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Quite a few years ago, replaced the defective tach filter with a replacement. Not, when rpm's go over 2500+, tach just jumps around. Does this mean the tach filter is bad - again. Do I really need one. Did not observe any abnormalities when not having filter. Thinking about going back to no filter again.
Wire broke at my orig tach filter. Tried running without and the needle went haywire. Fab'd one from Radio Shak parts and it worked for a while. Then, I found a tach filter from a late 70's-early 80's (Monte, Regal, Cutlass) G-body for $25 on eBay and no issues since. Direct replacement parts.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Is the tach filter really needed? Well, that depends. If your tach signal is clean, then no. example: Electrical noise generated by a modern HEI ignition system can make tach readings appear erratic. The remedy to this is to add a tach filter to “clean up” the noisy signal, and therefore smooth out the reading on the gauge. Hope this helps.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Feb 20, 2018 at 11:18 AM.
Just depends on how noisy the signal is. I have a MSD HEI ignition module installed in my GM distributor. Haven't had a filter on the car for 15+ years with no issues.
I have a 78. Where is this filter located? I thought this was for radio interference?
Looking at the engine from the passenger side fender, it is just forward and below the base of the distributor (between distributor and carburetor). It is much more visible with air cleaner and EGR valve removed.
I had to remove the filter when using the signal from my MSD-6 box. It would read ok up to about 3500 rpm, but as soon as I went above that it would immediately start cycling wildly. I read up on it, removed the tach filter, and it was immediately noticeable on my next outing that the tach no longer bounced, and that it was nice and steady up to my 5800-6000 rpm limit....with no bouncing.
I had to remove the filter when using the signal from my MSD-6 box. It would read ok up to about 3500 rpm, but as soon as I went above that it would immediately start cycling wildly. I read up on it, removed the tach filter, and it was immediately noticeable on my next outing that the tach no longer bounced, and that it was nice and steady up to my 5800-6000 rpm limit....with no bouncing.
The tach filter has nothing to do with radio interference. It is there to clean out the random high frequency spikes [noise] in the vehicle's DC wiring/ignition system. Do you NEED it? Only if you want to be sure that the tach is reasonably accurate.
Can someone's tach work without "jumping" if it does not have the tach filter installed? ........maybe.......
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 23, 2018 at 02:45 AM.