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1980 headlight switch replacement

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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 02:37 PM
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Dk Met Grn 80 L82's Avatar
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From: Tee Tops off all year FL
Default 1980 headlight switch replacement

I was able to get the old switch to finally release the shaft and pulled off the electrical connection and removed the switch. What is the trick to get this installed.? I can get my hand back up under there but there is no slack on the electrical connector cable. With one finger and a convoluted arm twisted I can’t seem to get the electrical connector to lineup and attach. Do I attach the switch to the bezel first and then try to get the connector on or vice versa. Any other magic tip is appreciated.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dk Met Grn 80 L82
I was able to get the old switch to finally release the shaft and pulled off the electrical connection and removed the switch. What is the trick to get this installed.? I can get my hand back up under there but there is no slack on the electrical connector cable. With one finger and a convoluted arm twisted I can’t seem to get the electrical connector to lineup and attach. Do I attach the switch to the bezel first and then try to get the connector on or vice versa. Any other magic tip is appreciated.
I dropped the steering column and pull the center gauge cluster out. Takes longer but it's a breeze.

Last edited by Big2Bird; Mar 24, 2018 at 07:51 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 06:37 PM
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I hate to write it but it is a breeze to install when you remove the speedo/tach cluster. keep in mind you are also having to deal with the two vacuum hoses.

I have installed then without taking the speedo/tach cluster out...but your hands can take a beating doing it that way. I removed the two screws on the side of the dash to get it to pull out a bit. Which can give you that little bit of room you need. But you have to be careful.

I connect the electrical connector on the new switch can make sure the vacuum hoses are correctly installed. Becasue if you get them backwards ...the headlight doors will not work correctly and you will have a vacuum leak. BLUE stripe hose goes toward the front of the car.

I have made a tool that allows me to put the nut back into the new switch....thus...the bezel is also installed at the same time.

Then the trick is getting the rod to actually engage into the new switch AFTER you have ti installed. You can install and remove the **** all day long when it is there in your hand...BUT...there are times that when it is installed.. it is off a little bit and the **** will not engage. So...just be aware of this and you might have to remove the switch and 'tweak' it a little using your hand. I have encountered this countless times.

DUB
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 06:50 PM
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i have tried to go short cut by removing minimal things,
got it done but overall there is not much to really
taking it all out. so take it apart
gives you a chance to inspect, not break little tabs,
really understand how things are wired.
fix/improve things.

then you won't have to go in again
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 04:20 PM
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Dk Met Grn 80 L82's Avatar
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From: Tee Tops off all year FL
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Originally Posted by DUB
I hate to write it but it is a breeze to install when you remove the speedo/tach cluster. keep in mind you are also having to deal with the two vacuum hoses.

I have installed then without taking the speedo/tach cluster out...but your hands can take a beating doing it that way. I removed the two screws on the side of the dash to get it to pull out a bit. Which can give you that little bit of room you need. But you have to be careful.

I connect the electrical connector on the new switch can make sure the vacuum hoses are correctly installed. Becasue if you get them backwards ...the headlight doors will not work correctly and you will have a vacuum leak. BLUE stripe hose goes toward the front of the car.

I have made a tool that allows me to put the nut back into the new switch....thus...the bezel is also installed at the same time.

Then the trick is getting the rod to actually engage into the new switch AFTER you have ti installed. You can install and remove the **** all day long when it is there in your hand...BUT...there are times that when it is installed.. it is off a little bit and the **** will not engage. So...just be aware of this and you might have to remove the switch and 'tweak' it a little using your hand. I have encountered this countless times.

DUB
Thanks for the reply’s. I guess no magic trick, I did want to make sure I wasn’t missing something. I did finally get it on without further disassembly. However there is absolutely no room in there. Patience, try it, take a break, try again. Hope for a little luck. One tip I found for others, when removing the rod I could not get it to release no matter how hard I pressed the button. Then I tried pressing the button in while leaning the rod one side or the other and it slid out with almost no pressure. I also had the switch in the center position, don’t know if that mattered or not. When mounting I installed the hoses while hanging down then installed the nut and bezel. Then the electric connector was the difficult item but with it installed it gave me something stable to press on to get it to clip in. However it is a blind install finger manipulation with no room. Like others said it may be easier to go through the speedo gauge opening. Thanks everyone.
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