1977 L82 - Best Way to Correct Leaks
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
1977 L82 - Best Way to Correct Leaks
Helping my buddy on his 1977 L82. Doing brakes now. bottom side is covered with motor oil and hydraulic fluid. More than likely, the PS pump, steering control valve, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets are all leaking. First step will be to clean everything up as much as possible with engine is in car.
Car is driven about once or twice a month.
Need your recommendation on repairing or replacing all these parts. Do you think it would be easier to pull the engine to fix the leaks and replace leaking/worn parts? with engine removed we can easily replace rear main seal. Can oil pan gasket be replaced with engine in the car?
Front sway bar end link bushings are shot, I suspect control arm and shock bushings are the same...I will suggest to him that we replace them at same time.
I have removed and or replaced/repaired all these parts and gaskets on other C3s.
My friend's only costs will be replacement parts and cleaning supplies. I enjoy fixing up these Vettes,
thanks in advance for your suggestions and advice. Tom
Car is driven about once or twice a month.
Need your recommendation on repairing or replacing all these parts. Do you think it would be easier to pull the engine to fix the leaks and replace leaking/worn parts? with engine removed we can easily replace rear main seal. Can oil pan gasket be replaced with engine in the car?
Front sway bar end link bushings are shot, I suspect control arm and shock bushings are the same...I will suggest to him that we replace them at same time.
I have removed and or replaced/repaired all these parts and gaskets on other C3s.
My friend's only costs will be replacement parts and cleaning supplies. I enjoy fixing up these Vettes,
thanks in advance for your suggestions and advice. Tom
#2
Burning Brakes
Before repairing, you need to find the source(s) of the leaks. Suggest raising the front end, spraying on engine degreaser and hitting the underside with a pressure washer. Let it dry, then take it out for a 10 minute drive. Raise the front end again and get under with a light. This will give you a good idea of where any major leaks are.
Post the results, and then perhaps the Forum can give you some specific help.
Post the results, and then perhaps the Forum can give you some specific help.
#3
I would start with the easy and obvious before pulling a motor. That will snowball to more.
Front links are an easy and cheap standalone job - not a big deal, parts are inexpensive and it's just some labor. I would replace the valve cover gaskets first, to eliminate those. Easy and cheap and accessible. Then I would clean everything down with a pressure wash and some cleaner, get it dried out and drive it a bit. You'll find sources of the larger leaks if you have them.
If it gets to oil pans and rear mains (very possible) they can be done in the car but are tougher unless you have a lift and are younger than me, as some of us just can't stand to roll around under these things anymore.
Front links are an easy and cheap standalone job - not a big deal, parts are inexpensive and it's just some labor. I would replace the valve cover gaskets first, to eliminate those. Easy and cheap and accessible. Then I would clean everything down with a pressure wash and some cleaner, get it dried out and drive it a bit. You'll find sources of the larger leaks if you have them.
If it gets to oil pans and rear mains (very possible) they can be done in the car but are tougher unless you have a lift and are younger than me, as some of us just can't stand to roll around under these things anymore.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; 03-22-2018 at 07:37 AM.
#4
Burning Brakes
You will find that chasing/fixing leaks is a never ending task. When I got to the point that you're at and decided it was time to fix them, I ended up replacing valve cover gaskets, balancer seal, PS piston & valve, trans side shift seals, and a brake hose, and replacing the steering box seals and gaskets. I've since had to replace the PS valve again and now it looks like I have a small leak at the front of the oil pan and a MC leak to fix. As I said it never ends.
#8
Le Mans Master
The three, primary sources for engine oil leaks on my SBC:
A couple less likely:
First Solutions that don't require extensive removal:
To resolve my leaking power steering pump, hoses and cylinder, I purchased a rebuilt PS system from Vette Brakes & Products. Van Steel and other suppliers may have a rebuilt PS system. It never leaked again.
- The original oil pan. Either the 4-piece oil pan gasket or the worn drain plug (thanks Jiffy Lube guys). If the drain plug, have the pain/plug repaired with a replacement plug kit OR get a new pan (Milodon is my preference)
- Valve cover gaskets
- Intake manifold gaskets
A couple less likely:
- Timing cover seal where cover meets engine OR, less likely, the seal around the crankshaft snout
- Rear main seal (may require engine removal and will require separation from transmission)
First Solutions that don't require extensive removal:
- 1-piece Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. Apply RTV at each corner where the gasket meets the block (around rear main and the bottom of the timing cover).
- Simple $10 cork valve cover gaskets
- Fel-Pro Intake manifold gaskets (RTV on all corners where the gaskets meet)
To resolve my leaking power steering pump, hoses and cylinder, I purchased a rebuilt PS system from Vette Brakes & Products. Van Steel and other suppliers may have a rebuilt PS system. It never leaked again.
Last edited by TedH; 03-23-2018 at 08:27 AM.
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SpeedRacerMach (04-28-2018)
#9
Burning Brakes
The three, primary sources for engine oil leaks on my SBC:
A couple less likely:
First Solutions that don't require extensive removal:
To resolve my leaking power steering pump, hoses and cylinder, I purchased a rebuilt PS system from Vette Brakes & Products. Van Steel and other suppliers may have a rebuilt PS system. It never leaked again.
- The original oil pan. Either the 4-piece oil pan gasket or the worn drain plug (thanks Jiffy Lube guys). If the drain plug, have the pain/plug repaired with a replacement plug kit OR get a new pan (Milodon is my preference)
- Valve cover gaskets
- Intake manifold gaskets
A couple less likely:
- Timing cover seal where cover meets engine OR, less likely, the seal around the crankshaft snout
- Rear main seal (may require engine removal and will require separation from transmission)
First Solutions that don't require extensive removal:
- 1-piece Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. Apply RTV at each corner where the gasket meets the block (around rear main and the bottom of the timing cover).
- Simple $10 cork valve cover gaskets
- Fel-Pro Intake manifold gaskets (RTV on all corners where the gaskets meet)
To resolve my leaking power steering pump, hoses and cylinder, I purchased a rebuilt PS system from Vette Brakes & Products. Van Steel and other suppliers may have a rebuilt PS system. It never leaked again.
worn drain plug (thanks Jiffy Lube guys).
#10
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '22
they way the engine is in the car and the ability to drop the pan,
all leaks can be fixed without removing engine.
all the things that leak have been mentioned except
sender
dip stick
dist, low chance
find the leaks- assess what order to fix.
know one is dependent on another in some cases.
like pan and timing chain cover and front main seal.
the sbc can be oil leak free
all leaks can be fixed without removing engine.
all the things that leak have been mentioned except
sender
dip stick
dist, low chance
find the leaks- assess what order to fix.
know one is dependent on another in some cases.
like pan and timing chain cover and front main seal.
the sbc can be oil leak free
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SpeedRacerMach (04-28-2018)