OK, so I am at the point where I want to upgrade my engine. Currently I have a crate 350/290 to which I added vortec heads and Comp XE268 cam. It runs nice, but it just doesn't have enough power. There are also some issues, like I wiped a cam a couple years ago and never rebuilt it after that, so that plays into it a little.

Anyways, I did a very complete comparison of the total costs of buying vs building a 383. I am looking at a Blueprint 383 (dressed) for $4655 plus all the extra little stuff which comes to $6335. A build starting with a Summit block comes in at $6772. So unless I am missing something, it's cheaper to just by the BP383. Note that this is the upper end of my budget also, and it's really more than I want to spend on my toy but I think I can find the funding (i.e. hide it from the wife ). I also included everything I could think of including tools like a hoist and engine stand in both.

I have also done a lot of research on Blueprint engines and I think they are a good choice. There are a ton of people/reviews on Summit and none are bad. They also have a good warranty. I don't have a problem with going that way. I'm just surprised that doing a build wouldn't be cheaper. I also know it totally depends on what parts you are using. I tried to keep the parts mostly in the same ball park. For example, the heads I picked were actually Blueprint H8002K heads.

Here are a couple screen shots of the spreadsheet I used to compare the options.

One other thing that I would say is that I really wanted to build my own engine and I though that would be cool to do, but if it's actually more money that I won't do it.

Thoughts??






OPTION 1 - BUY



OPTION 2 - BUILD

 

Same question

Glenn in San Diego

 

A couple more notes:

1. I'm not including a distributor because I have a new MSD 8360 and I will use that.
2. I am including a new clutch because the McLeod Street Pro I have is only rated to 300 HP.

 

What about something already or built to order by a recommended local speed shop?

 

I haven't checked that out yet, something I need to do.

 

I kept on looking at the same things.
One advantage to the new motors is that you get a 4 bolt main, and they are set up for a roller cam. The one piece main seal is nice, but requires a new flywheel.

 

It is MUCH cheaper to just buy one built than to build one.
I know, I built my 383 over the course of two years.
Mine was closer to $9k all said and done, but my heads were more than twice what you have listed for price.

But I wanted a driver side dipstick, and PCV vented block.

Don't forget Carb, intake, exhaust etc if not using your existing parts.
All the little bits, bolts, hose clamps etc add up.
Pilot bearing, throwout bearing, flywheel, tools. (to align bellhousing, to install oil pump pickup tube, engine stands, hoist rental etc..)

And...shipping on everything....

 

I build my own.....that way I know the measurements are right on everything....
I can build any small block combo for cheaper than you can buy until you add my labor....sometimes with labor I can beat it....
but I once built engines for a living....so I am biased.

Jebby

 

Yes, that was on the requirement list: 4 bolt main, one piece seal roller block, aluminum heads, 10:1 or less compression, 425 HP min., roller cam., good streetability/vacuum, has to fit... etc

 

If you are buying every single part new, then yes this is true.

If you are using an existing block, reusing parts such as thermostat housing, etc then it is not necessarily a lot more to build it yourself.

 

That is absolutely true.

I think the Blueprint Engines are a good deal though.

 

This question has been popping up a lot lately. Will give you my two cents based on experience. You are much better off having someone local do machine work for you than buying a crate that who knows how good the work is. Now I didn’t say necessarily the cheapest way. The basic machine work is the most important part of having an engine last. But everyone wants to spend the money on all the bolt in go fast parts. Someone local knows if this engine doesn’t perform, you are going to show up on his doorstep. Check these crate motor warranties too. Most that I have seen, force you to remove and transport the engine to them, with no guarantee of coverage.

The 502 crate my 69 had in it when I bought it had 7500 miles on it. It used a quart of oil every 400 miles, which was common on those 502’s. I asked around, and found a local race engine builder everyone seemed to recommend. We used the block and crank from my crate but redid everything else. It has been a terrific trouble free engine for 15 years now. Just had him look it over and do a cam change and all was good. He once told me of some of the crate engines he has had in his shop to fix. One 632 from a well know crate supplier was there when mine was. So my advice would be try to use parts from your old engine, maybe buy a stroker crank and bare cylinder heads and find someone really good local to you and build a relationship with them. Let them do the machine work and you can put it together yourself. Good luck!

Bill

 

If it were me and I was considering a BP 383, I would go with the 'long block' (no intake, carb, distributor). That is only because I want it to all fit under the hood with my low-riser intake, q-jet, stock air cleaner, etc.

 

https://www.tristarengines.com/

 

VortecPro builds small blocks. Based off his big block prices a small block may be within reason

Or pm C3 Stroker, he's in Ohio and has thread going about his new small block. Maybe his builder can do a 383 for you?

 

When I went to a 383, the block that was in the vette was a replacement and not the original. It was a 4 bolt main, but a 2 piece rear seal. Since the crank was being replaced, I didn't worry about the 2 piece seal. I did save money working with that block.

 

It's always a concern about how the clearances are and will it be an oil pumper, but if there is good feedback from the supplier, Summit, it is probably the way to roll. Myself, I build my own engines, but have a friend that's the owner of a machine shop and knows his way around Chevys.

 

"Since the crank was being replaced, I didn't worry about the 2 piece seal. "

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the practical difference between a two piece and one piece rear seal?
And how does a new crank effect that?

 

So, you have a 350-290 crate engine. So put a 3.75 crank in that engine. Easy half of your arts list is stuff that is installed on your current engine. The crate engine pronably doesn't even need bored.

 

Buy the heads, cam, intake, headers you plan on using on the 383 and put them in-on the 350. 33 cubic inches ain't that much more.