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Wow! That's awesome for a 69 427 SB! Excellent weight distribution for a BB car no less with 49.4 Front and 50.6% Rear weight distribution. I see in your signature that you have:
Other goodies:
T&D shaft rockers
4.11 Rear , Art Carr 10" 2900 RPM stall
Wilwood brakes (Dyna-Lite calipers)
380 LB. VBP composite rear spring
What other weight saving options do you have besides the AFR aluminum heads? I assume your block is cast iron? My engine has JE forged racing pistons as well with a compression of 10.2:1. I can run 89 octane with zero detonation with the aluminum AFR's...
My 78 L-82 355 with AFR aluminum heads, Dewitts aluminum radiator, Stewarts aluminum water pump, L-82 aluminum intake, no emissions gear at all, no AC compressor, and 360 composite spring in the rear is MUCH lighter than the stock OEM 78 L-82 but have never weight the car. I am sure it is not 3119 lbs but I bet my weight distribution being a small block is around 46-47% front and 53-54% rear...in that ball park since my OEM Stock C3 78 was 48% Front:52% Rear.
I've never weighed it without me in it, but with me in it on stock rally wheels, its 3700-3720lbs depending on the fuel level. I'm 190lbs. So roughly 3500lbs for the car alone...
Also changed to Borgeson steering......8 lbs. lighter than stock.
Now have a 9.5" torque converter, so that saves a few lbs. Also installed a Speed Direct aluminum diff cover.
Last edited by C3 Stroker; Nov 4, 2017 at 06:45 PM.
Reason: Added info
[QUOTE=C3 Stroker;1595901486]Getting some performance upgrades done to my car and the shop weighed it for me......pleasant surprise, lighter than I thought.
3116 LBS.
Your car is nicely balanced front/rear. There is also a cross weight calculation you can do
You're not at an ideal balance there for track or autoX, 54% vs 50% preferred. This is interesting because it gives you an idea
of which side "bites" better.
It's possible to mitigate cross weight by preloading your sway bars but just for grins if nothing else I'd first try to re-estimate the weights with yourself in the driver's seat. That takes some proportioning and wouldn't be that accurate but you could see which way the balance goes, good or bad.
I did this on mine with a couple of sacks of cement in the driver's seat. No reflection there of driver skills of course
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Had my 82 weighed and with a 1/2 tank of gas and me in it was 3550lbs. Not too bad for an over weight late C3. I would love to throw it on individual scales and see how it compares.
I don't remember the exact numbers, but I did weigh them and the aluminum one was 4 lbs. lighter than the stock steel one. I thought it would be even less, but the aluminum was thicker in diameter (3" diam.), therefore larger physically.
More importantly, this is a reduction in rotating weight. I remember magazine chassis dyno tests done on a Dodge R/T many years ago comparing a steel to aluminum driveshaft change yielding a 7 rwhp increase. Every little bit helps.
BTW.....The carbon fiber 1/2 shafts weighed 3 lbs. less each than the stock ones. They are also larger in diameter at 3½".
Last edited by C3 Stroker; Nov 6, 2017 at 04:17 PM.
Reason: Added info
You're not at an ideal balance there for track or autoX, 54% vs 50% preferred. This is interesting because it gives you an idea
of which side "bites" better.
It's possible to mitigate cross weight by preloading your sway bars but just for grins if nothing else I'd first try to re-estimate the weights with yourself in the driver's seat. That takes some proportioning and wouldn't be that accurate but you could see which way the balance goes, good or bad.
I did this on mine with a couple of sacks of cement in the driver's seat. No reflection there of driver skills of course
I don't autoX, but I do drag runs every now and then. I have QA-I adjustable rear shocks which allow me to adjust bite for a perfectly straight holeshot every time.
I've never weighed it without me in it, but with me in it on stock rally wheels, its 3700-3720lbs depending on the fuel level. I'm 190lbs. So roughly 3500lbs for the car alone...
Huge difference for sure.
I also weigh 190 lbs., so that makes it 3306 lbs. with me in it...
BTW, does anyone make the hood you have anymore?......I'd love an L-88 hood with a true 4" high scoop!
I also weigh 190 lbs., so that makes it 3306 lbs. with me in it...
BTW, does anyone make the hood you have anymore?......I'd love an L-88 hood with a true 4" high scoop!
