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As the RH headlight door opens on my '69 there's a point in its travel where the rear edge of it barely clears the body. When it's opened ~1-1/2" the clearance is only .015" as measured with a feeler gauge. Car is in bare fiberglass and with the additional thickness of paint and primer, it's likely to scrape. The LH door does not have this problem. When closed both doors fit flush with the body with uniform gaps. Is there any adjustment to correct this? If not, what might the solution be?
There are 3 1/2 in nuts holding the 2 swivels on. If you loosen them there is adjustment. You have to take grille off to access inside ones which are not bad to get at but the 3 outside are tougher. I take the bumper support off inside the wheel well and in by headlight to get hand up. Can't see from pic if there is room to move forward but probably.
As luck would have it if you look down in tech section Willcox posted videos. In there you will see one called headlight alignment
Last edited by henrikse; Feb 12, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
Reason: added video line
Hi C,
Here's a photo of one of the adjustable pivot bushings for the headlight door that henrikse describes.
In addition to being able to adjust the position of the bushings there is also a round 'stop' on the headlight door studs that pivot in the bushings that controls it's side to side movement.
Perhaps take a look at that too. It uses an Allen wrench for it's fastener.
Regards,
Alan
The bushing and round 'stop'.
The bolts used to adjust the bushings location to use for position the door in the head light door opening in the hood surround.
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I am aware of the adjustments you have suggested and fiddled with them extensively, as well as shimming the housing, to get the door lids to fit flush to the body while having even gaps all around. I'm going to try experimenting with the range of up and down adjustment of the pivot bushings while compensating with shim thickness. (ie. pivots adjusted all the way up with thick housing shims vs. pivots all the way down with thin or no shims) Maybe there's a sweet spot where adequate clearance is achieved while keeping the lid flush to the body.
Doug,
In the photo it 'appears' the center of the door has more 'thickness' than it has near it's sides.
Does it?
Is the door 'warped' even a little?
It's made from a pretty odd mix and warping has been seen.
Is the door moved too far to the rear in the opening? Is that contributing to the clash?
Regards,
Alan
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I am aware of the adjustments you have suggested and fiddled with them extensively, as well as shimming the housing, to get the door lids to fit flush to the body while having even gaps all around. I'm going to try experimenting with the range of up and down adjustment of the pivot bushings while compensating with shim thickness. (ie. pivots adjusted all the way up with thick housing shims vs. pivots all the way down with thin or no shims) Maybe there's a sweet spot where adequate clearance is achieved while keeping the lid flush to the body.
I "fiddled" with mine for several hours and all the adjustment in the world would not keep the doors from touching the body. I decided to take the hinge points out. Discovered they were pretty worn and had a lot of slop. New ones solved the problem.
In the photo it 'appears' the center of the door has more 'thickness' than it has near it's sides.
Does it?
No, but the underside at the edge is chamfered unevenly - less in the center, more near the corners.
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Is the door 'warped' even a little?
Yes, they both are very slightly but, that doesn't seem to be an issue.
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Is the door moved too far to the rear in the opening? Is that contributing to the clash?
I don't believe so. The gap in front is equal to the gap at the rear.
Originally Posted by flyeri
I "fiddled" with mine for several hours and all the adjustment in the world would not keep the doors from touching the body. I decided to take the hinge points out. Discovered they were pretty worn and had a lot of slop. New ones solved the problem.
Thanks for that suggestion flyeri but, the assemblies have been rebuilt with all new springs and bushings and the pivots have little or no play.
FWIW, I was able to increase the amount of clearance from .015" to ~ 1/16" by raising the pivot points ~1/8" and re-shimming the housing to make the lid flush with the body again. Still not enough though.
Issue With RH Headlight Door Clearance
