Re-installing the A/C

Now that the motor is in and glorious as ever, I'd like to install the A/C system BUT I don't want the old Ginormous black compressor and old steel mounts on my newly rebuilt sexy motor!
So, what is there available? I want the new system in the same place as the old but, chrome, or billet preferably ~ I see the fancy compressors on Ebay and they are nice but, I'm more worried about the brackets fitting and the belts lining up !
Any help will be appreciated especially pictures if you're running one of these setups...
Thanks
https://www.classicautoair.com/corve...ning_chevy_ac/
Last edited by Street Rat; Apr 20, 2018 at 10:22 AM.
I'll be swapping out my OEM a/c system for a new Vintage Air system when I get that far into my resto/mod.

I'm not entirely motivated to replace the whole system if I can help it, I just want a working system that doesn't include the giant compressor- I've seen the small chrome jobbies and if I can get away with one of those, plus the brackets that fit and line up correctly I'd be happy...
The air blew before my rebuild but, it wasn't cold.

I will check them out but, my goal is a new compressor and mount that I can Frankenstein to the original parts (As long as it works, I'm happy)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
1) A Sanden 508 compressor with appropriate mounting brackets (as suggested above, Alan Grove makes good ones)
2) Find a supply of R12 refrigerant. Your system was designed for this, and it is currently loaded with the specific lubricant compatible with R12 (note that R12 was discontinued a number of years ago, and generally is no longer being manufactured). If you convert to T134a refrigerant, the current standard, you will have to clean your entire system of all traces of the R12 lubricant, which is not compatible with R134a, and replace it with the proper lubricant.
3) Replace your hoses with modern barrier hoses. These will have to be custom made. Necessary both to fit your new compressor and to handle the R134a (which will migrate through your current hoses)
4) If you convert to R134a, replace your current condenser with a multipath unit, to allow your refrigerant to shed more heat.
The above will get you cool air (not cold air) if your existing 45+ year old components are in good shape.
replace the old tired condenser....150 bux off the .net the large POA valve needs the top/inner small nut turned about 1/2 turn counter clockwise for 134 freon.....the expansion valve should also be changed....the blower motor need upgraded to a C4 unit, with a home made wood 3/4 inch spacer because the new squirrel cage is deeper....you will need to change the ground wire for a nice thick one, and mount it up top on the engine...I used tabs off the intake manifold....
obviously all new hoses....make damn sure you suck out all the dirt/leaves/crap from the evap housing, down LO.....to do that you need take out/cut out the rear of the fender liner, remove the blower, and the overflow tank, and get a shop vac down there.....NOW here is the trick, see that silly fresh air intake door that stays open except when you call for recirc of cabin air....?? take that off there unhook the spring, disconnect the vac line, and reinstall with a ring or RTV around the door/seal.....then behind the kick panel inside, a couple simple screws/bolts and the inner door comes out, making the car on permanent recirculate....better flow and cooling when you need it...MY '72 is a vert so I don't need recirc air....


Pics would be great!

replace the old tired condenser....150 bux off the .net the large POA valve needs the top/inner small nut turned about 1/2 turn counter clockwise for 134 freon.....the expansion valve should also be changed....the blower motor need upgraded to a C4 unit, with a home made wood 3/4 inch spacer because the new squirrel cage is deeper....you will need to change the ground wire for a nice thick one, and mount it up top on the engine...I used tabs off the intake manifold....
obviously all new hoses....make damn sure you suck out all the dirt/leaves/crap from the evap housing, down LO.....to do that you need take out/cut out the rear of the fender liner, remove the blower, and the overflow tank, and get a shop vac down there.....NOW here is the trick, see that silly fresh air intake door that stays open except when you call for recirc of cabin air....?? take that off there unhook the spring, disconnect the vac line, and reinstall with a ring or RTV around the door/seal.....then behind the kick panel inside, a couple simple screws/bolts and the inner door comes out, making the car on permanent recirculate....better flow and cooling when you need it...MY '72 is a vert so I don't need recirc air....


pro6ten compressor with mounting brackets
parallel flow condenser
new evaporator core
VIR Elminator kit
C4 fan motor with spacer
New seal kit for A/C box
New heater core
new (OE style) shutoff valve.
secondary heater core shutoff valve (brass)
I run R-134 and can have it serviced anywhere.
The air blows much harder than the stock system. Temps in the low 40s.
I also put down hushmat and reflectix on the firewall, tranny tunnel, floorpans and waterfall. This keeps heat out while the A/C pumps in cold air.
1.TXV metering. Why? You get the absolute coldest coil...without hitting that magical 32 deg. It also is constantly adjusting to different load demands unlike a fixed orfice metering device
2. The evaporator and the heater core aren't siamesed as one combined unit.
Also, in my 74 anyway, Classic has what they call a D.E.R. controller that totally takes the place of the clunky factory control levers instead of placing electronic "lady fingers" over the existing, clunky cable controls.
Last but not least, irreguardless of the which of the three choices you settle on, clearing up the entire passenger side firewall is a huge plus, and unlike factory, they all place the evaporator in the cabin where it belongs instead of in a hot engine compartment and only a few inches away from an exhaust manifold.
In closing, and since I've been in the hvac business for over 30 years, let me leave you with this because it works in all applications. Here you go....
"Give me a well insulated box and I'll show you how to hang meat".
Our C3's are basically a slapped together kit car with a LOT of room for improvement left on the table. One biggy is the lack of a well insulated box. I knew this going into my project and took care of this when I had the interior and carpet out.
I used a product called "Stinger Roadkill" and is about half the price of the other guys.
My cabin is WELL insulated and a blower setting above low speed will keep you chilling like a villian.
Perform due diligence and never look back! Good luck!















