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Need Battery Drain Experience '71 with A/C

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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 08:34 PM
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Default Need Parasitic Battery Drain Experience for '71 era Vette

I've read most of the posts dealing with battery drains but I just would like to know where people have found their drain on "71 era vettes with A/C. I've owned this '71 convertible for 42 years. It's completely stock, no aftermarket anything except the clock has been converted to quartz 6 years ago. It does not have electric windows. I measure .37 amp drain with two different multimeters and a test light lights when placed between the + terminal and + battery cable. Measures 2.3 amp drain when courtesy lights are on. I have: removed all fuses, disconnected antidieseling and blocking relay, disconnected alternator, TCS, A/C compressor, horn/buzzer relay, heater fan relay, and turned wiper override switch off and on, and no change in .37 amp drain. I'd just like to know where guys have found their battery drains before and maybe I can continue with those suggestions before I tear up the car anymore. Thanks so much for your help !!!!

Last edited by jacgillam; Nov 5, 2017 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 11:43 AM
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Default "Hot" side from battery goes to 4 locations first

I've followed the electrical schematic and found that the "hot" side of the battery goes to 4 places first; The ammeter, the horn/door buzzer relay, the alternator, and the solenoid on the starter. So since I've disconnected the alternator and the horn relay already, the next step is to disconnect the solenoid and see if that eliminates the .37amp drain. I'll keep posting my results.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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Check the middle compartment behind the seats. It has its own little light w/ switch.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 12:09 PM
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Yea, I checked that first. Since I've had the car so long I usually know all of the little gremlins in the car that ruin crusin' plans like that glove box light so that's the first thing I went to. It's also on the same circuit as the courtesy lamps so when I removed the courtesy lamp fuse that should have stopped the drain but it didn't. Thanks for the feedback!!

Last edited by jacgillam; Nov 6, 2017 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 12:17 PM
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What i did was get a test light, disconect the neg cable from the battery, with the doors closed touch the test light to the neg cable on one side and the neg posy on the battery with the other and start by pulling one fuse at a time, when the light goes out you found what circuit is causing the drain, now the fun begins to find out why
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 12:59 PM
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Couple questions back to you. Does a '71 have a spare tire carrier lamp? Does it have the dome light delay timer when you close the doors? And does a '71 have the alarm button / hood switch located on passenger side by the firewall?

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 6, 2017 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Couple questions back to you. Does a '71 have a spare tire carrier lamp? Does it have the dome light delay timer when you close the doors? And does a '71 have the alarm button / hood switch located on passenger side by the firewall?
No, it doesn't have any of that, no courtesy lamp delay, no alarm system and no spare tire lamp under the car. And like I said, I've removed ALL of the fuses and the drain doesn't change. Thanks for the response and trying to help though.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by blue by you
What i did was get a test light, disconect the neg cable from the battery, with the doors closed touch the test light to the neg cable on one side and the neg posy on the battery with the other and start by pulling one fuse at a time, when the light goes out you found what circuit is causing the drain, now the fun begins to find out why
Yea, I did this only backwards. I had my multimeter hooked up and I was going to remove ALL
of the fuses and replace them one at a time to find which circuit had the drain but when I removed all of the fuses, the drain didn't change So the drain is not in a fused circuit that is fused under the dash. Thanks for trying to help though.
I'm going to get under my car and disconnect the starter solenoid wires next.

Last edited by jacgillam; Nov 6, 2017 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:26 PM
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the .37 number is definitely amps not milliamp?
when you pulled all the fuses, you looked at the clock and it was no longer moving?
I know you say everything is stock, just to clarify, you have the stock radio?
no aftermarket alarm system?
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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Why are you worried about such a small draw? 370 milliamps is like a 4 watt bulb? Sure there is not a bulb on when you are measuring?
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:54 PM
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this chart shows milliamp draw on modern cars that will kill batteries over a month or more so 370 is a pretty big draw and might kill a battery in a week or so

http://www.flashoffroad.com/electric...rrentdrain.pdf
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
the .37 number is definitely amps not milliamp?
when you pulled all the fuses, you looked at the clock and it was no longer moving?
I know you say everything is stock, just to clarify, you have the stock radio?
no aftermarket alarm system?
Yep stock radio, clock quit moving after all fuses pulled. BUT HERE"S AN UPDATE ON THE PROGRESS; Since battery cables go to only 4 places first (starter solenoid, horn relay/buzzer, ammeter and alternator) and since I've taken out all fuses and disconnected horn relay and alternator I focused on the battery to starter cables. Started with .37amp or 370 milliamp drain, disconnected #2 starter cable and #12 starter wire = no drain, clamped #2 cable and #12 wire back together away from the starter = .016amp or 16 milliamp drain, much better, problem is in solenoid area because not much drain downstream from solenoid. Repositioned #2 & #12 cable and wire away from starter case and reconnected to starter = 16 milliamp drain!!! PROBLEM SOLVED??? Is 16 milliamp drain acceptable? We'll see if car starts tomorrow. Moral of the story so far: 46 year old frayed and corroded cables and wires can leak electrons if they are close to a ground, they don't necessarily have to spark and blow fuses to be partially grounded. I'll keep you posted on the results. Thanks to everyone who tried to help so far. Love this site!!!

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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
this chart shows milliamp draw on modern cars that will kill batteries over a month or more so 370 is a pretty big draw and might kill a battery in a week or so

http://www.flashoffroad.com/electric...rrentdrain.pdf
Wow, nice chart, all I've got is a quartz clock so even with my final result of 16 milliamp draw I'm still double what I should be. I've always suspected those antidiesel relays because even with the car ignition off and battery disconnected, when you reconnect the battery cables you can hear that relay click, I know it has a transistor, some resistors and a capacitor in it, so I'm wondering if it draws that remaining 9 ma???
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
this chart shows milliamp draw on modern cars that will kill batteries over a month or more so 370 is a pretty big draw and might kill a battery in a week or so

http://www.flashoffroad.com/electric...rrentdrain.pdf
###

Last edited by jacgillam; Nov 6, 2017 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2017 | 07:27 PM
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Default Success !!!!

Success !!!!! (so far) Car starts after 24 hours with lots of pep in battery!
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