Options for 1971 Spark Plug Wires
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Options for 1971 Spark Plug Wires
I currently have Lectic Limited reproduction spark plug wires with carbon cores. I'm having problems with them and and wonder what other options I have. Are the copper core, etc that much better than the carbon core ones for performance? What about noise suppression for the radio? Too bad Lectric Limted or someone else doesn't offer reproduction plug wires with newer technology.
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for your input.
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Clear Lake Shores Texas
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2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I had problems with those wires as well on my 72 LT-1, they seemed to be very fragile. I went with some run of the mill Delco wires and have had no issues, including radio noise.
#4
go with any of the modern 7mm spiral core wires such as below
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...model/corvette
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...model/corvette
#5
Le Mans Master
Taylor Spiro-Pro Spark Plug Wire Sets 73051
I agree with Mel's recommendation, but I've also used these Taylor wires on a number of small block Chevy's as well. They are 8mm, but I've never encountered any problems getting them under the factory shielding or through the 4-hole loom where they go under the distributor shielding. They also use a silicone inner and outer jacket like most hi-performance wires.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-73051
They're considered universal, so they require that you cut them to length and add the distributor/terminal end. This makes them easier to install (especially behind the motor mount) if you're using factory shielding.
I like to start with the longest wire (at the spark plug end) and run them one at a time through/behind the factory shielding and stick them into the distributor cap without cutting them. Once they are all run and you are sure they fit correctly on the lower part of the engine, I cut them one at a time and insert the end through the boot (a bit of silicone spray on the boot makes them go together easier) and then crimp the ends on.
Good luck... GUSTO
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-73051
They're considered universal, so they require that you cut them to length and add the distributor/terminal end. This makes them easier to install (especially behind the motor mount) if you're using factory shielding.
I like to start with the longest wire (at the spark plug end) and run them one at a time through/behind the factory shielding and stick them into the distributor cap without cutting them. Once they are all run and you are sure they fit correctly on the lower part of the engine, I cut them one at a time and insert the end through the boot (a bit of silicone spray on the boot makes them go together easier) and then crimp the ends on.
Good luck... GUSTO
#6
Team Owner
I remember running the old solid core wires back in the day, and once I got caught at a light side by side with the police, he pulled me over and wrote me for everything, as my header mufflers were pretty blown out, and he got instant static from my ignition system on his radio, especially when I tried to pull away gently from the light. He waited so he could drop in behind me and light me up! Those were the old L88 Orange wires.
Last edited by TCracingCA; 01-24-2018 at 09:37 PM.
#7
Le Mans Master
I remember running the old solid core wires back in the day, and once I got caught at a light side by side with the police, he pulled me over and wrote me for everything, as my header mufflers were pretty blown out, and he got instant static from my ignition system on his radio, especially when I tried to pull away gently from the light. He waited so he could drop in behind me and light me up! Those were the old L88 Orange wires.
GUSTO
#8
Team Owner
What's the gap on your plugs? With that wire, you probably need to keep it at .035". You might get miss condition if gap is larger.
The problem still could be with the cores in the wires.
The problem still could be with the cores in the wires.