http://https://youtu.be/8I8XEX-m-Z8
hi everyone have problems with my vet
Must listen to th vid problem im having is when cold or in the mornings will run fine and smooth but pnce in a while after heating up will start to pop and sputter only while driving or while pressing the gas will loose power and fill like it get retarded and wont accerlate i recently changed plugs wires cap and rotor also air cleaners has a 85 fuel pump and new fuelfilter iac tps coolant temp and o2 sensors less then a year old also has a rebuilt ecm with hypertech chip coming to the end with this setup might engine swap it soon to a 327 carb engine

 

The 25 micron fuel filter that is mounted on the passenger side frame rail must be replaced every 25,000 miles because they plug easily.

 

Another vid fuel filter under 1000 miles someone said could be the hei module

 

A common problem with the 1982 and 1984 Crossfire induction systems is hesitation due to the two throttle bodies opening at slightly different rates. There are a lot of articles available on how to balance the throttle bodies, and I recommend buying actual manometers (about $12 each) rather than rigging up a water manometer. Manometers measure very slight vacuum changes, far more accurate than a typical vacuum gauge.

Even if you get the throttle plates balanced, another problem is common. The throttle bodies are made from a cheap base metal that wears over time. The throttle shafts go through the throttle base and have the butterfly valves on them. If these shafts are able to move around a bit, because they've worn the surrounding metal over time, a vacuum leak is created. If you have manometers hooked up and have the throttle bodies balanced, at idle simply grabbing and moving the throttle bracket can tell if this is a problem. If the manometers jump around a bit, the cure is to sleeve the throttle shafts with bearings.

There is a website that spells all this out in great detail. And also provides better hinges for Collector's Edition hatches that move back and don't seal properly due to the cheap metal the original hinges were made from.

If you go to this site, you'll have plenty of detail about dealing with both the crossfire problems, balancing, and hinges, if you have a CE.

Also, try to get the original PROM and dump the Hypertech aftermarket chip. I had a CE and did that, and it made a noticable difference. The PROM has volumetric efficiency tables in it, done by GM for that particular engine and car, to maximize efficiency while meeting emissions requirements. They did all the work and got it right. Hypertech 'upgrades' are nothing of the sort as far as I am concerned. Get the right PROM for your car. A reputable Corvette shop should be able to help.

I would not change a Crossfire to a carb personally. If you get it working correctly, the Crossfire is a very good system. I averaged over 20MPG with my 82 CE and it performed well once I got all the issues addressed.

Good luck, if you get it fixed you'll find it really is a good system.

 

And the website is

http://www.thecubestudio.com/Crossfi...estoration.htm

 

I'm sure I have over 100,000 on my fuel filter and notice no bogging, etc. Maybe will change anyway. Just need to remember to open gas tank cap first to release pressure to keep it from running out all over the place.

 

You think since its later in the day and had pressure in the gas tank it could be making it act up never heard of opeing the gas cap before driving u think the igintion module could be still good then

 

How many miles? Have you ever replaced the injectors??

 

Sorry to see that you are having issues with your 82. Does it ever set a CEL? If so, what is/are the code(s)? If it is not setting a CEL, it is a mechanical issue or something that the ECM is not monitoring or is still happy with.

If your TBs were out of balance that much you would notice it when cold as well as hot. Do you know what your fuel pressure is right now? If not, check it and ensure it is set to 13psi, that should be plenty of fuel to feed a stock CF.

Also, check your TPS sensor for correct setting at .525v or as close as you can get it to that value. Also, check to ensure that the voltage is smooth as you move the wiper lever ever so slightly to WOT. If there is "any" jumpy movement or wild readings, the TPS is bad and I would replace it with a Delco sensor.

Another thing about the TB balance is, if your TBs shafts are rather worn it will not matter per-say how well you balance the TBs and because of that wear as soon as you move the throttle they will become unbalanced again.

If your module in the distributor is bad or flaky, you should see a CEL come on at some point.

Moving to a carb IMO is a bad move. If you are dead set on replacing the CF setup, move to an EFI system which would be a better option. The Holley Sniper is a nice unit from what I have researched, but do your own research first.

