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Last night I did the bell housing checking. I removed two bolts from the flywheel and attached the magnetic base to the flywheel and it was rock solid. So I did the indicating and it looks like it's about .015 off (TIR) so I am thinking I need the .007 offset dowels. Looks like it needs to come down .007".
As you can see I marked a lot more than 4 spots. Figured more would be better.
From what I can find, it looks like the offset dowels from RobbMc Performance are the ones to get. http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html So I guess I'll have to wait a few days for those, unless someone knows of a place where I can get them local (NE Ohio). Summit has them but none of them look right. The only ones that are .007 offset and .621 diameter are $92!
Well a big box with TREMEC showed up Friday Actually four boxes, five with the drive shaft. DS was shipped from another location. Don't know if I mentioned it but I ordered from Silver Sport Transmission, which has been great so far. Let me tell you, they pack this stuff up real nice. All of the fasteners are individually packaged and labeled - very nice. The cross member looks real nice too. I went ahead and installed the pilot bearing, it was a snug fit but OK. The old brass pilot bushing from the ST10 just sort of fell out! So I am waiting on the offset dowel pins...
jim-81:
I don't mean to steer your thread off topic. But I am curious if you can fit this transmission into a car without a removable crossmember? My other question is why does the bellhousing need to be indexed? Is it because the transmission fits different applications and sometimes doesn't center correctly?
It's possible you can just loosen the 6 mounting bolts and give it a couple of heavy downward whacks with a big rubber mallet because the dowel holes are several thousands larger than the dowels.
Last edited by NeverTooOld; Dec 11, 2017 at 03:09 PM.
It's possible you can just loosen the 6 mounting bolts and give it a couple of heavy downward whacks with a big rubber mallet because the dowel holes are several thousands larger than the dowels.
Please don't.
For warranty purposes, this is a sure way to void it since you cannot gauge anything properly or keep things from shifting later.
The purpose of the dowel pins is to accurately locate the bellhousing and if the holes are "several thousands" larger, you need a new bellhousing.
The proper method is to replace the pins as planned.
jim-81:
I don't mean to steer your thread off topic. But I am curious if you can fit this transmission into a car without a removable crossmember? My other question is why does the bellhousing need to be indexed? Is it because the transmission fits different applications and sometimes doesn't center correctly?
If I may take a liberty here and answer this...
Can you install without a removable crossmember?
Absolutely. Is it easy? No. Our manual outlines a method of installation without pulling the engine but it's almost easier to just pull the engine. Many will convert their crossmember to bolt back in and we have the brackets and hardware for $99. Or, just use some 1/4" plate and make your own.
Why does the bellhousing need to be indexed?
Modern transmissions have input shafts supported by a tapered roller bearing that is shimmed for end play. In other words, they don't "wiggle."
Older transmissions used a roller bearing that allowed the input shaft to wiggle some so bellhousing alignment wasn't as critical. Bellhousing misalignment greater than .005" can wear the input shaft bearing prematurely, cause shifting problems and just make a mess of the transmission in general. This is a critical step towards proper overdrive transmission installation.
It's possible you can just loosen the 6 mounting bolts and give it a couple of heavy downward whacks with a big rubber mallet because the dowel holes are several thousands larger than the dowels.
That would not work. First of all, there is not that much slop in the locating dowels, secondly tightening the bolts would move the BH around more.
jim-81:
I don't mean to steer your thread off topic. But I am curious if you can fit this transmission into a car without a removable crossmember? My other question is why does the bellhousing need to be indexed? Is it because the transmission fits different applications and sometimes doesn't center correctly?
Absolutely. Is it easy? No. Our manual outlines a method of installation without pulling the engine but it's almost easier to just pull the engine. Many will convert their crossmember to bolt back in and we have the brackets and hardware for $99. Or, just use some 1/4" plate and make your own.
Why does the bellhousing need to be indexed?
Modern transmissions have input shafts supported by a tapered roller bearing that is shimmed for end play. In other words, they don't "wiggle."
