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I would contact them both for a complete parts conversion with pedals and crossmember. See what they can do. I think that would be better than buying one part at a time from the vendors.
Hope this helps.
When I did my Tremec swap about three years ago, I bought all the parts one piece at a time thinking I would save a bunch of money. I had fun tracking down all the parts, and I learned a lot in the process, but in the end I think I saved less than $100 over buying a complete conversion kit from one of the suppliers.
Just a quick thought, are there no other gm rwd cars with manual transmissions in the country? Could you find similar to a wrecked 94-97 Camaro Z28 or Firebird Trans am that had a factory 6spd and swap it in?
Or what would it cost to import a used car?
When I was about 19 I converted my '59 Chevrolet Impala from a PowerGlide to a 3-speed manual with a Hurst shifter. It was really fun to be able to manually shift its gears but when I encountered hilly terrain with stop lights and heavy traffic I discovered the downside of manual transmissions. Now that I am 70 years old I would never go back to manual transmissions because automatics are so darned good. And with my TH700R4 and 3.70's I have the best of both worlds; blistering acceleration and low rpm cruising.
Even with my M20 I find myself starting from a stop in 2nd more often than not. I think I'll still put in an M22 just for the cool gearbox noise if nothing else.
You can rebuild your m20 to an m22. Lots cheaper that way
The M-21/Super T-10 close ratio had a 2.43 1 st gear like on my 78 L-82 with the 3.70 ratio:
2.43 x 3.70=8.99 or 9:1 which is pretty heft for a total ratio to get the car moving from a standstill. In fact, I never found with my OEM L-82 that I had to slip the
clutch to get the car moving and never with the 355 L-82 now. I did notice that the gear ratios are too close between shifts as expected and I would prefer the wider ratios of the M-20 if i could. The M-21 1st gear with a 3.70 rear is almost useless in everyday driving due to the steep gear multiplication.
The wide Ratio M-20 came with a 2.64 first gear which would make 1st even more useless with the L-82 3.70 gears:
2.64X3.70=9.77....
However, the wider ratios I would prefer with the L-82
Stock L-48's came only with the wide ratio M-20 with 2.64 1st gear and either a 3.08 rear or 3.36 gears which is the reason for the 2.64 1st gear:
2.64 x 3.08=8.13 which is less the the 1st gear M-21 and the 3.70 gears above^^^
Or 2.64 x 3.36=8.87...again less than the 2.43 and the 3.70 gears.
The M-21 close ratio 2.43 and 3.70 gears results in MORE torque multiplication than the wide ratio and less numerical gears.
Hope that helps!!!!
My problem is that I don’t know what rear end I got. I think 3,36 was standard?Thus I think the 70 ls5 came with different, even with the th400 ? All I can say is that when I’m in 60mph I’m about 1800-1900 rpm with the th400. Th400 ratio is 2,48 1,48 1,00
[QUOTE=Kacyc3;1596265434]Just a quick thought, are there no other gm rwd cars with manual transmissions in the country? Could you find similar to a wrecked 94-97 Camaro Z28 or Firebird Trans am that had a factory 6spd and swap it in?
Or what would it cost to import a used car?[/QUOTE
On no, there’s a lot of American cars over here, we love them but I do not have space for one more to rate apart. I will check with some salvage yards and see what I can find
You really need to know what your rear end gears are before you pick a transmission. Having said that if they are 3.70 or numerically lower I think you'll like the M20 rather than the M21 based on my experience with my 3.70 geared M21.
I'm insanely jealous! I'd trade my C3 for a nice '59 Impala in a heart beat.
Hah how funny! Me and a friend is doing my corvette and his impala 59 coupé parallel. Much convenient when we share garage! Both cars are total tairdowns and Resto modded. Those 59 coupe are expensive as h%\\ over here in Sweden. Almost 60$ for one in “good” condition
You really need to know what your rear end gears are before you pick a transmission. Having said that if they are 3.70 or numerically lower I think you'll like the M20 rather than the M21 based on my experience with my 3.70 geared M21.
Hah how funny! Me and a friend is doing my corvette and his impala 59 coupé parallel. Much convenient when we share garage! Both cars are total tairdowns and Resto modded. Those 59 coupe are expensive as h%\\ over here in Sweden. Almost 60$ for one in “good” condition
Your friend is so lucky! I initially was looking for a '59 or '60 Impala before I bought my C3 but they were just too much money.
So I finally got hold of an M20 included flywheel, bellhousing, clutch & clutch fork for under 700$ and it looks pretty good besides the reverse gear and idler gear. That piece got a real beating !
Never done this before but I look forward to it.
Any tips and tricks is appreciated
If anyone is interested you can follow my restoration/restomod on Instagram. “freddehelaveckan”
I have an M-20 with reverse gears that look identical to yours.
Seems a lot of people are impatient and slam these things into reverse before the car stops moving.
I left mine as-is and I have no issues shifting into reverse properly.
Just my .02
Elm
So I finally got hold of an M20 included flywheel, bellhousing, clutch & clutch fork for under 700$ and it looks pretty good besides the reverse gear and idler gear. That piece got a real beating !
I bet that's what the reverse gear and idler gear look like in my factory 4 speed - I've never been able to master getting it in reverse without grinding lol
When I was looking for a five speed that was one of the key features I was after, a synchronized reverse gear
I bet that's what the reverse gear and idler gear look like in my factory 4 speed - I've never been able to master getting it in reverse without grinding lol
When I was looking for a five speed that was one of the key features I was after, a synchronized reverse gear
I've never understood the need for synchronized reverse.
If the car isn't moving and the clutch is properly disengaged, there should be no grinding as there should be nothing spinning in the trans.
I've never understood the need for synchronized reverse.
If the car isn't moving and the clutch is properly disengaged, there should be no grinding as there should be nothing spinning in the trans.
I don't shift into reverse when the car is moving. As to why it grinds almost every time when I shift into reverse, I don't know.
I don't shift into reverse when the car is moving. As to why it grinds almost every time when I shift into reverse, I don't know.
Sounds like you may have clutch adjustment or bellhousing alignment issues that is causing the input shaft to keep turning with the clutch disengaged.
Under normal circumstances, there should me no grinding if the car is at a complete stop.
Just sayin'
Sounds like you may have clutch adjustment or bellhousing alignment issues that is causing the input shaft to keep turning with the clutch disengaged.
Under normal circumstances, there should me no grinding if the car is at a complete stop.
Just sayin'
Perhaps. I vaguely recall someone telling me it had to do with part of the transmission spinning after it was in a forward gear and the clutch is pressed in. Then when you put it in reverse it grinds. If I remember correctly there's supposed to be some sort of movement you do with the shifter and/or clutch pedal that prevents the grinding when you put move it into reverse from a forward gear.