No I don’t think so. Vanacors made this one. They were the only ones that made a hi rise L88 hood. I caught them when they re-opened the business for a few months back in 2010 and I drove down there to get it.
Glad I did...
A good fiberglass guy can certainly make one and raise the center bubble, but to make the raised front section so it’s in factory proportion to the bubble would be tough.
No options out there besides cowl hoods unfortunately.
I heard the midengine Corvette will be about 100 pounds lighter than the c7 Corvette that GM is extensively trying to reduce weight in a well thought up way and this would bring the 6.2 liter base model down to 3250lbs the 5.5 liter motor will be smaller liter real race engine more than 50 pounds lighter the 5.5 liter car will be lighter like the V8 equivalent of the gt3 991 or gt3 rs991 car which is as light as 3130 pounds I am estimating the 5.5 liter midengine Corvette will be as light as 3088 pounds race bred a track car for the street they may call it the Corvette Daytona edition or Zora Daytona, or an LM edition or both. 9 generation demand for a N/A 7 liter version may return in quad cam 32 valve form would b an amazing time. I sound d like a profit Ha ha.
The C7’s are quite a bit heavy and significantly heavier than the C6 ^^^ unfortunately.
my 2010 C6Z06 2LZ is approximately 3,100 lbs which is quite a bit lighter than any of the C7’s. I wish they had upped the HP on the C7 Z06/ZR1 and had hit a target weight of 3,000 lbs. In my opinion, the C7 is too heavy by about 500lbs which is a lot of weight....
That's awesome.
The last time I weighed mine I was pleasantly surprise to be under 3000lbs. I came in at 2997 lbs
I did start with a light car though. Convertible at 3,216 lb shipping weight.
No power anything
Aluminum rad, water pump, intake and heads
Composite spring
Spare tire carrier removed.
Offset trailing arms that I weighed and they are lighter than stock. Can't remember the numbers, sorry.
I hope to shave of a few more pounds with my Fiero seat project.
Edit - forgot to mention my aluminum flywheel.
Last edited by theandies; May 31, 2018 at 02:04 PM.
Ideal weight for drag racing and road racing àre in a car to car basis according to weight transfer
Road racing with slicks and high tq brakes you want 40 % ft and 60 % rear in something like our corvette that can achieve over 1 g braking. Any thing near 50 50 is an old stupid myth. Why do you think the 911 Porsches have been so successful at road racing since the 60's with the rear engine and heavy rear weight bias? Heavy front or even 50/50 will cause the rear tires to lock up during maximum braking do to weight transfer. Saying that some percentage is perfect is only for one application. The higher the hp and weight xfer the more bias you need on the rear
Drag racing you want to carry the front tires just off the ground using wheely bars to keep it from getting too high. 100% on the rear without crushing weight on the bars. Non wheely bar car needs front weight to ensure that it doesn't get to high and of course you adjust side to side rear slick air pressure to make it go straight
I don't remember the exact numbers, but I did weigh them and the aluminum one was 4 lbs. lighter than the stock steel one. I thought it would be even less, but the aluminum was thicker in diameter (3" diam.), therefore larger physically.
More importantly, this is a reduction in rotating weight. I remember magazine chassis dyno tests done on a Dodge R/T many years ago comparing a steel to aluminum driveshaft change yielding a 7 rwhp increase. Every little bit helps.
BTW.....The carbon fiber 1/2 shafts weighed 3 lbs. less each than the stock ones. They are also larger in diameter at 3½".
Rotating weight has some dynamics like the distance from the centerline. So a lighter weight larger diameter is worse than a heavy small diameter. The dodge R/T also has a drive shaft 3 times as long as a c3 vette.
So you really want a small 6.125 light weight damper, light weight crank with knife edge or pendulum cut, 154 tooth light weight flywheel and PP, or in the case of an automatic a smaller diameter light weight TC, and light weight wheels and tires.
When I had an automatic and my 427 Motown SBC. I used the 9.5 inch 3800 stall with anti ballooning plate. very light in comparison to 10 & 11 inch. When I first installed the 5 speed I used a billet steel 22 pound SFI and later switched to a 11.5 pound aluminum. Weld drag racing 10X15's with goodyear 10X28 slicks
Weigh In
