Header/Oil pan Clearance
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
Header/Oil pan Clearance
I purchased a Moroso oil pan for my 496 which has a 8 inch deep and 10.5 inch wide sump.
I'm getting ready to order my headers and at this point I'm looking at the Hedmans 2" long tube, ceramic coated headers.
I'm just checking clearance for the headers as they pass the oil pan sump.
Is anyone running headers with a wide sump pan?
If so did you have any clearance issues?
I'm getting ready to order my headers and at this point I'm looking at the Hedmans 2" long tube, ceramic coated headers.
I'm just checking clearance for the headers as they pass the oil pan sump.
Is anyone running headers with a wide sump pan?
If so did you have any clearance issues?
Last edited by OldCarBum; Feb 28, 2018 at 10:16 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 235
Likes: 28
From: Fort McMurray Alberta
I purchased a Moroso oil pan for my 496 which has a 8 inch deep and 10.5 inch wide sump.
I'm getting ready to order my headers and at this point I'm looking at the Hedmans 2" long tube, ceramic coated headers.
I'm just checking clearance for the headers as they pass the oil pan sump.
Is anyone running headers with a wide sump pan?
If so did you have any clearance issues?
I'm getting ready to order my headers and at this point I'm looking at the Hedmans 2" long tube, ceramic coated headers.
I'm just checking clearance for the headers as they pass the oil pan sump.
Is anyone running headers with a wide sump pan?
If so did you have any clearance issues?
I am running the same set up with lots of room. Give me a few minutes and I'll run out and take a few pics for you.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 235
Likes: 28
From: Fort McMurray Alberta
I purchased a Moroso oil pan for my 496 which has a 8 inch deep and 10.5 inch wide sump.
I'm getting ready to order my headers and at this point I'm looking at the Hedmans 2" long tube, ceramic coated headers.
I'm just checking clearance for the headers as they pass the oil pan sump.
Is anyone running headers with a wide sump pan?
If so did you have any clearance issues?
I'm getting ready to order my headers and at this point I'm looking at the Hedmans 2" long tube, ceramic coated headers.
I'm just checking clearance for the headers as they pass the oil pan sump.
Is anyone running headers with a wide sump pan?
If so did you have any clearance issues?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 235
Likes: 28
From: Fort McMurray Alberta
One tube is very close on the the drivers side to the flaming river steering shaft u joint for the speed direct rack and pinion. I put a small simply in it just because the clearance was closer than I was comfortable with. It's steering after all.
One tube is really close to the frame on the right side. I took a 2x4 and flattened one tube slightly. Maybe 1/8". Not much.
Might be because of the raised port on the heads.
Other than that they're easy to install. Lots of room that way. Pop them up from the bottom.
One tube is really close to the frame on the right side. I took a 2x4 and flattened one tube slightly. Maybe 1/8". Not much.
Might be because of the raised port on the heads.
Other than that they're easy to install. Lots of room that way. Pop them up from the bottom.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The next thing that you need to think about is the tranny cross member. I suggest using a cross member that the exhaust passes under. I made my own back in the 80's, but now you can buy an aftermarket like the "Bowtie Overdrives" the TKO 600 uses the same tranny position mount as a 700R4. It makes it easy to do a straight back 3 inch exhaust
You want to end up with @ 2 degrees down angle on the drive shaft. I jacked the rear of the tranny until I got the 2 degree and then I milled a block of aluminum and bored a couple of holes in it for the mounting bolts. I just did a 69 a few months ago and used the degree level App on my phone
My chromemoly drive shaft came with 1330 U-joints with 12 point bolts
Just repainted the Cross m for the new tko install with blow proof bell housing and 22 pound SFI billet steel flywheel
You want to end up with @ 2 degrees down angle on the drive shaft. I jacked the rear of the tranny until I got the 2 degree and then I milled a block of aluminum and bored a couple of holes in it for the mounting bolts. I just did a 69 a few months ago and used the degree level App on my phone
My chromemoly drive shaft came with 1330 U-joints with 12 point boltsJust repainted the Cross m for the new tko install with blow proof bell housing and 22 pound SFI billet steel flywheel
Last edited by gkull; Mar 1, 2018 at 04:52 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Because I was racing over the years I always had to have SFI everything. From the Damper on back. But on the other side I always felt better about not being injured by stuff going wrong. I've had over 7000 rpm motors
I went to Bonneville Salt flats years ago and it scared me of the drive shaft rpm of a .70 OD and 4.11 rear end. Smarter people use a 1-1 top gear and low ratio rear ends. I was into drag racing back then and you never used the OD gear. Hence the drive shaft loop before showing up. It was required, but peace of mind.
