C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Caliper bolts wont buge

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-18-2017, 12:47 AM
  #1  
Classic Muscle
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Classic Muscle's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2017
Location: Mocksville North Carolina
Posts: 108
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Caliper bolts wont buge

Trying to remove the caliper bolts on a 1977 and can't get them to come lose. I soaked them with liquid wrench and let them set for a couple days. I've tried a cheater bar on the end of my ratchet with no luck even a little heat from a propane torch. I am afraid I'm going to strip the head on the bolt or break it off completely. Any advice? Also if I get em out is there something I can put on the threads to keep it from doing this again cause I'm sure I'll be redoing these calipers again at some point from what I hear?
Old 12-18-2017, 04:53 AM
  #2  
NeverTooOld
Racer
 
NeverTooOld's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2017
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 30 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Classic Muscle
Trying to remove the caliper bolts on a 1977 and can't get them to come lose. I soaked them with liquid wrench and let them set for a couple days. I've tried a cheater bar on the end of my ratchet with no luck even a little heat from a propane torch. I am afraid I'm going to strip the head on the bolt or break it off completely. Any advice? Also if I get em out is there something I can put on the threads to keep it from doing this again cause I'm sure I'll be redoing these calipers again at some point from what I hear?

Are you sure you are trying to turn the bolts in the right direction?
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-28-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 08:00 AM
  #3  
leadfoot4
Team Owner
 
leadfoot4's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Western NY
Posts: 82,776
Received 1,343 Likes on 1,094 Posts

Default

OP, hopefully you're applying heat to the spindle, and NOT the bolt. Assuming you can eventually get the bolts removed, use some anti-seize on the threads, as well as a torque wrench, when you re-install them.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 08:07 AM
  #4  
Red86Z51
Melting Slicks
 
Red86Z51's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Indianapolis IN
Posts: 3,472
Received 444 Likes on 322 Posts
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
C4 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019

Default

Classic, do you have access to an impact wrench? If so, try that route. I have never had an issue removing those bolts with the aid of my trusty IR impact.

Dave
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 08:52 AM
  #5  
HeadsU.P.
Le Mans Master
 
HeadsU.P.'s Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
Posts: 6,902
Received 2,127 Likes on 1,634 Posts
Default

Well, you are doing everything right except I have had better luck with PB Blaster. Soak it, let it set overnite. Heat the bolt up, breaker bar and a 6 point socket.

I would never put anti-seize on brake parts. Consider that product for items that are frequently removed (sparkplugs). You sure don't want brake parts coming loose! Once the bolts are off, use LocTite Blue on the threads, common sense. Keep at it, you'll get it.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 09:41 AM
  #6  
henrikse
Pro
 
henrikse's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2016
Location: Kelowna British Columbia
Posts: 729
Received 115 Likes on 98 Posts
Default

1/2 in breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe should work. Shouldn't break. Bubba might have put loctite on them??
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 09:58 AM
  #7  
NeverTooOld
Racer
 
NeverTooOld's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2017
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 30 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Well, you are doing everything right except I have had better luck with PB Blaster. Soak it, let it set overnite. Heat the bolt up, breaker bar and a 6 point socket.

I would never put anti-seize on brake parts. Consider that product for items that are frequently removed (spark plugs). You sure don't want brake parts coming loose! Once the bolts are off, use LocTite Blue on the threads, common sense. Keep at it, you'll get it.

I have always used Never-Seize on my caliper mounting bolts; mainly to prevent rust.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 10:02 AM
  #8  
7T1vette
Team Owner
 
7T1vette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Crossville TN
Posts: 36,600
Received 2,713 Likes on 2,271 Posts

Default

Every 'brake' mechanic needs an impact driver. This is the hand-held gizmo that you strike with a BFH to get super-tight bolts/nuts loose. If you need this kind of device frequently, buy a good brand name product; if you don't, go to Harbor Freight for the 'cheapie'.

It will get the job done without damaging your bolt or the caliper.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 10:04 AM
  #9  
Rodnok1
Melting Slicks
 
Rodnok1's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2016
Location: NC
Posts: 3,004
Received 104 Likes on 92 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by NeverTooOld
I have always used Never-Seize on my caliper mounting bolts; mainly to prevent rust.
I'll second the anti seize... Never had one back out in 40 years. Now I have snapped more than a few off from being corroded on... And wanted to have an in depth discussion with a few people who have used loctite on them.
PB blaster definitely and sometimes a good wack to loosen instead of just pressure will break the corrosion bond.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 10:15 AM
  #10  
C6_Racer_X
Safety Car
 
C6_Racer_X's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2017
Location: North Georgia, USA
Posts: 4,786
Received 416 Likes on 321 Posts
Default

The best commercial stuff to squirt on seized bolts is PB Blaster, in my experience. A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, shaken well before spraying it on the seized parts, works very well, too.

Heat should be applied to the area immediately around the bolt, not directly to the bolt itself.

Add me to the list of fans of "impact drivers." I've got a 1/2 inch drive one and a 3/8 inch drive on. Select appropriate impact rated 6 point socket, put it on the driver, set it for loosen, put it on the bolt head and hit it hard with a BFH. Best done with the surrounding metal is hot from the torch, and some fresh PB blaster or acetone/ATF has been applied.

