I wanted to give an update on my 79 upgrades and thank everyone for the input received on this project.
Over the past few weeks I've rebuilt the alternator, installed a new battery and negative batt cable, batt kill switch, cleaned up a bunch of grounds, installed new door weatherstripping and am in the process of installing t top weatherstripping.
I'll be replacing brake calipers, pads, and lines this weekend (front calipers are leaking).

After weighing a number of options I decided to go with a Chevy Performance SP383 Deluxe crate engine (from JEGS) and Tremec TKO 5 speed with automatic to manual conversion kit from Silver Sport Transmission.
I was thinking of going with a rebuild of the existing engine, but for various reasons specific to my application and situation I decided to go the crate engine route.

One of the things I'd like to do on the install is to ensure that I'm aware of most of the potential issues, and that I have all of the parts and components available that we'll need for an efficient installation. I'm going to sit down with my mechanic this weekend and cross check a list of components and parts so that we're not ordering and waiting for parts during the install. I know we'll never get everything, but we want to minimize surprises and waiting for parts.

I'd appreciate input on potential pitfalls and parts that I need to have for a smooth installation.
The engine will include carb, intake, distributor, wires and fuel pump. I'm swapping the single plan intake for dual plane (for hood clearance and better low end performance). The engine comes with a long style water pump. I have some more research to do but think I'll need the short style.
I have some more research to do on flywheel/flexplate. I need to verify oil pan clearance.
I'll be installing a new aluminum radiator with hoses, and a new fuel pump.
Things I need to check further: engine mounts, throttle linkage, proper removal of pollution control items, alternator and ac brackets, and exhaust.

Speaking of exhaust...I will be putting headers and sidepipes on the car. The new engine heads have raised D ports. There arent a lot of headers out there that match directly to D port heads. I know thats not necessary but I've learned of people having issues with round or oval headers matching properly and not leaking.
Being new to this and trying to limit problems, I'm leaning towards Sanderson Shortys CC1DP. I like the shortys because hopefully they will allow the best fitment of the sidepipe exhaust and access to plugs, etc. I know I will sacrifice some performance with shortys and sidepipes vs long tube and rear exhaust.
I'll be using an older manifold during engine break in, and install the new headers after.

I'm sure there are a number of things I havent addressed so I would appreciate any input.

My goal is to partner with my mechanic to minimize surprises and time wasters.

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

You have lots of ideas, but no real questions.
For an alternator the stock 79 doesn't put out enough amps. You are better off using a power master 105. I don't believe in using 130 amp because of the bigger wiring required. calipers see what the cost difference is between stock ss sleeved, and o ringed vs wilwood aluminum replacements

if your mechanic is telling you to buy an externally balanced 383 deluxe motor. It is time to find a new mechanic because he doesn't understand what a quality motor is. External balanced means that it has a poor quality crank and then you are stuck with poor quality dampers and fly wheels that that have to be drilled and welded for the life of the motor. Who told you that a single plane can't fit under a 79 hood. Dropped base air cleaner

Who told you that d port heads don't seal with round primary pipes

 

Wow that's a lot of projects to take on at once andyanth.

Each with potential pitfalls and installation quirks.

You are in the right place for help though.

I'll comment on the brackets for now. A company named Alan Grove Components is where you can get some quality brackets. 1/4" steel heavy duty stuff.

 

Thanks for your reply.
Its very pertinent and helfpul!

I'm trying to avoid debates on component selection as they have been beaten to death on this and other forums.

Thanks again.

 

For those in a similar situation than me, I found a great post that documents a zz4 install in a 77: http://corvettec3.ca/zz4.htm

 

Andy,
Gosh, where to begin.....well, I'll start with I am a fellow 79 Owner!
Then, on to...are you SURE you need to convert to a manual?
I ask, because I have done it. 72 Camaro, that I convinced myself just HAD to have a manual vs the perfectly good TH400 that lived in the car from the factory. The word that comes to mind throughout the process: QUAGMIRE!
I was also working with a "mechanic" on that project, in fact a reputable speed-shop with quite a bit of experience collectively under our belts. (I can turn a wrench too) Still.....quagmire of sorts. It's not so much getting all the parts (I sourced all), and planning, etc. That particular job just presents challenges with geometry that are simply not accounted for when planning. Z-Bracket lining up just right, shielding, angles, drive-shaft mod, cutting.....the whole gamut. I must tell you honestly, (I am sure folks will jump in all over this) 10 minutes after I was rowing through the gears.....all things above-mentioned considered, and my wallet being over $5K lighter, ....I missed the damned TH400! In fact, despite owning over a dozen stick cars, since that particular car/project....all auto, and perfectly happy. I must finally either be an old fart, or truly secure in my masculinity...or BOTH! lol
I agree also about the language regarding the "balanced 383".....as being somewhat suspect/worrisome. The path to easy, value-driven horsepower need not go down that route, or only that route.
I would press your mechanic for some detailed explanation/rationale on that, and bring it back here for the uber-knowledgeable folks here (myself not included!) to review.
On the auto-stick conversion.....dare I say, the words I too did NOT want to hear.....look at a car that was built as a stick from the factory....leave this one as she lays. It is truly the wise decision, unless that is, you: have unlimited resources, enjoy being frustrated, don't mind completely blow schedules/time-frames, enjoy chasing obscure parts, and like hounding people. No matter what you decide: best to you, and I am sure the 79 will rock.

