Billet Alum. Trailing arms ?
#5
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
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I like chunks of aluminum!!!!!
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Fredtoo (03-15-2018)
#9
Drifting
Like we say in the stone business...The trailing arms are already there....You just have to carve away everything that isn't a trailing arm.
What program are you using to draw up the 3d arms....?
Brian
What program are you using to draw up the 3d arms....?
Brian
#12
Team Owner
So 6061, 7075, or a356?
I am a rod and heim guy on two cars, and I modified some Van Steel offsets for the third car, and the fourth has basically strengthened stock arms!
I am trying to think of the pros and cons of this endeavor and it sounds like a cool thought, so I am subscribed! I have changed or made many pieces in one car out of alternate lighter weight materials! At one time I was buying titanium bolts a few each week replacing the steel ones around the car! I started with all of the bumpers! Ultimately I did new bumper braces to in titanium. But since I just took them off again, to return to the race configuration (no bumpers at all). So I will transfer those cool parts for the bumpers over to one of my other cars. On my 1963 autocross car, I have C2 styled fiberglass bumpers front and rear, chrome paint painted. Then I found hollowed drilled ones and did like the intake manifold bolts and other locations! My seat brackets and things were all drilled! Then I found other things to drill holes into to lighten. But then I bought aftermarket seat braces and still lightened those further and put back in my holstered Mini Cooper Paddy Hopkirk aluminum framed bolstered seats from the 1960s, instead of the more modern non-Vintage lightweight nonholstered racing seats that were sold in the car to me. Lightening our pigs, has been a fun endeavor! Seems having all Race stuff, makes the car heavier- like the two piece scattershield, the 4340 steel crank fully circular weighted, the k-Rods even thou profiled, beefier this and that elsewhere. So keeping it all well under 3k, but I haven't taken it down to the scales for many years.
I just think if you pattern the stock arms in dimension, they will crack at the nose end down near the forward bushing end!
I am a rod and heim guy on two cars, and I modified some Van Steel offsets for the third car, and the fourth has basically strengthened stock arms!
I am trying to think of the pros and cons of this endeavor and it sounds like a cool thought, so I am subscribed! I have changed or made many pieces in one car out of alternate lighter weight materials! At one time I was buying titanium bolts a few each week replacing the steel ones around the car! I started with all of the bumpers! Ultimately I did new bumper braces to in titanium. But since I just took them off again, to return to the race configuration (no bumpers at all). So I will transfer those cool parts for the bumpers over to one of my other cars. On my 1963 autocross car, I have C2 styled fiberglass bumpers front and rear, chrome paint painted. Then I found hollowed drilled ones and did like the intake manifold bolts and other locations! My seat brackets and things were all drilled! Then I found other things to drill holes into to lighten. But then I bought aftermarket seat braces and still lightened those further and put back in my holstered Mini Cooper Paddy Hopkirk aluminum framed bolstered seats from the 1960s, instead of the more modern non-Vintage lightweight nonholstered racing seats that were sold in the car to me. Lightening our pigs, has been a fun endeavor! Seems having all Race stuff, makes the car heavier- like the two piece scattershield, the 4340 steel crank fully circular weighted, the k-Rods even thou profiled, beefier this and that elsewhere. So keeping it all well under 3k, but I haven't taken it down to the scales for many years.
I just think if you pattern the stock arms in dimension, they will crack at the nose end down near the forward bushing end!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 03-15-2018 at 11:27 AM.
#14
Racer
Are you going to use bushings or Johnny Joints at the front of those?
I think the Johnny Joints might put less stress on them since they wouldn't be constantly fighting against the bushing to move in their arcs.
I think the Johnny Joints might put less stress on them since they wouldn't be constantly fighting against the bushing to move in their arcs.
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bowtie racing (01-31-2020)
#15
Safety Car
Why not use Chrome molly tubing , make a jig and weld them up. They may end up lighter and stronger that way
#16
Team Owner
I know the Global West units are DOM tube! I don't think Chromoly, because the non-tube portions are steel! But those are about the strongest ones made!
#17
Team Owner
PS the OP probably knocks out Gun receivers on the side!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 03-15-2018 at 01:28 PM.
#18
OK I could build them out of 4130 or DOM, cut and splice but I don't want to copy others as there in it to make money. Me its just for fun I wanted to do something I see in my head. As far as being strong I see no problems. I maybe wrong but after 40 years of doing this stuff I'm not worried. Any way I haven't decided if Im going to use j joints or bushings in the front most likely bushings the alum. is 6061T6 .A lot of parts on these cars way over built but hay there's always the cool factor in a trick part.
Last edited by super charged; 03-16-2018 at 05:54 PM.
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diehrd (03-16-2018)