Headlight bezel screws stripped
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Headlight bezel screws stripped
On the passenger side of my '72, the top screws in the headlight bezel are stripped or have damaged threads. One did not have a screw in it at all and will not hold the one that should go there. The other had the wrong screw in it; it had the same size screw that the two side screws are. I can put that screw back in and leave it at that but would rather put the correct ones in. Can I pack JB Weld in those two holes and the drill and tap to correct size? Is that something that JB Weld can be used for? Or is there something else? Thanks.
#2
Melting Slicks
Stripped headlight housing
On the passenger side of my '72, the top screws in the headlight bezel are stripped or have damaged threads. One did not have a screw in it at all and will not hold the one that should go there. The other had the wrong screw in it; it had the same size screw that the two side screws are. I can put that screw back in and leave it at that but would rather put the correct ones in. Can I pack JB Weld in those two holes and the drill and tap to correct size? Is that something that JB Weld can be used for? Or is there something else? Thanks.
Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem.
Hope this helps.
Bill
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kansas123 (12-19-2017)
#3
Race Director
If you use a tap you need a bottoming tap. No point, a flat bottom.
I have also used "LOCTITE BLUE" . if it's not totally stripped.
On my 71 - I went with the next size metric screw, just a few thousands bigger but fit and grabbed.
If the head is too big you can turn the head down.
I have also used "LOCTITE BLUE" . if it's not totally stripped.
On my 71 - I went with the next size metric screw, just a few thousands bigger but fit and grabbed.
If the head is too big you can turn the head down.
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kansas123 (12-19-2017)
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kansas123 (12-19-2017)
#5
Melting Slicks
Loctite actually makes a compound called "Form a Thread"
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797876355073
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797876355073
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kansas123 (12-19-2017)
#7
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Hi k123,
Take Bill's advice seriously:
"Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem."
It's EASY to damage the door working so close to the edge and because of the material it's made from.
IF the 2 screws at the rear of the bezel are holding the bezel quite securely the installation of the front screws can be almost just be for cosmetic purposes.
So something like JB weld can do quite well.
Regards,
Alan
Take Bill's advice seriously:
"Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem."
It's EASY to damage the door working so close to the edge and because of the material it's made from.
IF the 2 screws at the rear of the bezel are holding the bezel quite securely the installation of the front screws can be almost just be for cosmetic purposes.
So something like JB weld can do quite well.
Regards,
Alan
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kansas123 (12-19-2017)
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hi k123,
Take Bill's advice seriously:
"Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem."
It's EASY to damage the door working so close to the edge and because of the material it's made from.
IF the 2 screws at the rear of the bezel are holding the bezel quite securely the installation of the front screws can be almost just be for cosmetic purposes.
So something like JB weld can do quite well.
Regards,
Alan
Take Bill's advice seriously:
"Tapping can be difficult because the hole is so shallow. The tap can not get started before bottoming out unless you cut off the tip of the tap.The tap can very easily go through the bezel and you will have a bigger problem."
It's EASY to damage the door working so close to the edge and because of the material it's made from.
IF the 2 screws at the rear of the bezel are holding the bezel quite securely the installation of the front screws can be almost just be for cosmetic purposes.
So something like JB weld can do quite well.
Regards,
Alan
Lot's of good suggestions here, I thank you all. I have 2 high beam halogen headlamps on the way, then I will get to it.
#9
Drifting
The JB Weld will work fine. Don't try to tap it. You can get stainless pan head sheet metal screws #8 x 1/4" from Lowes or Home Depot. They are packaged by Hillman and the head is exactly like the oem screws. After filling hole, drill a 1/64" hole in the center 1/4" deep. Drill a slightly bigger hole 1/8" deep. The screw will thread right in. I've got 4 that way and they hold perfectly.
Last edited by flyeri; 12-19-2017 at 08:14 PM.
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Rescue Rogers (12-21-2017)
#10
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same problem, different guy. Thanks to everyone, I was going to use JB weld metal compund putty. I like the sheet metal screw alternative idea as I was gong to try and tap it but wasnt to keen on it actually working.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The JB Weld will work fine. Don't try to tap it. You can get stainless pan head sheet metal screws #8 x 1/4" from Lowes or Home Depot. They are packaged by Hillman and the head is exactly like the oem screws. After filling hole, drill a 1/64" hole in the center 1/4" deep. Drill a slightly bigger hole 1/8" deep. The screw will thread right in. I've got 4 that way and they hold perfectly.
#12
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Hi k123,
Great!
Nice practical info from fly!!!!
Regards,
Alan
Great!
Nice practical info from fly!!!!
Regards,
Alan