 

I'll start over. the ZZ4 is an internally balanced 350. so if you take delivery of a 383 deluxe which comes with a weighted balanced to your motor flex plate. You would have to take the flex plate to a shop and have them make a weighted flywheel.

Oil pans do NOT every have clearance problems with the fly or flex

As to engine mounts I am all for morroso solid. Everything else failed on me including the Energy suspension red poly locking.

As to intakes. the 383 has 210cc heads (big ports) there is not a dual plane that port matches big gasket size heads. Smaller runner to big head port ruins flow. I've used single planes on my 79 for since it was almost new.

As to D port heads. nearly all aftermarket aluminum heads for SBC are D port. You are going to need 1 3/4 or 1 7/8th primary pipes with felpro blue steel gaskets https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...make/chevrolet

since they are aluminum heads you need to buy the ARP universal header stud kit.

You are going to have to buy or build a tranny cross member. Bowtie overdrives sells what you need.

To mount the pedals for a TKO I removed the front seat and dropped the steering wheel down. You have to weld the frame side of the Z-bar bracket to the frame directly inline to the ball stud on the side of the block. You want about a 2.5 degree drop on your driveline to the pinion. I mocked it up and machined an aluminum block as a tail shaft spacer to get the right angle. You need a 29 1/2 inch drive shaft. My keisler kit had chromemoly with 1320 billet main cap u joints

 

Do the hydraulic clutch, it's worth it!

 

Thanks Jon. Great input.
I am planning on buying the Automatic to Manual conversion kit from Silver Start Transmission with the TKO 5 speed. I've read some posts from folks who have done it and didn't come away with any horror stories. Did you use the kit on your install?

I'm a little unclear about your comment on the balanced 383 being worrisome. I'm not sure how this came up in this thread. The engine is a GM crate SP383, which is externally balanced. I think the OP was suggesting that an externally balanced engine implies inferior components and future issues.

Thanks again for the input and I'd appreciate if you let me know if you used the conversion kit with your install or if you know anyone who did and had significant issues.

 

Thanks for the great input!
Question...one of the reasons I wanted to go to a dual plane intake is the improved low RPM performance (in addition to not worrying about hood clearance).
In your opinion, for a street car with the engine I'm considering, do you think I'll notice a difference in the low end, or in idle with the single plane intake?

Thanks

 

Andy,
No kit, other than the one I created, however, it was in may ways a simpler conversion. TH400 - M22. No big deal, right?
Well, it got done, and it worked fine once completed, save a few tweaks and adjustments. I did an adequate job on creating my kit as well, nothing missing that I can recall. I planned this for some time prior. However, having gone through the conversion, and knowing other people who did the same, as well as hearing recounts/opinions from mechanics who have performed the service for customers: the consensus, myself included: one of those jobs that looks easy/straightforward on paper, but rarely is just that.


I know this is a general statement, and my experience may completely differ. I should add the car was anything but a basket-case. The opposite in fact. It was all there, and correct. I guess my biggest regret is not doing the lion's share of the work myself. I think though it would have been difficult, I would have had a better time of it. However, it was out of the question at the time. Work, travel, family....just no way. I look back and think what I could have done with that money on suspension on that particular car, and regret the choice. But again, that is MY experience, not your's.
I just read your post, and felt compelled to at least get you to think on it, even just a tad. If you are set, and have the kit, by all means do it. Just make sure your mechanic has a plan, and a schedule for all.

 

Thank you very much for the input!
I'll definitely consider it.

 

Let's me ask you a few things. Why did GM put a single plane on it to begin with? What happens to fuel atomization and port velocity when you go from a small intake runner to a bigger port head? Doesn't that 383 put out more TQ everywhere in the power band compared to the wimpy motor a 79 came with?