Your 496 needs a 3 inch exhaust with a H or even X pipe
I went to Bonneville Salt flats years ago and it scared me of the drive shaft rpm of a .70 OD and 4.11 rear end. Smarter people use a 1-1 top gear and low ratio rear ends. I was into drag racing back then and you never used the OD gear. Hence the drive shaft loop before showing up. It was required, but peace of mind.
Your 496 needs a 3 inch exhaust with a H or even X pipe
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
Your 496 needs a 3 inch exhaust with a H or even X pipe[/QUOTE]
Thanks,
I've heard 2.5 to 3 inch with a good flowing system all the way out the back.
I'll have some time yet to research anything back from the headers.
Once I have everything for the motor, then its to the transmission, and then the IRS.
Thanks,
I've heard 2.5 to 3 inch with a good flowing system all the way out the back.
I'll have some time yet to research anything back from the headers.
Once I have everything for the motor, then its to the transmission, and then the IRS.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I don't know the status of "Tom's Differentials" these days, but I have all of Tom's parts.
I used to break the posi housings on an annual basis. big tires and 4.11 and WOT going around turns just hammers the posi cross pin and elongates the case hole. Then at some point it just wedges and cracks the case. Then I would limp home with the rear end making bad noises. I took a look at the posi cases and said to myself, " Why don't they make a posi case with a larger diameter cross pin?" This is before Al Gore created the internet in the late 80's and some how I heard about toms differentials. I had also destroyed a couple of outer axles.
So anyway from Toms' I bought the billet steel ring gear cap, the $2200~ rear kit with 1350 u-joint half shafts, outers....... and the best stage 7 posi unit. I'm on the second one in nearly 30 years vs nearly annually for the stock and Auburn type. from Mid America I already had the custom hardend yokes for about $400 each.
You can tap the diff for a Allen drain plug.
Just keep throwing money at it and you will be up and running before summer!
I used to break the posi housings on an annual basis. big tires and 4.11 and WOT going around turns just hammers the posi cross pin and elongates the case hole. Then at some point it just wedges and cracks the case. Then I would limp home with the rear end making bad noises. I took a look at the posi cases and said to myself, " Why don't they make a posi case with a larger diameter cross pin?" This is before Al Gore created the internet in the late 80's and some how I heard about toms differentials. I had also destroyed a couple of outer axles.
So anyway from Toms' I bought the billet steel ring gear cap, the $2200~ rear kit with 1350 u-joint half shafts, outers....... and the best stage 7 posi unit. I'm on the second one in nearly 30 years vs nearly annually for the stock and Auburn type. from Mid America I already had the custom hardend yokes for about $400 each.
You can tap the diff for a Allen drain plug.
Just keep throwing money at it and you will be up and running before summer!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
I don't know the status of "Tom's Differentials" these days, but I have all of Tom's parts.
I used to break the posi housings on an annual basis. big tires and 4.11 and WOT going around turns just hammers the posi cross pin and elongates the case hole. Then at some point it just wedges and cracks the case. Then I would limp home with the rear end making bad noises. I took a look at the posi cases and said to myself, " Why don't they make a posi case with a larger diameter cross pin?" This is before Al Gore created the internet in the late 80's and some how I heard about toms differentials. I had also destroyed a couple of outer axles.
So anyway from Toms' I bought the billet steel ring gear cap, the $2200~ rear kit with 1350 u-joint half shafts, outers....... and the best stage 7 posi unit. I'm on the second one in nearly 30 years vs nearly annually for the stock and Auburn type. from Mid America I already had the custom hardend yokes for about $400 each.
You can tap the diff for a Allen drain plug.
Just keep throwing money at it and you will be up and running before summer!
I used to break the posi housings on an annual basis. big tires and 4.11 and WOT going around turns just hammers the posi cross pin and elongates the case hole. Then at some point it just wedges and cracks the case. Then I would limp home with the rear end making bad noises. I took a look at the posi cases and said to myself, " Why don't they make a posi case with a larger diameter cross pin?" This is before Al Gore created the internet in the late 80's and some how I heard about toms differentials. I had also destroyed a couple of outer axles.
So anyway from Toms' I bought the billet steel ring gear cap, the $2200~ rear kit with 1350 u-joint half shafts, outers....... and the best stage 7 posi unit. I'm on the second one in nearly 30 years vs nearly annually for the stock and Auburn type. from Mid America I already had the custom hardend yokes for about $400 each.
You can tap the diff for a Allen drain plug.
Just keep throwing money at it and you will be up and running before summer!
I'm collecting all my parts and pieces before I pull the body.
So far I have my complete new suspension, complete new new brake system, wheels, almost everything for my 496 build and many other items.
All new and boxed up on shelves in my garage.
Once I get my TKO600 and rear end upgrade parts, I'll start and pull the body.
Thanks again for all the tips as I move forward.
Greg
Last edited by OldCarBum; Mar 2, 2018 at 11:25 AM.