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80 Ignition problem

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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 09:52 AM
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Default 80 Ignition problem

I have an 80 California car ( It has a ECM ) I seem to be having an Ignition problem. I changed out the coil and it went away for awhile but now it's back. I then changed out the electronic module in the HEI and again it went away... After I drove for a few days I was out on the town and when I started it to leave it stated to act up again. It wont Idle you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running and it seems to be missing like crazy. It has an ECM but its not the stock motor carb. or HEI. Could the ECM be doing something like shorting the Hot to the HEI? It seems to only happen once the car gets wormed up.
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ohsoez
I have an 80 California car ( It has a ECM ) I seem to be having an Ignition problem. I changed out the coil and it went away for awhile but now it's back. I then changed out the electronic module in the HEI and again it went away... After I drove for a few days I was out on the town and when I started it to leave it stated to act up again. It wont Idle you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running and it seems to be missing like crazy. It has an ECM but its not the stock motor carb. or HEI. Could the ECM be doing something like shorting the Hot to the HEI? It seems to only happen once the car gets wormed up.
80 did NOT have an ECM. You either have an 81 registered as an 80, or you don't have an ECM.
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
80 did NOT have an ECM. You either have an 81 registered as an 80, or you don't have an ECM.
No. California had them first, in 1980. They also had a 305 if you bought it off the lot. You could order a 350.
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 12:17 PM
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Just the thought of a 305 in a C3 turns my stomach. I find that hard to believe but maybe.

One item that just hates the heat inside that dizzy is the modge. You said you changed it. Did you apply Heat Sink Compound to the bottom of the modge? If not, you are back to square one. Do not use dielectric grease. Completely different material.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 8, 2018 at 01:09 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 12:37 PM
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pickup coil
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Do not use dielectric grease. Completely different material.
Very important.

I bought a tube of heat sink grease for computers.

Radio Shack
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohsoez
No. California had them first, in 1980. They also had a 305 if you bought it off the lot. You could order a 350.
I knew about the 305, but not the ECM. Good luck.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Just the thought of a 305 in a C3 turns my stomach. I find that hard to believe but maybe.

One item that just hates the heat inside that dizzy is the modge. You said you changed it. Did you apply Heat Sink Compound to the bottom of the modge? If not, you are back to square one. Do not use dielectric grease. Completely different material.

Good call. I changed it with one from a spare HEI on my parts shelf. I didn't add any more grease. My new PertronixIII Module just came in so I will replace it with plenty of heat sink grease and let you know.

Last edited by Ohsoez; Apr 10, 2018 at 12:54 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 03:07 PM
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Ok now I'm confused... I changed the module and now it runs bad from the start. Before the motor would have to heat up now it starts hard and wont idle. Could the computer be the problem? Is there any way to bypass it?
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by calwldlife
pickup coil
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 04:06 PM
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Just to make us feel better, take the dust cover off the dizzy cap. Should be three screws. Take a peek around under there especially where the 12V comes in the side of the cap. All wires, connections look good? Should be a black ground wire on one corner of the coil. Remove that hold-down screw and wire brush the paint off the coil corner and wire terminal end. Re-install. You have to have a good ground there.
(IDK about ECM)
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohsoez
Ok now I'm confused... I changed the module and now it runs bad from the start. Before the motor would have to heat up now it starts hard and wont idle. Could the computer be the problem? Is there any way to bypass it?
Unplug the carb or the dizzy. If you get a check engine light, its bypassed.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Just to make us feel better, take the dust cover off the dizzy cap. Should be three screws. Take a peek around under there especially where the 12V comes in the side of the cap. All wires, connections look good? Should be a black ground wire on one corner of the coil. Remove that hold-down screw and wire brush the paint off the coil corner and wire terminal end. Re-install. You have to have a good ground there.
(IDK about ECM)
The Distributor is only about a year old. I have already changed the coil and checked the wires it's all clean looks good. I have changed the computer Rochester to a non-computer one so the computer isn't hooked to anything except the harness in the battery box.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohsoez
I have an 80 California car ( It has a ECM ) ............... Could the ECM be doing something like shorting the Hot to the HEI? It seems to only happen once the car gets wormed up.
Originally Posted by Ohsoez
No. California had them first, in 1980. They also had a 305 if you bought it off the lot. You could order a 350.
Originally Posted by Ohsoez
Could the computer be the problem? Is there any way to bypass it?
Originally Posted by Ohsoez
I have changed the computer Rochester to a non-computer one so the computer isn't hooked to anything except the harness in the battery box.
So, the ECM is not hooked up to anything but a source?
Basically, the ECM is irrelevant. Lets leave that off the table.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
So, the ECM is not hooked up to anything but a source?
Basically, the ECM is irrelevant. Lets leave that off the table.
Ok. Didn't know if it was some how affecting the hot to the distributor.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohsoez
Ok. Didn't know if it was some how affecting the hot to the distributor.
Nope. You have a plain old one wire dizzy with a tach output,correct? What brand/model?
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Nope. You have a plain old one wire dizzy with a tach output,correct? What brand/model?
You are correct. Don't know the brand got it off ebay.
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 10:52 AM
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No cracks in the cap or rotor?
how old are the plug wires and can you check their resistance with an ohm meter, 1K/foot of wire?
Only three parts to HEI, ignition coil, module, pickup coil, what havent you replaced?
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
No cracks in the cap or rotor?
how old are the plug wires and can you check their resistance with an ohm meter, 1K/foot of wire?
Only three parts to HEI, ignition coil, module, pickup coil, what havent you replaced?
Plug wires only a yr or two old I've swapped out the coil, cap, rotor, with spares I had in stock and a new module. It used to miss after it warmed up but after I changed the module it started rough and wont Idle.
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohsoez
Plug wires only a yr or two old I've swapped out the coil, cap, rotor, with spares I had in stock and a new module. It used to miss after it warmed up but after I changed the module it started rough and wont Idle.
Verify a full 12 volts in.

Verify the white wire from the pick up goes to the module "W."

The pick up "could" be failing on a cheap dizzy.
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