I did my Keisler kit in my garage and the milling parts at work. I posted way back when how many man hours it took me. At $100 bucks an hour it would really add up. It wasn't that big of a deal, but I worked at a race car shop. I went from a racing 700R4 that ran perfectly well for many years.

I bought all SFI flywheel and blow proof bell housing along with a super manual clutch that people use behind very powerful motors. Modern clutches are very easy on the leg. When somebody tells you to go with a hydro clutch it just says that they have not tried modern low effort manuals. It gives you feel for what it is doing.

 

Andy, you'll definitely need to address the concern that Gkull brings up.
You want the intake port size to make the heads' intake port size. (Although I think a smaller intake ports size is better than having an intake port be larger than the head's intake port and can even introduce a bit of anti-reversion.)

I think a 210cc SBC intake port means the ports are in the Felpro 1207 gasket range (1.38" x 2.28" = 3.146 sq inches)-ish. You need an intake with ports that big or you need to pay someone $$$ to port a dual plane to that size.



You should also pause to think about your goals especially peak HP RPM and the trade-off between low-end torque and high-end HP and ensure that all components meet those goals.

-You're on one hand saying you want a dual plane intake for lower-end torque, but then you're selecting shorty headers. There are TONS of threads on here on header brands that fit well with different SBC accessories; C3 Vettes have some pretty good options for full length headers that clear most everything you can throw at them (Steeroids racks and side headers are an exception to the rule; be careful if you want to do a Borgeson conversion, too).

You can use the full-length headers to also help support / "prop up" your low-end torque (and slightly improve fuel economy) and then just go with the single plane intake that is already matched to your 210cc heads' intake ports, too. With a hydraulic roller with 222 @ 0.050" duration and full length headers (and a manual trans)-you might find that you have plenty of low-end torque- if you can pull the advertised duration we can do a dynamic CR calculation or I can plug it into Desktop Dyno to get a torque estimate at various RPMs. -You might be trading HP potential for low-end torque you don't need especially with the manual trans...



Adam

 

I'd love more conversation on the D-port header front on here.

D-Port -specific headers seem pointless, IMHO. Part of the purpose of a D-port exhaust port is that, when combined with a normal header it acts as an anti-reversion dam.

--Are all D-Port heads raised height? Are these actually raised D port heads from GM or just D-port normal height ports?

-The Profiler heads that I'm using are pretty famous for having the raised exhaust ports but with the bolt holes for the header at the normal place- making fitament problematic. I've been told that you can simply slot the holes in the headers and 1 5/8" headers will then still fit just fine, but I'm yet to measure and test and this will screw up the ceramic coating.


Adam

 

Tip: Sell the included long water pump and buy a Corvette-style short one (the spacing is different than normal short-style water pumps and so is the shaft): then you can use all your original Corvette accessories and pullies without spacing every single accessory/ pulley, like you'll have to do with the long water pump. I went with this one for $109 (it's high volume) https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRW-Chevy-C...JWgTBw&vxp=mtr

Tip #2: Make sure that the included timing cover will fit under the Corvette-style short water pump as they sit slightly closer to the block and don't fit over all timing covers... (People claim that you can safely grind extra room on the block side of the water pump if this is a concern and then not have to deal with spacing pulleys and acessories.)



Adam

 

Thanks for the great input Adam!
The SP383 package I'm considering (SP383 Deluxe) has the matched single plane aluminum intake. Gkulls input is well taken and I'll prob have plenty of low end with the single plane that is part of the engine package.
Re headers, you're absolutely right that long tubes will give better performance and I may go that route. I'm just trying to give myself the most flexibility for fitment now and in the future. A steeroids rack is something I'm considering. However, the headers will be installed after a break in period for the engine so I have some time to live with the engine in the car and make that decision a little later. Much more research to do.

Thanks again for your input.

 

Thanks for the tip on the water pump and timing cover. Thats exactly the input I'm looking for.

 

I'm trying to help as most people on here know I only survive on all the help that CF gives me. Always take what I say with a grain of salt and if it conflicts with what pretty much anyone else says, go with the other person as a general rule. -Plus as a fellow black exterior, black interior 1979 owner your Avatar makes me even more inclined to share. ;-)

-Just 9 months ago I didn't know the difference between a standard SBC and a vortec intake, nor what the various Felpro gasket #'s meant. I'm learning each system/component one-at-a-time and I have some scary knowledge gaps hiding in dark places that come out and bite me every once in a while...





Adam

 

I respect your humbleness. ...and your choice of car.