar will help alleviate. If you look at the mounting points, this bar gives the frame triangulation in 3 different planes now.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I don't know how to say this w/o busting someone's bubble and I don't want to as a lot of good work and effort went into that bar. As far as I can imagine that bar will prevent the carrier from rolling or as in a straight axle "wrap up" with traction applied. But nothing vertical from what I can imagine. More so with metal plates replacing the rubber bushings. And with the separate axles of the IRS the "wrap-up" effect mostly eliminated.
But with only two bolts you can easily try it on then remove it. Looks to me a good platform to mount a driveshaft safety loop or even 2.
I don't know how to say this w/o busting someone's bubble and I don't want to as a lot of good work and effort went into that bar. As far as I can imagine that bar will prevent the carrier from rolling or as in a straight axle "wrap up" with traction applied. But nothing vertical from what I can imagine. More so with metal plates replacing the rubber bushings. And with the separate axles of the IRS the "wrap-up" effect mostly eliminated.
But with only two bolts you can easily try it on then remove it. Looks to me a good platform to mount a driveshaft safety loop or even 2.
Not bursting any bubbles. I posted here for discussion, so all is good.
Because the forward mounting point of the traction bar is lower and forward of the front diff mount, for the rear of the frame and differential to move up vertically it would have to stretch the traction bar. Conversely, for the frame and diff to move down the bar would have to be compressed.
Mike
Last edited by v2racing; Oct 23, 2017 at 12:31 PM.
I get the principle...but I am just not completely onboard with this kit attaching to the steel plate for the rear spring...which is held on by four bolts as we all know..and I have concerns about those four bolts being 'all that'.
I know I am more than likely over thinking it...but that is part of my job at my shop.
I read that you have changed many things dealing with your rear differential which I know DOES change things...so you set-up is not factory....which does help out...I guess. but those four bolts still give me concern due to going into cast iron and them being grade 8 bolts.
Still I am impressed in what you are doing and keep up the good work.
From talking with some companies that know much more about this stuff than I do. I do know...or at least have been told that the rubber bushing at the ends of the differential crossmember do move and that is why the one type of reinforcement plates are used to strengthen this area where the crossmember bolts to the frame. And some companies offer these bushings much stronger than rubber design.
DUB
Originally Posted by Richard454
Vansteel just came out with this- PLUS it raises up the Diff w/ having to cut up the mount.
I agree that the harder you corner the more the rubber factory bushings allow the differential to move. This can lead to unwanted geometry changes in a corner since the pivot points for the rear suspension are moving relative to one another.
Wish Vansteel had that kit when I did my bushings. I ended up fabricating poly bushings for my car while I was moving the differential up for better geometry. I also added two more brackets with poly bushings from the differential x-member back to the frame x-member just aft of it, so I have 5 polyurethane mounts to keep the diff x-member from moving.
I have one of the vintage traction bars somewhere in the garage! It had a flat four bolt plate for the diff and then a square tube bar that came forward to where you modded the frame for a single bolt!
I weld my crossmembers solid and I clamp my rear spring.
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Made my new traction bar.