Heat and impact are the key. And patience. Don't break the bolt head with too much force applied slowly with a wrench. That's a bigger problem with more difficult solutions.

If you must use a normal socket and breaker bar or ratchet, hitting the ratchet head / breaker bar head end with a BFH, pounding it toward the bolt, puts some vibration into the joint and can also break it loose.

Last edited by C6_Racer_X; 12-18-2017 at 10:18 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 10:18 AM
  #11  
REELAV8R
Le Mans Master
 
REELAV8R's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: Hermosa
Posts: 6,056
Received 1,034 Likes on 852 Posts

Default

Well, you are doing everything right except I have had better luck with PB Blaster. Soak it, let it set overnite. Heat the bolt up, breaker bar and a 6 point socket.
You can't get much torque using a ratchet without breaking it. 1/2" breaker bar gets the job done usually.

Last edited by REELAV8R; 12-18-2017 at 10:19 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-18-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 12:23 PM
  #12  
Classic Muscle
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
Classic Muscle's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2017
Location: Mocksville North Carolina
Posts: 108
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by NeverTooOld
Are you sure you are trying to turn the bolts in the right direction?
Yes unless they are reverse threaded
Old 12-18-2017, 04:17 PM
  #13  
HeadsU.P.
Le Mans Master
 
HeadsU.P.'s Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
Posts: 6,902
Received 2,127 Likes on 1,634 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by henrikse
1/2 in breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe should work. Shouldn't break. Bubba might have put loctite on them??
No need for name calling here. I'm just saying I put LocTite Blue on all my suspension parts and drivetrain parts. I don't worry about getting nuts & bolts loose. I worry more about coming loose at over 100 MPH.
Old 12-18-2017, 05:42 PM
  #14  
derekderek
Race Director
 
derekderek's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2015
Location: SW Florida.
Posts: 13,022
Received 3,388 Likes on 2,633 Posts
Default

Loctite makes bolts come out kind of hard. It won't make them impossible to remove. In fact, it will seal the threads to keep water out so it works like never sieze. A bit of propane heat will release the loctite. And loctite won't break a bolt 3/8th or smaller. Not red, so certainly not blue.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 09:08 PM
  #15  
truckerlary
Racer
 
truckerlary's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2016
Location: Tipton In.
Posts: 311
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

You might try striking the head of the bolt with a hammer. Same as hitting the end of the socket except more direct. The vibration could very well make it break loose.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 10:40 PM
  #16  
carriljc
Le Mans Master
 
carriljc's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,362
Received 880 Likes on 765 Posts

Default

The first time I had to remove my front calipers I had to use like a 3 foot pipe on a half-inch drive bar. I am quite sure they were loctited....probably red at that.

I now have a real oxy-acetalyne torch, and if I had to do it today I would use heat, instead of pure brute force. In my experience the oxy-acetalyne will work wonders where a propane torch will not.

I would suggest PB blaster soak and an impact wrench, and----if not successful then get out the oxy-acetalyne torch and warm it up. If you'reg going to use a cheater bar, then do NOT use it on a ratchet, if the ratchet breaks you can injure yourself and/or damage things. Just something to keep in mind.

I also use a "touch" of blue loctite when assembling the generic suspension component.

Last edited by carriljc; 12-18-2017 at 10:43 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)
Old 12-18-2017, 11:05 PM
  #17  
BLUE1972
Race Director
 
BLUE1972's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2008
Location: FARMINGDALE N..Y.
Posts: 15,954
Received 1,129 Likes on 733 Posts

Default

Heat it up and then soak the bolt in FREEZE OFF. It cools the bolt and usually frees the bolt

Sometimes shock such as an impact or hitting the breaker bar works better than brute force.

Be sure to use an impact 6 point socket.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)

Get notified of new replies

To Caliper bolts wont buge

Old 12-19-2017, 12:11 AM
  #18  
TCracingCA
Team Owner

 
TCracingCA's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: California
Posts: 36,658
Received 1,683 Likes on 1,005 Posts

Default

Just don't pull the car off of the jack stands on top of you!
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)
Old 12-19-2017, 12:40 AM
  #19  
ronarndt
Drifting
 
ronarndt's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2015
Location: Catlett VA
Posts: 1,765
Received 252 Likes on 193 Posts
Default

Welcome to the world of working on old cars. Stuck bolts. I made the mistake of using my favorite 1/2 inch ratchet, which already had an 18 inch handle, and put a 5 foot pipe over the handle to remove a stubborn lug nut on my truck. The sound of high quality tool steel shattering sounds like a gun shot. Should have used my beaker bar plus the pipe.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)
Old 12-20-2017, 07:29 PM
  #20  
DaveL82
Drifting
 
DaveL82's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 1999
Location: Plano TX
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 19 Posts

Default

On Vettes I've never worked on before as in friends cars I use a wrench that fits tight on the bolt then use a small mallet to hit the wrench to jar the bolt loose. Of course this is a wrench I'm willing to break.

The poster that was asking if your turning it the right way was just making sure as I've seen folks try to turn bolts the wrong way when the bolt is pointing towards them.
The following users liked this post:
Classic Muscle (12-20-2017)


Quick Reply: Caliper bolts wont buge



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:30 PM.