Headlight (non-vacuum) problem
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
From: The road is long and winding like a good mystery unfolding
Headlight (non-vacuum) problem
I just bought a 70 coupe, and am having problems with the headlights. The move up & down fine (no vacuum problem), but only 1 highbeam stays on consistantly. The other 3 will come on when the switch is first pulled, then come on & off. The previous owner thought it might be the switch, but wasn't sure. Any suggestions beyond the switch? If I decide to replace the switch, do I need to go with someone like eckler's, or can I find this at the local auto parts?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 5,635
Likes: 4
From: Orlando Floriduh
Re: Headlight (non-vacuum) problem (SJ70Shark)
It really sound like a ground problem... The switch is fine if any of the lights come one. Changing the switch would be a waste of time and money. BTW the switch is unique due to the vacuum portion. If you did need a switch, which you do not, then it would be difficult to find at a generic auto parts junk store.
[Modified by silvervetteman, 6:01 PM 10/16/2002]
[Modified by silvervetteman, 6:01 PM 10/16/2002]
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Niedernhausen, Germany
Re: Headlight (silvervetteman)
It is not a ground problem: If the headlight are connected in the way that all 4 are supposed to light up in hi-beam and you might also have HELLA headlights (rather than the original sealed beams), then the current that will have to be led over the switch is too high. Thus the switch heats up internally and reacts like a bi-metal switch: Heats up - switches off - cools down - switches on again - heats up.... etc. resulting in blinking headlights.
To cure this, you must use a 30 Amp relay which switches the headlights and is activated by the headlight-switch. So main power is led over the relay whereas the headlight-switch only needs to see a little current for acitvation of the relay.
Regards,
Thomas
To cure this, you must use a 30 Amp relay which switches the headlights and is activated by the headlight-switch. So main power is led over the relay whereas the headlight-switch only needs to see a little current for acitvation of the relay.
Regards,
Thomas
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 6
From: NC USA
Re: Headlight (vettedreams)
Hey vettedreams! Another Tarheel vetter is :cool: Where's Stonewall?
Anyway, you'd notice a big difference from 4.11s since with my M20 and 3.08s at 65mph, I'm at ~2700rpms. I've toyed with the idea of getting a Richmond 5 speed which would give me the equivalent of 4.56s in 1st gear but maintain my cruise rpms since the 5th gear is 1:1. Big problem is $$$$ since I just rebuilt my Muncie. Also, I haven't been into my diff yet so not sure of its condition. If you can stand the loss of low end acceleration, it would be a good change. :seeya
Anyway, you'd notice a big difference from 4.11s since with my M20 and 3.08s at 65mph, I'm at ~2700rpms. I've toyed with the idea of getting a Richmond 5 speed which would give me the equivalent of 4.56s in 1st gear but maintain my cruise rpms since the 5th gear is 1:1. Big problem is $$$$ since I just rebuilt my Muncie. Also, I haven't been into my diff yet so not sure of its condition. If you can stand the loss of low end acceleration, it would be a good change. :seeya