Older transmissions used a roller bearing that allowed the input shaft to wiggle some so bellhousing alignment wasn't as critical. Bellhousing misalignment greater than .005" can wear the input shaft bearing prematurely, cause shifting problems and just make a mess of the transmission in general. This is a critical step towards proper overdrive transmission installation.
Well I made some good progress last night. First of all the dowel pins showed up which was a surprise. So I got them in and re-checked it and I got it to .003" off, which I think is great! Then of course I installed the clutch and bell housing for good. I used the plastic alignment tool which seemed to work ok. So then I figured there was still time to go ahead and try to install the trans. Jacked it up and slid it in but it stopped about 1/2" away. Wiggled quite a bit and no go. Then I remembered someone posting that you should have a helper push in the clutch to loosen things up in there. So I grabbed the wife lol, and THAT WORKED! Wow - trans is in!
I don't know if it was me, but I was mad as a hornet reinstalling my rebuilt/upgraded 355 L-82 back in 2014 and for the life of me could NOT get the Super T-10 trans to connect with the new RAM HDX clutch! UNTIL I read on a suburu site about having a helper step on the clutch pedal to release the clutch from the flywheel. The engine and trans slipped right together.....I was simply amazed that all the experts do not make this suggestion often when folks have difficulty marry the 2 together!!!! This step makes the reinstall SO MUCH easier....
OK another productive session last night. Got the cross member installed. By the way, that thing is super nice - very heavy duty and well made. And I reinstalled the shift tower mostly from above through the hole. I was a little concerned about the shift tower, whether I was going to be able to reattach it after removing it. The directions say to remove it which I did, but I wasn't sure if there would be enough room to reattach it after the trans was installed. But there was plenty of room. So I got that all back together. Then I installed the drive shaft, which was included - again a very nice piece. Uses Spicer solid U joints.
So the trans is in and all major things are connected. I just have to hook up the reverse lights, and speedo cable. The neutral safety switch won't be able to be hooked up because I never hooked it up at the clutch way up in there, so that's OK.
How much did the kit cost you all in (total) for everything?
It was $3825 for everything, and they gave me a forum discount. It's a lot of money but it is a nice kit. I figured I'd do this now then I would be ready, maybe next year to upgrade/rebuild the engine to a stroker and everything should hold up.
It's basically all done, I just have to reattach the fan and put the plugs back in and I can start it and check for noises and stuff. Although with side pipes you don't hear many other noises! But I have the back tires off the blocks so I can put it gear and go through the gears (slowly).
Last night I did the bell housing checking. I removed two bolts from the flywheel and attached the magnetic base to the flywheel and it was rock solid. So I did the indicating and it looks like it's about .015 off (TIR) so I am thinking I need the .007 offset dowels. Looks like it needs to come down .007".
I'm doing this over xmas!Mine is an auto now and I'm doing the hydraulic clutch so a little more involved but I can't take it anymore just staring at the boxes in the garage!! Ha ha
I did my 71 last year, Silver Sport kit, the fit and ease of install was super easy and perfect.
I helped a friend put his in in Oct. All we did was pull the fan / clutch, lift the motor and slide it forward a few inches - really a no issue install also. He went from a 4 speed to a TKO 600 -5 speed also from Silver Sport.
Super T10 -> TKO 600 install
Actually four boxes, five with the drive shaft. DS was shipped from another location. Don't know if I mentioned it but I ordered from Silver Sport Transmission, which has been great so far. Let me tell you, they pack this stuff up real nice. All of the fasteners are individually packaged and labeled - very nice. The cross member looks real nice too. I went ahead and installed the pilot bearing, it was a snug fit but OK. The old brass pilot bushing from the ST10 just sort of fell out! So I am waiting on the offset dowel pins... 
for everything, and they gave me a forum discount. It's a lot of money but it is a nice kit. I figured I'd do this now then I would be ready, maybe next year to upgrade/rebuild the engine to a stroker and everything should hold up.
