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When I turn my key on my 77 I get nothing (no dash lights. No power anywhere). I connected the starter terminals with a screw driver and with the key in the on position and the starter turned and also gave me power back in the car. It started right up after that. I drove it around, turning it off and starting it back up about four times and it seemed fine. I let it sit for about and hour or two and it did the same thing, no start, no dash lights, no power anywhere. I tried to engage the starter with a screw driver again and it engaged but it’s not giving me power back or letting me start the car. Any ideas?
Last edited by DavidNHarris88; 01-13-2018 at 05:49 PM.
Besides checking for a good ground issue, others have found a faulty Neutral Safety Switch with both transmission types. One type would be under the dash, the other I believe is in the center console with the shifter.
This isn't quite your situation, but may help. During the summer, I had a infrequent no-start situation. Car would be fine cranking up, go for a drive, then bang-o. Nothing. Was really inconvenient when it happened on the car transporter when I moved from Midwest to Texas! Replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all the terminals, and no problems since.
My battery was good the whole time, and I would have dash lights. When turning the key, voltage on the center cluster voltmeter would drop, but no crank.
Did you test your battery with a voltmeter for 12+ volts? If so, you need to have the battery LOAD tested. There's a big difference. Testing for 12 volts with a meter will tell you nothing except that your battery has 12 volts with no load being placed on it.
Duane
The junction connector coming up from your starter that was mentioned can be your problem.
OR
IF you can start the car using the 'jump method' with a screwdriver and it runs...BUT...you have NO POWER ( as like you wrote ) when you turn the key ON. I would BET that you have burned up some of the fusible links that supply power to your fuse panel. Using a test light or voltmeter and going on your fuse panel and checking for voltage will be an IMMEDIATE proof that you have lost the power supply from these fusible links. One side of your fuse panel is HOT all the time (such as BRAKE, and CTSY fuses) ...while the other side is ONLY hot when you have your key ON (such as WIPER fuse)
Hopefully you have a wiring diagram and know how to read one.
I seriously doubt that you have a battery issue due to it cranked up by using the screwdriver..so amps and voltage are fine....BUT....it can still possibly have can have an issue at your battery that the terminals may be loose , corroded or dirty. But seeing how it cranked up...that is kinda mute but still worth verifying.
After I touched the starter terminals the first time and got complete power back To everything I was able to turn it off start it up by key about four more times before losing all power again. Would this mean the fusible links are still good?
David, once again, welcome to the Corvette Forum...
It appears that you now have at least 4 or 5 different threads going between the C3 Tech/Performance & C3 General Forums on essentially the same problem. This is not the best way to get a coordinated and conclusive response to a problem. It will add confusion to the responses you receive from members and undoubtedly frustration on your part.
The C3 Tech/Performance Forum is the correct place for this. Give the folks here an opportunity to absorb the problem you've described and the responses you've received from other members and you will get a much more conclusive solution.
You may want to ask a Forum Moderator to consolidate the subject into one thread.
David, once again, welcome to the Corvette Forum...
It appears that you now have at least 4 or 5 different threads going between the C3 Tech/Performance & C3 General Forums on essentially the same problem. This is not the best way to get a coordinated and conclusive response to a problem. It will add confusion to the responses you receive from members and undoubtedly frustration on your part.
The C3 Tech/Performance Forum is the correct place for this. Give the folks here an opportunity to absorb the problem you've described and the responses you've received from other members and you will get a much more conclusive solution.
You may want to ask a Forum Moderator to consolidate the subject into one thread.
Good luck and be as patient as you can... GUSTO
yes thank you, this is the first forum I’ve ever joined. Consolidating the threads would be nice
Fusible links are NOT the problem now KNOWING that you cranked it up with the key a few times.
When a fusible link blows...it is done and does not work any longer until it is replaced.
It is more than like the connection coming up from your starter is dirty and not making good contact. They are known to do this...do to how old the car is. It was a BAD design from GM.
Fusible links are NOT the problem now KNOWING that you cranked it up with the key a few times.
When a fusible link blows...it is done and does not work any longer until it is replaced.
It is more than like the connection coming up from your starter is dirty and not making good contact. They are known to do this...do to how old the car is. It was a BAD design from GM.
DUB
I even tried to find a picture of that connector. No luck. I know somebody has one- probably a pic of one that's fried and a new one.
That's the one. That little connector will kill power to the car if it dies. And they do. Age makes the plastic brittle, the contacts get wet, they move, they corrode, they get hot, the list goes on. And it's an amazingly simple fix that gets overlooked.
So, for the last year I would have times when my car would not start, was completely unresponsive. Inconvenient if I had gone to the store or somewhere and couldn't get home. Well I finally figured it out late this summer, that the 'substitute' for the fusible link next to the horn relay was at fault. If I moved the two leads to it, I was good to go. All the things I have seen about fusible links now make me question whether or not the mechanic did the right thing putting this doo-dad in and not a true link. What I am saying is maybe you need to look and see if you have something like this where a link should be; if it gets bumped around, perhaps it breaks it's contact and you are not able to start it everytime. Here is a picture of what I have. Good luck to you.
Finally figured it out, there was a bad splice in the wire sending the power to the alternator. Fixed the splice and it fired right up. Thanks everyone for the support and help
that is why I replaced the wiring harness under the hood on my 76 even though I was not having any problems yet, a short can cause the car to catch on fire. Which is cheaper a new wiring harness or a different car?
that is why I replaced the wiring harness under the hood on my 76 even though I was not having any problems yet, a short can cause the car to catch on fire. Which is cheaper a new wiring harness or a different car?
But if it has only one bad connection and it can be easily repaired....why not fix it?
I DO replace a lot of wiring harnesses...but that is usually done due to there are numerous areas where someone got in there and cut it up and poorly attempted to repair it. And it is actually more cost effective to replace the harness than it is to repair it.
01-13-2018, 05:46 PM
77 no start no lights no power
