1980 L82 Front Rotor question
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Pearland TX
1980 L82 Front Rotor question
I have an '80 L82 completely torn apart. I took the front control arms and spindles with rotors (all attached) to the blaster and powder cote shop and got it all back minus the bearings and rotors. Now I'm looking for new rotors but I can't seem to find what I think I'm looking for.
Doesn't the '80 need rotors with the studs in them? every diagram I can find makes it appear I need rotors with studs in them. Do I buy studs separately?
TIA!
http://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-fr...tor-stock.html
Doesn't the '80 need rotors with the studs in them? every diagram I can find makes it appear I need rotors with studs in them. Do I buy studs separately?
TIA!
http://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-fr...tor-stock.html
Last edited by usmarinejohn; Dec 26, 2017 at 04:58 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 289
Likes: 32
I have an '80 L82 completely torn apart. I took the front control arms and spindles with rotors (all attached) to the blaster and powder cote shop and got it all back minus the bearings and rotors. Now I'm looking for new rotors but I can't seem to find what I think I'm looking for.
Doesn't the '80 need rotors with the studs in them? every diagram I can find makes it appear I need rotors with studs in them. Do I buy studs separately?
TIA!
http://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-fr...tor-stock.html
Doesn't the '80 need rotors with the studs in them? every diagram I can find makes it appear I need rotors with studs in them. Do I buy studs separately?
TIA!
http://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-fr...tor-stock.html
It's the bearing hubs that have the studs; not the rotors. Then the rotors fit over/onto the studs.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
The wheel studs are pressed into the bearing hub.
The rotor you sent a link to will work perfectly and the studs pass through the rotor.
It is NOT necessary for you to rivet the rotor back onto the bearing hub. When you torque your lug nuts....that is what will hold the rotor as needed.
Some people tap the bearing housing and put in screws and screw the rotor to the bearing housing...so if that is what you want to do...have at it...but it is not required. I can prove it in written text from GM if needed.
BUT...the ONE thing that you REALLY need to do is index your rotors with a dial indicator. Just because you are installing a new rotor DOES NOT mean that it is correct in regards to run-out. And turning the NEW rotor when it is attached to your bearing housing can cause you to take off a lot of GOOD metal.
So..this is when I use steel shims and shim the rotor and using my dial indicator. I can get the rotor to run very, very true...or at least less than what GM specifies....because this IS a something you should check that GM does reference in the service manual.
I make my own shims out of metal shim stock...but in the link below shows how it is done to give you an idea what you might be facing.
DUB
The rotor you sent a link to will work perfectly and the studs pass through the rotor.
It is NOT necessary for you to rivet the rotor back onto the bearing hub. When you torque your lug nuts....that is what will hold the rotor as needed.
Some people tap the bearing housing and put in screws and screw the rotor to the bearing housing...so if that is what you want to do...have at it...but it is not required. I can prove it in written text from GM if needed.
BUT...the ONE thing that you REALLY need to do is index your rotors with a dial indicator. Just because you are installing a new rotor DOES NOT mean that it is correct in regards to run-out. And turning the NEW rotor when it is attached to your bearing housing can cause you to take off a lot of GOOD metal.
So..this is when I use steel shims and shim the rotor and using my dial indicator. I can get the rotor to run very, very true...or at least less than what GM specifies....because this IS a something you should check that GM does reference in the service manual.
I make my own shims out of metal shim stock...but in the link below shows how it is done to give you an idea what you might be facing.
DUB
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Pearland TX
So that’s actually what I would have assumed. That studs would come attached to the bearing as an assembly, just as it is on the newer vehicles when you replace a rotor.
Unfortunately I’m just not seeing that when I search Ecklers, ZIP or Keen diagrams. And the diagrams and photos of the front bearing kits do not show a full hub assembly. Is it simply a misrepresentation of the item in the photos and diagrams? Where would you buy the front bearing/hub assembly for this vehicle?
Note, I’m not planning to turn the rotors, have only done that once or twice on older rotors when plenty of good metal is there. Didn’t know people do that!
Unfortunately I’m just not seeing that when I search Ecklers, ZIP or Keen diagrams. And the diagrams and photos of the front bearing kits do not show a full hub assembly. Is it simply a misrepresentation of the item in the photos and diagrams? Where would you buy the front bearing/hub assembly for this vehicle?
Note, I’m not planning to turn the rotors, have only done that once or twice on older rotors when plenty of good metal is there. Didn’t know people do that!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Pearland TX
Ok I believe I figured it out. I did finally find one ‘hub assembly’ zip corvette sells for the fronts but it’s nothing more than everything in the diagram pressed together (bearings with races with rotor with studs). I can instead purchase the bearing kit, studs, rotors and caps separately and press it together myself. So I’m definitely on the hunt for the studs if anyone knows the proper nomenclature for them. I have not come across those yet...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
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Ok I believe I figured it out. I did finally find one ‘hub assembly’ zip corvette sells for the fronts but it’s nothing more than everything in the diagram pressed together (bearings with races with rotor with studs). I can instead purchase the bearing kit, studs, rotors and caps separately and press it together myself. So I’m definitely on the hunt for the studs if anyone knows the proper nomenclature for them. I have not come across those yet...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
Your powder coater should have given the rotor-hub assemblies back to you. The hubs are not normally replaced, you just put in new cups and cones (bearings) and reuse the hub and studs. If you didn't get them back, then you got screwed!
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Originally the rotor and hub were riveted together which is why it looked like the rotor had the studs and bearings in it. When you used to buy a front rotor from GM it came with the hub already riveted as well. The hub has been discontinued for awhile which is why you don't see them. The rotors themselves are available without hub and they just slide right over the front hub. Although originally they were riveted they are in fact two different pieces. Originally they were only riveted to keep them from falling off the chassis on the assembly line and hitting someone. You do not need to rivet them back.
Le Mans Master
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