Small block intake gasket
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,220
Likes: 651
From: Thunder Bay
Small block intake gasket
I am ready to install my Edelbrock Performer Air Gap on my new AFR heads. The AFR instructions say to use the Fel Pro 1206 gasket set and to use silicone around the water jackets and under the intake ports. The Fel Pro instructions clearly say NOT to use any sealant on the gaskets. After extensive reading on this forum and other sites, the opinions seem to be about equally split. I think I've made the decision to follow the gasket manufacturer's instructions but I'd like to poll the Forum to see what the guys here do when installing intake gaskets. What's your vote?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,084
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From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
FWIW, I use Edelbrock gaskets with my RPM Air Gap manifold on Vortec heads. I use silicone sparingly around every port including water. Did this several times with no problems.
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
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I used the Felpro on my AFR 195's and Team G intake. I put some silicone around the water passages only. No leaks/seepage anywhere.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 894
Likes: 91
I am ready to install my Edelbrock Performer Air Gap on my new AFR heads. The AFR instructions say to use the Fel Pro 1206 gasket set and to use silicone around the water jackets and under the intake ports. The Fel Pro instructions clearly say NOT to use any sealant on the gaskets. After extensive reading on this forum and other sites, the opinions seem to be about equally split. I think I've made the decision to follow the gasket manufacturer's instructions but I'd like to poll the Forum to see what the guys here do when installing intake gaskets. What's your vote?
We also seal up the end rails on the block with this sealer, no gaskets at all.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. On a side note we just had the opportunity to do back-to-back dyno test using that 7501 Edelbrock on a decent 383", cost us very close to 50 Hp over a "Chinese" Professional-Products #52036 "Hurricane". It's the first one we got to test here on a 383" and probably be the last on that platform!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,220
Likes: 651
From: Thunder Bay
On a side note we just had the opportunity to do back-to-back dyno test using that 7501 Edelbrock on a decent 383", cost us very close to 50 Hp over a "Chinese" Professional-Products #52036 "Hurricane". It's the first one we got to test here on a 383" and probably be the last on that platform!![/COLOR]
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,093
Likes: 4,017
From: New Braunfels Texas
Silicone the backside of the water ports to hold the gasket in place. Put a bead of silicone across the china rails at the ends of the block....make sure the bead carries up into the small tabs at the bottom ends of the gaskets. A trial fit before all of this will give you an idea of how big the gaps at the end will be so you can get an idea of how fat of a bead to lay.
To repeat....silicone only on the backside to hold them in place.....the gaskets can be installed dry otherwise.
I also like to go around at least four times with the "pattern".....basically starting from the canter and pancaking outward in a spiral.
Good luck....have fun.....
Jebby
To repeat....silicone only on the backside to hold them in place.....the gaskets can be installed dry otherwise.
I also like to go around at least four times with the "pattern".....basically starting from the canter and pancaking outward in a spiral.
Good luck....have fun.....
Jebby
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 894
Likes: 91
For a "side-by-side" on a "streeter" I would most likely use a Brodix HV-1016 with a 3000/6500 RPM band??
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. We've done a few 383" pump-gas builds with some of the Brodix "divided-plenums" and have gone past 560 HP/495# Torque, depends entirely on the overall platform!
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Pro
Joined: May 2016
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From: Minnesota
I'm with Jebbysan. I use sealant around the ports between gasket and block (all of the ports) and nothing on the topside. At the front and back ends, throw the rubber seals away and use a single bead of silicone at each end, feathering it up over the bottom tab on the gaskets. You can temporarily use a couple of intake bolts on each side to hold the gaskets in place until they set up a little. Set the intake on, torque it according to the proper sequence, and DO NOT WIPE THE EXCESS that squeezes out. Wait until it is completely cured - a day maybe - overnight - and carefully trim any that squeezed out with a fresh razor blade if you want... or just leave it alone.
I use Permatex Ultra Black or Blue.
I use Permatex Ultra Black or Blue.
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As per edelbrocks installation instructions I used a gaskacinch type of instalation glue and that was it. Reusing the intake gasket after having to disassemble after torquing without firing the engine I used a permatex silicone.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
1. Another vote for Edlbrcks Gaskacinch, both sides of manifold gasket. (sit overnite)
2. RTV compatable w/ glycol on the water passages. (sit few minutes)
3. The Right Stuff on the end walls. (install within minutes)
Always, always always, figure out which material you are trying to seal out:
anti-freeze, oil, or even a vacuum. That will determine the specific sealant to use in a specific area. (instead of one size fits all).
2. RTV compatable w/ glycol on the water passages. (sit few minutes)
3. The Right Stuff on the end walls. (install within minutes)
Always, always always, figure out which material you are trying to seal out:
anti-freeze, oil, or even a vacuum. That will determine the specific sealant to use in a specific area. (instead of one size fits all).
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 5, 2018 at 04:26 PM.