Are the left and right front Calipers interchangeable?

They have one or two bleeder valves?

If only one, it is located near the top of the caliper? Inboard side?

Are the left and right rear calipers interchangeable?

They have two bleeder valves? One inboard and one outboard?

I just "chatted" with Ecklers on line technician, he told me they were not interchangeable. I have not felt comfortable with some of the answers the Eckler's technicians' answers.

Is it likely that air is captured in the top of the caliper after bleeding is causing mushy brake pedal?

thanks,

 

each brake only fits that side or front or back.you order left front right front ,right rear left rear.fronts have one bleeder rears have two.you should bleed rr inside bleeder first, then outside bleeder.left rear inside bleeder first then out side bleeder.right front brake then left front.

 

Each caliper is different for each corner of the car, the fronts have one up top outboard bleeder and the rears have two bleeders each on the top inboard and outboard. The rears have to be bled well and air can be brought back in the system if your rear spindles have too much end play.

 

try hitting the caliper with a rubber mallet as you bleed, it can dislodge air bubbles

 

thanks for a simple but easy to understand answer to the what goes where question. Confirms what I thought.

On the rears, you mentioned "end play on the spindles..." Do you mean the axle ends that the the rotor attaches to? From the factory they are held in place (besides the lug nuts) by rivets. By "end play" you mean?

I have read this before but rotor run out is really the issue regardless of what causes it?

Different question: what do you recommend when manually bleeding? Master Cylinder cover on or off? Thanks for your and all the others support.

 

For what this is worth:

If you bleed your brakes and the pedal is still soft and spongy. You still have air in it or you have leaks somewhere.

IF you are bleeding a system that went dry. Meaning the reservoirs in the master cylinder emptied out....it may take a bit more to get the air out due to the valving in the master cylinder. And if this occurred...making sure that the master cylinder is LEVEL when you bleed the system is a MUST ...or you can trap air in the valving of the master cylinder. And to prove that this comment is correct...when a person 'bench bleeds' a master cylinder...they have it level when they do this and it still takes some time to get all the air out of the master cylinder. Those who have done this will surely agree.

Bearing and rotor run-out or end play have nothing to do with you having a spongy or soft pedal AFTER you have just bled your brakes due to you have not moved the car.

IF you get your pedal really good and in a few hundred miles ( if that) the pedal starts to go down when pressed...then YES....your rotor run-out and bearing play can effect the brake system.

I use a pressure bleeder. If I were to the manual brake bleeding method. I always put the cap for the master cylinder back on. It keeps any fluid that may shoot up and getting all over the place.

Rotor run out is often times due the surface of the spindle and front hub where the rotor contacts them are off a bit. And the new rotor being installed is off a bit or the spindle and hub are off....which is where the shims that are offered can be used to index the rotor correctly and get the run-out like it needs to be. BUT...if the wheel bearings are all messed up and out of tolerance...then performing a rotor run-out procedure is pointless.

DUB