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I bought a tachboard from Willcox sometime back for my '79 and finally I had time to day to install it. After zeroing it out I attempted to test it but it was DOA. I put back the old board, and it worked fine. .The reason I am replacing the original board it is because it is running about 25% higher than the actual RPM (when compared to an inductive meter). Hopefully it's just a bad board - but then again I know Willcox takes pride in what he sells. Weird.
Willcox and original boards shown below for reference
Don't look like the same circuits. Components different. Are you sure it is the correct one?
YES...due to improvements in current electrical circuit technology...they are visibly different but that has nothing to do with it. I know it is not working like he wrote...but how it looks is not causing that.
My Willcox tach board seems to have died on me as well after being installed less than 6 months (or so it seems based on my testing/troubleshooting using their online info)...
I've contacted them, and we'll see what the resolution is. I prefer to promote/purchase from forum supporters, and I've been happy with their products in the past, so I feel they'll respond well.
No resolution yet. I did share all the info and videos I made (see below) and he seem to think that I did not connect it correctly during testing (don't think so, I have tried several times) - by the time I got his response, I put the old one back in and it works but it's just not accurate. He did offer for me to send both the board and tach to tune it in but I am not sure I want to be shipping the actual tach and hope for the best. I have other drive-ability issues with the Vette at the moment so this has taken a back set.
I support online vendors and Willcox does offer a lot of information other vendors do not - he did toss the ball on my court but have not had a need to pursue it right at this moment. Let us know how your experience is.
First off, email me direct at Service@Willcoxcorvette.com. But have you doubled checked the nuts on the board. When you apply power to the board and it goes to 4500 that tells me one of the nuts on the board is possibly loose or possibly one of the studs isn't tight. But the most common issue when a board goes to 4500 is either the sine or co-sine nut is loose or not making good contact. Back them off then re-tighten them.
You can send the tach assembly to me and I can put it on my tester as well.. but email me first.
Hi Willcox. I have sent an email to the address you specified. The tach was working fine after board replacement 6 months ago or so, but suddenly the needle stays stuck in one place with no movement (car on or off- makes no difference). I have followed your troubleshooting tips to determine good ground and power at the clips, but the needle does not zero.
I'm happy to troubleshoot further if there are steps available.
A) Something spiked the board
B) Board failure.
C) Analog movement failed
The only way I would know is to have you mail me the tach with the board. I have the equipment to test both individually and together.
If you look at our board, it's fused. it's a light blue/green fuse with a single stripe on it.... It's located above the large ceramic resistor. If you look at the board on the front you'll see the stud hole marked 12v, and you'll see the stud hole for the coil... the fuse is on top at abut the 2' o'clock position. If you test continuity of this fuse it should pass continuity, if you don't you've blown the fuse and will need to send just the board to me.
Well, I have continuity on the fuse, so it looks as if I'll be sending board, tach, and all to you. Should I remove the needle or simply leave in place and bubble-wrap?
Well, I have continuity on the fuse, so it looks as if I'll be sending board, tach, and all to you. Should I remove the needle or simply leave in place and bubble-wrap?
(Continuity tested across this piece here.)
Yes you are correct, that is the fuse...
Send the tach, board and leave the needle on.. won't make a difference but makes it easier to ship...
Send it to:
Willcox Inc. c/o Gauge repair.
123 E. Maple Street
Jeffersonville, In 47130
Shipping will let me know when it arrives and I'll figure out what the issue is.
@Wilcox - I sent you a follow-on email yesterday with more information about getting credit for the bad board that I have. I was wondering if you had a chance to read it?
@Wilcox - I sent you a follow-on email yesterday with more information about getting credit for the bad board that I have. I was wondering if you had a chance to read it?
Thanks.
Nope.. won't be in my office until Monday, I'm out of town.
But as I said in other emails send me the board and tach... Just like the OP...
What was the verdict? A ground tracer was burned on the board. Why I have no idea, but the tracer from the ground to the chip on the board was toasted and barely visible to the eye. I'll see your email on Monday.
I've had one bad board in the last three years.... so, while electrical items are not returnable I can usually fix anything cooked on a board. Any correspondence should be directed at Service@Willcoxcorvette.com too.. it bounces to my phone.
As Willcox said- apparently an almost undetectable trace was toasted on the ground side. The board looked fine to my eyes, and I'm not sure why there would have been a spike on the ground side. "Most" of my electrical gremlins have been smoothed out over the past few years as I've worked on the car... but you never know with the plastic fantastic I guess.
Willcox has repairs made and my tach is on its way back to me. Thanks Ernie!
As Willcox said- apparently an almost undetectable trace was toasted on the ground side. The board looked fine to my eyes, and I'm not sure why there would have been a spike on the ground side. "Most" of my electrical gremlins have been smoothed out over the past few years as I've worked on the car... but you never know with the plastic fantastic I guess.
Willcox has repairs made and my tach is on its way back to me. Thanks Ernie!
Here is a picture of the burned trace... and as I stated above, unless you're looking for it you won't see it.... it doesn't look like much, but it is the cause of the board failure. This almost makes me want to fuse the ground side of the board as well as the positive side.
Like I said above, we've only had one defective board in three years and the issue was a bad chip which can happen but without having the board here to test I can't tell squat.
Willcox tachboard woes
