vetteguy75

I know how they turn regular rotors, but how is it done in a rotor that has holes and the slots? Do they use a different type of cutting head? I would like to have mine done, but not sure how it's done....

mrvette

No can do, rotors have to be severely warped or really scoured badly to be unserviceable, if they are that bad, replace them is the only way....

I never turn ANY rotor, there are reasons for that, but too long a post...

STL 71 C3

throw away society we live in but the rotors can be turned just like any without being drilled and slotted. The lathe doesnt care if it has holes, it will just make it flat.

I would like to hear why someone would NEVER turn a rotor though....^^^

7T1vette

Turning the rotor is not the problem. Fixturing the rotor properly so that the machining is 'true' to the central axis of the part is what usually goes wrong. A rotor with holes/slots can be turned on a lathe just like a stock one...but it may need a different type of tooling, feed/speed changes because of the intermittant machining cut required for that kind of part.

In the end, you might have a hard time finding a shop that will do them...and do them right. And when you do find one, it may be nearly as costly as replacing the parts with new ones.

Still worth a try, though. Just make sure you clearly describe the kind of part you have and the quality expectations you want (max. amount of surface runout for the part) when you get quotes over the phone.

Mike Ward

I'll never understand the compulsion so many owners have to 'turn the rotors' on their C3s. It's a complete waste of money- but there again so is paying extra for slotted and drilled rotors...................

Marlin

Thats false.


When you have a high spot on a regular rotor the cutter will cut from the low to high at a gradual rate. If it tries to cut too much it just slows down or stops.

When you have drilled/slotted there is a break in the metal so it goes from one spot to a high spot with out the incline and the cutter hits it straight on and breaks the cutter. You can turn with a regular lathe but you have to measure the high spot and take very very small cuts to make sure you don’t go from a low to high spot between the drill/slotted cuts. Problem is most shops are not going to invest that much time to do it and even if they do they will want to charge you for any cutters that break and the extra time to baby sit the lathe.

I had some drilled/slotted rotors and no one around here will touch them due to the time to cut and/or the cutters that break trying.

Also rotors are pure metal so just put them in your recycle bin. They should not be thrown away with the trash. They will get melted and used again. Better yet pick up others rotors and scrap metal and recycle for money.

Marlin

The rotors on our cars are very think due to the old style design. So making a small cut within spec is fine and will not have the issues newwer cars have.
With the need to get gas milage up; many car companys use the thinnest metal they can get away with so cutting many of those is a waste IMO. But older cars like the C3 should have plenty to cut and not have any issues.

Only issues is cost. Many charge about what you can get new rotors for. So if you have basic rotors then just recycle them and get new ones. But if you have higher end ones then call around and weigh the options.

Mike Ward

You missed the point- the rotors don't need 'turning' in 99.9% of cases. Why do it?

Marlin

^

I was talking in general when they do need to be cut/replaced. Your point is a whole other can of worms.

chevymans 77

Find a local machine shop with a grinding fixture for the lathe.

This is the correct way to re-finish a rotor and leave the correct finish, the holes and slots will not effect the process.

Neal

STL 71 C3

not going to argue but what I said is not false.

The part doing the cutting is stationary, the rotor moves.

If someone actually knows how to use a lathe it would be no different than cutting a rotor without being drilled and slotted...that's what you're trying to do, get rid of high and low spots, make the surface flat and square with center line

Marlin

I use to be a tech and have used lathes many times; What i said is true.

If the cutter is set low and it gets to a high spot after a drill/slot if will hit the cutter hard enough to break.

If you set a cutter to low on a regular rotor worse case it just slows down or the rotor will lock up from to much trying to be cut.

Ironcross

If some dummy runs there brakes into the rotor it either has to be cut or if really bad below specs, replaced...the problem with slotted rotors is the tool bit will skip when hitting a hole...a rotor machine capable of grinding will solve the issue...however that requires more time and higher cost to cut....and since the Chinese has penetrated the automotive field, slotted rotors look attractive cheap at the cost issue and for bench racing at the local pop stand car shows...like bragging rights .....the way to beat it is to don't buy slotted rotors...Vettes stop with the OE stuff 99% of the time as fast as slotted stuff...{notice the 99%}...............

rdroe

I have to agree with the camp of *never turn rotors*. I used to turn them back in the 70's working in a garage when in college. We usually did it to just skim off a bit to give the new pads a good break-in seat. I have x-drilled rotors and take issue with *not needing them* as I run it hard (VIR, Summit, etc) and they bring me right down without issue AND without fade. I just do it for fun and FUN it is! So my x-drilled rotors and I are very happy together!

Paul Marglin

I was doing a simple Google search on turning drilled slotted and came across this post. As I read the replys I realize people feel the need to make comments about things that they have no clue or experience with. I find a lot of good info on these various forums but, you have to wade through post from people who can't even read the original post. People love to hear their own voice, no matter what they are saying.

TimAT

One part that many people miss on Corvette rotors-- the caliper is fixed and the pads have to move via hydraulics. If you cut one side more than the other, the rotor is no longer "centered" in the caliper.

Dusky

Can't see that being An issue after the first time you press the pedal though.

F4Gary

Thank you for your contribution.