a large flat blade works best. It wont take much.
Holley Disassembly Problems
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Holley Disassembly Problems
Having a helluva time trying to separate the blocks from the body on this 6210-3 double pumper. Outer Bowls separate fine, but not the Blocks. It's like they're glued onto the Body!
Is there any kind of product someone here uses to make this separation easier. I don't wanna damage anything here by forcing them apart. I want to break down and soak/clean the carburetor.
Thanks much.
Steve
Is there any kind of product someone here uses to make this separation easier. I don't wanna damage anything here by forcing them apart. I want to break down and soak/clean the carburetor.
Thanks much.
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 282
From: Bedford New York
If the gasket is there, just pry the metering block off with a flat blade screwdriver. Usually a little leverage applied between the air cleaner seat and the block is all that's needed to loosen it up enough.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Spray a little Gumout Carb Cleaner around the seam. Old gum and varnish deposits are like glue on those gaskets. Using the smallest, finest blade screwdriver, wedge the tip in ever so slightly. If all else, put a fuel bowl bolt part way in and tap on the end, sideways with a soft hammer. That will usually pop it lose.
Holley makes Blue rubberized metering gaskets that can handle the Ethanol (sorta) better than the fiber gaskets. They are reusable and come off easier.
Holley makes Blue rubberized metering gaskets that can handle the Ethanol (sorta) better than the fiber gaskets. They are reusable and come off easier.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 25, 2017 at 02:05 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,154
Likes: 7,941
From: Napa Valley California
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Thanks for the response guys.
Drwet; ever since the Great PhotoBucket Heist, I've been shutout with the pictures. As many here might know, I loved displaying pics.
Folks, this is not a normal case. There's an ADHESIVE on these joints. A single-edge razor blade, douched with Gumout, has to be driven in with a hammer. And EVEN THEN, the rest of the joint remains bonded, of course. Blue slivers of gasket emerging simply means the gasket is still bonding with the metal.
I'll get it eventually, taking a lot of time with it. But I'm not risking a gouge in that soft metal with any screwdriver, because it will. And without popping apart.
All of this, THANKS to the last rebuilder.
Steve
Drwet; ever since the Great PhotoBucket Heist, I've been shutout with the pictures. As many here might know, I loved displaying pics.
Folks, this is not a normal case. There's an ADHESIVE on these joints. A single-edge razor blade, douched with Gumout, has to be driven in with a hammer. And EVEN THEN, the rest of the joint remains bonded, of course. Blue slivers of gasket emerging simply means the gasket is still bonding with the metal.
I'll get it eventually, taking a lot of time with it. But I'm not risking a gouge in that soft metal with any screwdriver, because it will. And without popping apart.
All of this, THANKS to the last rebuilder.
Steve
Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 289
Likes: 32
Thanks for the response guys.
Drwet; ever since the Great PhotoBucket Heist, I've been shutout with the pictures. As many here might know, I loved displaying pics.
Folks, this is not a normal case. There's an ADHESIVE on these joints. A single-edge razor blade, douched with Gumout, has to be driven in with a hammer. And EVEN THEN, the rest of the joint remains bonded, of course. Blue slivers of gasket emerging simply means the gasket is still bonding with the metal.
I'll get it eventually, taking a lot of time with it. But I'm not risking a gouge in that soft metal with any screwdriver, because it will. And without popping apart.
All of this, THANKS to the last rebuilder.
Steve
Drwet; ever since the Great PhotoBucket Heist, I've been shutout with the pictures. As many here might know, I loved displaying pics.
Folks, this is not a normal case. There's an ADHESIVE on these joints. A single-edge razor blade, douched with Gumout, has to be driven in with a hammer. And EVEN THEN, the rest of the joint remains bonded, of course. Blue slivers of gasket emerging simply means the gasket is still bonding with the metal.
I'll get it eventually, taking a lot of time with it. But I'm not risking a gouge in that soft metal with any screwdriver, because it will. And without popping apart.
All of this, THANKS to the last rebuilder.
Steve
It's not the rebuilder's fault but rather the gasket's fault. When the gasoline laden gaskets dry out the gasoline turns into a kind of varnish that sticks everything together. Soaking the whole shebang in carburetor cleaner or alcohol will eventually dissolve the varnish and it'll come apart. The best thing to do after you get it apart is use genuine Holley "non stick" blue gaskets as they won't absorb the gasoline like paper gaskets.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
It's not the rebuilder's fault but rather the gasket's fault. When the gasoline laden gaskets dry out the gasoline turns into a kind of varnish that sticks everything together. Soaking the whole shebang in carburetor cleaner or alcohol will eventually dissolve the varnish and it'll come apart. The best thing to do after you get it apart is use genuine Holley "non stick" blue gaskets as they won't absorb the gasoline like paper gaskets.