Lastly, what was the last thing or things that you did to the motor before having this issue? Did it just happen out of the blue? Good luck with your issue.

 

100% with this.

Hopefully you reply and give us some more detailed information.

Also...due to it not being mentioned...and not knowing if this problem just happened or happened after you did some work on it.

IF you set your timing...you are assuming that the notch in your harmonic balancer is in the correct position in order to set your timing. I ahve seen the outer ring of a harmonic balancer spin off where it needs to be...thus screwing up any attempt to set the timing with a timing light. This is when it must be verified by using #1 cylinder and a piston stop tool and manually turning the engine and making marks on the balancer so you can see actually whee TDC is.

May not be the 'smoking gun' that fixes it...but it can be an integral part of how it is running.

How well does it idle???..and does it seem to always have the same curb idle when you have it in gear or in park when the engine is running???? Or does the idle seem to be whatever it wants to be at times???

And NO exhaust leaks where the exhaust manifold meets up to the cylinder heads.

DUB

 

Jeff car has just under 80k injectors are the factory never replaced
Buccaneer i have no cel but on the scan tool says i have a code 42 the car runs amazing until it acts up then goes to **** but only does it on my way to hm always the tps is under a year old and is set to .52 dont know the fuel pressure but has the 85 pump
Dub car always act up after i would say 15 mins of driving stop and go and timing is set to about 8 btdc i know car runs very rich sparkplugs are very black car idles about 9-1000 rpm
And about 800 in gear dont think im getting a exhaust leak but will double check tomorrow and c if imgettin any vaccum leaks as well

 

Odd you do not get a CEL, but scan tool says code 42 which is an EST issue. The module still could be bad even though you are not getting a CEl, but odd. Another "I gotta ask question"... The CEL light does work, right? Did you perform the troubleshooting on page 6E-46 in the GM service manual to verify that you do or actually don't have an issue there? If you don't have the manual, I highly suggest you get one. Ebay usually has them.

 

Yes i do have a manual and yes the cel works when i remove the wire to do the timing it comes on then when i reconnect it goes away havent done any tests yet

 

I can say that the connector you remove to set your timing. That is a real crappy design...due to it is not sealed up from crap and moisture. GM changed it in later years to a Weatherpac design with the silicone seals to keep that connection clean. I have had to replace many of those connectors due to the problem in that connector.

When you have the scanner connected. When the engine goes into CLOSED LOOP...does it stay in closed loop...or does it go into open loop???

What is your MAP voltage??? I believe it should be around 1.4 volts when running .

Your idle is too high so that is letting me know that you must have a vacuum leak AFTER your IAC's.....OR.... a bad chip...OR and bogus ECM.

Also....it is left unstated that what 'Buccaneer' suggested should be done.

DUB

 

First test the timing without single wire connected getting 8 degrees at idle but jumping around hold idle around 2k getting 10degrees with wire connected holding idle at 2k about 16gedrees but timing is jumping around could it be the module scanner readings
Blm 128
Rpm 925
Iac 59-62
Intergrator 128
Knk retard 0
Loop closed
Map 33-36
Map v 1.35-.53
02 cross 0-10
02 state lean-rich
02 volts .40-.60
Tps .51
Trouble code yea code 42 est error
No vac leaks around pleumn sprayed staring fiulid no change in idle
No cel light on

 

Since idle timing is moved when i reconnected the wire does that mean module is good and why does my toming keep jumping around

 

So, 8* BTDC is your base timing with EST wire disconnected which should be fine. Wondering if you grounded the ALCL when you held it at 2k rpm? The timing should change and is normal. At 10* with EST connected is what the chip is set to in its Main SA table since the ECM is now controlling the timing with EST connected. You should not adjust the distributor with the EST wire connected.

Did you misread the test procedure? My proposal/solution was to use the GM manual to discern if there is an issue or not with the EST circuit, code 42 and then if bad, following the manual to accomplish a fix.

 

Yes after rereading i did it wrong we retry today when i get hm and when i ground the alcl do i leave the single wire connected or it has to be disconnected

 

Ok redid test base timing with est wire connected 8 degrees grounded the the alcl and timing moved to 20degrees so module should be good right

 

Should i change module and coil?