c3 cranks but won't start
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
c3 cranks but won't start
My 1969 350/300 started and ran fine last week. I drove it around the block to warm it up and about a half mile from the house it started dying and seemed as if it was going to stall. I got it home and it died in the driveway. I let it sit a week and now it won't start. It is getting fuel so I tested the coil. Resistance in the secondary circuit is in the acceptable range but the resistance in the primary was around 2 ohms. It should be 0.35 to 0.55. It was a little cooler than the 72 degrees that the manual says you should test it at, maybe 65 degrees, which doesn't seem like enough to matter.
Is 2 ohms enough resistance to keep it from starting? Thanks very much.
Is 2 ohms enough resistance to keep it from starting? Thanks very much.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 211
Likes: 20
From: Raleigh NC
You need compression, close to the correct amount of fuel, and good spark at the correct time and it will start.
I would pull a plug wire, slide the boot back, and position it close to ground while cranking to see if I had a good spark. If you do then forget the coil for now.
I would pull a plug wire, slide the boot back, and position it close to ground while cranking to see if I had a good spark. If you do then forget the coil for now.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
Getting fuel. How do you know? How do you know the liquid you see squirting in the carb burns? It could be old watery gas. Spray a squirt of starting fluid and crank it. Pull the distributor cap. Crank and watch for spark at the points. You see spark there, put a spark plug into a plug wire and crank. Spark at points, no spark at plug, probably coil. No spark at points, pull points, file and regap then check for spark and voltage there.
Last edited by derekderek; Nov 23, 2017 at 05:42 AM.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I tried starting fluid and visually checked that the carburetor is getting gas when you pump the accelerator. It's possible both the gas and starting fluid are bad but doesn't seem likely. I haven't recently filled the tank because I don't drive it a lot and it was running fine before this.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
An inexpensive tool to have in your tool box will let you know if you have a spark or not....and the intensity of the spark also by how the spark looks.
You can also make one out of a good spark plug and a section of wire. Does the same thing if you do not want to spend a few bucks.
And YES...using a screwdriver also works while having someone turn the engine over works..as long as it is a good insulted screwdriver. Not responsible if you shock yourself using this method.....hence..why I have my tool.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
Spot welded....tack welded or silver soldered or brazed...regardless... it is attached so the clip is able to ground it out.
The same would hold true if you stripped off some insulation on a wire and wrap it around the metal portion of the spark plug and grounded it.
Like I wrote..I like this design due to it not having an electrode in the center...when it sparks...it goes to the side on the spark plug and you can really get a good look of the intensity of the spark.
DUB
The same would hold true if you stripped off some insulation on a wire and wrap it around the metal portion of the spark plug and grounded it.
Like I wrote..I like this design due to it not having an electrode in the center...when it sparks...it goes to the side on the spark plug and you can really get a good look of the intensity of the spark.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
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From: SW Florida.
electrical stuff doesn't have to be old to be bad. AND stuff like condensers that have very little market these days can be VERY old even though "brand new".
Last edited by derekderek; Dec 3, 2017 at 02:36 PM.