I will take this under consideration.
Steve
P.S.: I finally got them separated, without damage.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 289
Likes: 32
The metering blocks have "dowel" pins that are a part of the metering block and it's common for them to break off when you try to pry the metering block apart from the main body. Their only purpose is to align the metering block with the main body but even with them broken off the float bowl screws accomplish the same thing.
The premium Holley "non stick" blue gaskets will never stick because they're made from a material that will not absorb gasoline. The genuine Holley rebuild kits cost around $45 but they're well worth the added expense when compare to the original gaskets. Two years ago I bought an aftermarket kit for half the price that had blue gaskets but quickly discovered they were the cheaper paper gaskets that were dyed blue.
Last edited by NeverTooOld; Dec 26, 2017 at 07:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
The metering blocks have "dowel" pins that are a part of the metering block and it's common for them to break off when you try to pry the metering block apart from the main body. Their only purpose is to align the metering block with the main body but even with them broken off the float bowl screws accomplish the same thing.
The premium Holley "non stick" blue gaskets will never stick because they're made from a material that will not absorb gasoline. The genuine Holley rebuild kits cost around $45 but they're well worth the added expense when compare to the original gaskets. Two years ago I bought an aftermarket kit for half the price that had blue gaskets but quickly discovered they were the cheaper paper gaskets that were dyed blue.
The premium Holley "non stick" blue gaskets will never stick because they're made from a material that will not absorb gasoline. The genuine Holley rebuild kits cost around $45 but they're well worth the added expense when compare to the original gaskets. Two years ago I bought an aftermarket kit for half the price that had blue gaskets but quickly discovered they were the cheaper paper gaskets that were dyed blue.
Thank you sir.
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 65
From: Wauconda IL
I use the black Buna-N gaskets from Moroso for my blocks and bowls-
Even the blue 'non-stick' Holley gaskets will stick eventually.
The Buna-N gaskets will never stick and are reusable.
Just my .02
Elm
Even the blue 'non-stick' Holley gaskets will stick eventually.
The Buna-N gaskets will never stick and are reusable.
Just my .02
Elm
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
But I have a question. When we buy these sets for our carbs, shouldn't the set have gaskets that fit both blocks?
What I'm talking about is this. I received a Holley 108-202 Gasket Assortment for my 6210-3, and only 1 gaskets out of the 4 fit. The plastic card they're sold in was open and gaskets were found loose in the shipping box. It makes me think someone switch some gaskets they needed with ones they didn't. A bowl gasket and body gasket in the kit are too small for this carburetor.
So, now I'm gun-shy of buying ANY more gaskets.
Steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Yes the gaskets are sold in pairs. Two bowl gaskets or two metering block gaskets. Pay careful attention how the old ones were lined up before removing. If you flip a gasket around by accident, you could block off the accelerator pump port.
I would stick with genuine Holley parts. I have had trouble with other brands. Some are a little on the small side. Try Summit Racing for Holley carb parts.
I would stick with genuine Holley parts. I have had trouble with other brands. Some are a little on the small side. Try Summit Racing for Holley carb parts.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Yes the gaskets are sold in pairs. Two bowl gaskets or two metering block gaskets. Pay careful attention how the old ones were lined up before removing. If you flip a gasket around by accident, you could block off the accelerator pump port.
I would stick with genuine Holley parts. I have had trouble with other brands. Some are a little on the small side. Try Summit Racing for Holley carb parts.
I would stick with genuine Holley parts. I have had trouble with other brands. Some are a little on the small side. Try Summit Racing for Holley carb parts.
The Blocks on this carb had offset pins, so the MB gaskets were Steevie-proof.
I gotta say this though: The opened Holley set, was from Summit.
Their #: HLY-108-202
Steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
They would have taken it back and paid the return shpng if they were at fault. They're a good company that stands behind their sales.
Warehouses have kids working the night shift. If they need one part out of a box, well, it happens. Then who ever packs the shpng box later on would have no idea something is missing.
Warehouses have kids working the night shift. If they need one part out of a box, well, it happens. Then who ever packs the shpng box later on would have no idea something is missing.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 29, 2017 at 08:52 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,154
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From: Napa Valley California
I've never had any issues ordering through Summit Racing. Their warehouse in Reno is close enough that I usually get parts in 1-2 days. I would give them a call and I'm sure you'll have another gasket set within a couple of days without question.
