Lock knob
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
Posts: 6,902
Received 2,127 Likes
on
1,634 Posts
And, not for nothin'.
See how that handle left side is angled different than the piece that is labeled unlock? I saw this a on a YouTube video today by CorvetteBen. That handle goes on the passenger side and the flag button has been glued up side down. The driver side handle will mate up to that angle better. Common error according to the video on restoring C3s.
But IDK about the lock button.
See how that handle left side is angled different than the piece that is labeled unlock? I saw this a on a YouTube video today by CorvetteBen. That handle goes on the passenger side and the flag button has been glued up side down. The driver side handle will mate up to that angle better. Common error according to the video on restoring C3s.
But IDK about the lock button.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 10-27-2017 at 06:33 PM.
#4
Safety Car
In your pic, the geared lock shaft doesn't appear to be far enough out of of the door panel to catch the clip on the ****. Look behind the panel for an obstruction and try the **** with the panel off. Then you know if the panel or something behind it is the problem.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
In order Allen no it's good just me messing with it. I'm gonna check out that video as far as I know that's how it's been since new. Maybe not. Ok Grant those are replacement panels I just installed.. They were a mule to install. I wish I would have thought of that when I had it off the second time. I guess 3rd time a charm
Last edited by croaker; 10-27-2017 at 07:55 PM.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
Posts: 6,902
Received 2,127 Likes
on
1,634 Posts
I believe it was a 1974 C3 video, episode # 7 maybe? By CorvetteBen.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 10-27-2017 at 08:09 PM.
#7
Race Director
measure the outside diameter of the handle and the inside of the hole.
some of the door panels have holes that are not the proper diameter and the panel gets stuck between the handle / **** and door. I had this on a friends 69. The hole was too small. I just enlarged it a few 1/16s.
Also some "reproduction" handles / ***** are the wrong size and don't fit into the hole. to fat on the stem....
I would compare the original panel hole to the current hole.
some of the door panels have holes that are not the proper diameter and the panel gets stuck between the handle / **** and door. I had this on a friends 69. The hole was too small. I just enlarged it a few 1/16s.
Also some "reproduction" handles / ***** are the wrong size and don't fit into the hole. to fat on the stem....
I would compare the original panel hole to the current hole.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 10-27-2017 at 09:19 PM. Reason: hate auto spell
#8
Burning Brakes
FWIW, I've seen this before with reproduction door panels. It looks like there's not enough length available on the lock "stem" to allow the ****'s spring clip to engage.
Are your panels the ABS plastic substrate? If so, perhaps you can heat the substrate in the area around the door lock **** opening and "set" it deeper. Another option would be to space the lock/latch assembly out, thereby allowing the lock "stem" to protrude outward more than it currently does. I've seen cases where the latch had to be spaced/shimmed out as much as 3/8". If this much spacing is needed, you'll require longer bolts to fasten the lock/latch assembly to the inner door panel.
Plastic-backed door panels are far less flexible/forgiving than the original fiberboard-backed panels. This may be why you're struggling.
Hope this helps.
Are your panels the ABS plastic substrate? If so, perhaps you can heat the substrate in the area around the door lock **** opening and "set" it deeper. Another option would be to space the lock/latch assembly out, thereby allowing the lock "stem" to protrude outward more than it currently does. I've seen cases where the latch had to be spaced/shimmed out as much as 3/8". If this much spacing is needed, you'll require longer bolts to fasten the lock/latch assembly to the inner door panel.
Plastic-backed door panels are far less flexible/forgiving than the original fiberboard-backed panels. This may be why you're struggling.
Hope this helps.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Red, I'm thinking along those lines. It is the plastic backing. I thought I had it whipped I tried pulling on it but, it wouldn't move. Then it poped off. I had used a board to push it in and , had my wife whack it with a rubber mallet.
#10
Burning Brakes
If that's the case, don't underestimate Alan's point about a mis-formed spring clip. I've had success in putting "spring" back into a clip by pinching the two ends with needle nosed pliers.
Last edited by redrdstr72; 10-28-2017 at 07:23 AM. Reason: Spelling. Stoopid auto-spell correct
#11
Race Director
From looking at the picture you posted, I agree with Alan, the "Jesus" clip is either installed wrong, or is bent/deformed. I also agree with HeadsU.P. that it looks like you may have the wrong handle, installed in that door.
I would start by pulling the clip out of the **** and reinserting it, to see if you can center it in in the ****, like in Alan's picture. If not, I would get a new clip. You should be able to get one from your local auto parts store, in one of the Help packs. Even if the clip fits correctly, you might be better off replacing it, after 45+ years, the clip may have lost it's tension.
Do you have the door pull installed. If not, installing the pull may help pull the panel in some.
I know this won't help with installing the ****, but there is supposed to be a nylon washer, between the lock bezel and the ****.
I would start by pulling the clip out of the **** and reinserting it, to see if you can center it in in the ****, like in Alan's picture. If not, I would get a new clip. You should be able to get one from your local auto parts store, in one of the Help packs. Even if the clip fits correctly, you might be better off replacing it, after 45+ years, the clip may have lost it's tension.
Do you have the door pull installed. If not, installing the pull may help pull the panel in some.
I know this won't help with installing the ****, but there is supposed to be a nylon washer, between the lock bezel and the ****.
#12
Safety Car
The groove on the lock shaft should be even with or just out from the inner round recess of the trim plate. If not, the clip will not go past it to engage in the groove and would make it impossible to remove if it did. It is either the thickness of the new panel or something behind it.
#13
Racer
I had the same problem. I finally gave up and put some 'Plumbers Goop' on the shaft and put the **** on. It never hardens and the **** comes off with pulling pressure and another touch of goop sticks it on again. After the cost of new door panels I was not willing to screw them up cutting, heating or bending them.
#14
Safety Car
Your issue is one that is common with repro door panels. I have had some luck with using a silicone-based lubricant on the shaft and on the ****. And then whacking it with a rubber mallet.