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Headlight bezel screws stripped

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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 09:38 PM
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Default Headlight bezel screws stripped

On the passenger side of my '72, the top screws in the headlight bezel are stripped or have damaged threads. One did not have a screw in it at all and will not hold the one that should go there. The other had the wrong screw in it; it had the same size screw that the two side screws are. I can put that screw back in and leave it at that but would rather put the correct ones in. Can I pack JB Weld in those two holes and the drill and tap to correct size? Is that something that JB Weld can be used for? Or is there something else? Thanks.
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 10:40 PM
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Default Stripped headlight housing

Originally Posted by kansas123
On the passenger side of my '72, the top screws in the headlight bezel are stripped or have damaged threads. One did not have a screw in it at all and will not hold the one that should go there. The other had the wrong screw in it; it had the same size screw that the two side screws are. I can put that screw back in and leave it at that but would rather put the correct ones in. Can I pack JB Weld in those two holes and the drill and tap to correct size? Is that something that JB Weld can be used for? Or is there something else? Thanks.
I did not use JB weld on my one stripped bezel screw on my 70. I used POR 15 epoxy putty. It was easier to get where it was needed and stayed where it was needed. JB weld will run. I added material around the perimeter of the hole and pressed it in place with a small screw driver. I was able to get the correct screw to bite properly with the added material.

Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem.

Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 10:58 PM
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If you use a tap you need a bottoming tap. No point, a flat bottom.

I have also used "LOCTITE BLUE" . if it's not totally stripped.

On my 71 - I went with the next size metric screw, just a few thousands bigger but fit and grabbed.

If the head is too big you can turn the head down.
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 11:08 PM
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Loctite actually makes a compound called "Form a Thread"
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797876355073
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Toms 80
Loctite actually makes a compound called "Form a Thread"
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797876355073
Someone had put that on my fan clutch. It worked till I took it off
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 08:47 AM
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Use a helicoil!
VS
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 09:29 AM
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Hi k123,
Take Bill's advice seriously:

"Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem."

It's EASY to damage the door working so close to the edge and because of the material it's made from.

IF the 2 screws at the rear of the bezel are holding the bezel quite securely the installation of the front screws can be almost just be for cosmetic purposes.
So something like JB weld can do quite well.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi k123,
Take Bill's advice seriously:

"Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem."

It's EASY to damage the door working so close to the edge and because of the material it's made from.

IF the 2 screws at the rear of the bezel are holding the bezel quite securely the installation of the front screws can be almost just be for cosmetic purposes.
So something like JB weld can do quite well.
Regards,
Alan
Yes, I think it's best not to tap even that one hole that the wrong screw was in; I may try to find a chrome screw that fits that hole that has the correct head, then I will have 3 screws holding the bezel; on the 4th, I will use the JB.

Lot's of good suggestions here, I thank you all. I have 2 high beam halogen headlamps on the way, then I will get to it.
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 08:14 PM
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The JB Weld will work fine. Don't try to tap it. You can get stainless pan head sheet metal screws #8 x 1/4" from Lowes or Home Depot. They are packaged by Hillman and the head is exactly like the oem screws. After filling hole, drill a 1/64" hole in the center 1/4" deep. Drill a slightly bigger hole 1/8" deep. The screw will thread right in. I've got 4 that way and they hold perfectly.

Last edited by flyeri; Dec 19, 2017 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 06:47 PM
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same problem, different guy. Thanks to everyone, I was going to use JB weld metal compund putty. I like the sheet metal screw alternative idea as I was gong to try and tap it but wasnt to keen on it actually working.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by flyeri
The JB Weld will work fine. Don't try to tap it. You can get stainless pan head sheet metal screws #8 x 1/4" from Lowes or Home Depot. They are packaged by Hillman and the head is exactly like the oem screws. After filling hole, drill a 1/64" hole in the center 1/4" deep. Drill a slightly bigger hole 1/8" deep. The screw will thread right in. I've got 4 that way and they hold perfectly.
Yippee, I was successful! Thanks again.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Hi k123,
Great!
Nice practical info from fly!!!!
Regards,
Alan
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