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at that price it would almost be silly to not go that route, throw a set of smaller heads on the 383 and sell it off for what that cost me.
i dont know yet, thats why im here, you guys always have some good ideas
If you're seriously considering the 427, just do it. You'll never be happy with less. I just built a 427 with those 220 AFR heads and the thing is a BEAST! I love it. Do your homework. Dart, Mahle, and ARP are hardly no-name parts, but they don't mention who makes the crank and rods. I got my short block from Competition Products for about $4200 with all name brand stuff. Also the short block you posted uses pistons that require 76 cc chambers. My AFR heads came with 64 cc chambers and wouldn't work with those pistons. Probably something they would change for you when the build the engine. Also keep in mind you will need a small base circle cam with that engine and .300" taller lifters to clear the Dart block. In my opinion, the cam you have is too big anyway. I have a 233/241 110 LSA in mine, and I probably could have used a slightly smaller cam.
And it does depend what you want out of the engine too. That's a big cam, if you're not someone who loves a bunch of revs then a milder cam and compression choice may be more to your liking.
I'm not understanding the plus and minus piston cc posted
dished pistons and valve reliefs are minus cc. Decreasing compression
+ plus cc or domed pistons increase compression ratio.
as to head sizes for a 383. My first one I built using 227 cc because I thought my canton 18 degree 265 cc would have required custom headers and been lazy below 3500 rpm. I figured it out to be 11.2 with a. 021 head gasket and 64cc heads
as to roller cam 383 motors. The biggest I tried in my vette was a 242 248. It ran very well from 4500 to my rev limiters 7500 not a good around town motor
I down graded to a custom lobe billet steel solid roller of 236 242 112 ground 4 degrees retarded with. 640/.670 lift
I'm not in front of your motor to make a decision on what compression it might really be. But the heads might be 76cc and the big cam bleeds off the cranking compression. I built a 12.5 c/r 396 sbc with +10 cc domed pistons for a clients drag car. So it is doubtful that you have plus 7cc
I would check cam timing and imo it's probably too big. Would also check where those pistons are in the hole.... need more info on your running gear to get a complete picture of what is going on.
The short block is assembled and paid for. Pull the heads. Measure the chambers. Double check piston dome-dish. Degree the cam. You can CC chambers and pistons with a 4 buck flavor shooter from Walmart and a piece of plexi. Then decide if you are selling heads and buying more suitable, or redoing rotating assy.
Last edited by derekderek; Apr 21, 2018 at 12:11 PM.
gkull, When using a compression calulator to find static compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio, a dish piston is figured into the formula as a plus + because it adds volume to the cylinder. A domed piston is figured as a negative because it subtracts vol.
My pistons are domed, 0.125 tall, but are a neg (-2.4) to find my C.R.
Yeah its $4100 for the short block...(with ching ching no name parts in it)
Plus $400 or so to go through the heads, springs, setup for hyd roller etc.
Another couple hundred for a good intake, gaskets etc...
Another hundred for good pushrods in the correct length
Another couple hundred for a GOOD oil pan to help with windage from that 4" crank.
So on, so forth....it'll add up quick. $5k+ for a long block full of no name Chinese stuff in it...No telling if it will actually make power...(since they already have a cam in it, without knowing what heads/induction you'll be running )....
At this point, you may as well start over and build a GOOD 427 from scratch.... spend the $10k-12k, make 600hp and call it good. At least then you know what you are getting...
Or spend $3k on the 383, make 500hp+ and reuse 90% of what you already have sitting there...
Its your money......
i hear ya, the only scary part to the short block i posted is the unknowns of the crank and rods, everything else is fairly well name brand, they use howards cams and im not 100% sure on those either.
and yeah, the rest of the parts needed will add up in the end as you have stated, so would be looking at around 3x the cost of just changing pistons.
i actually just went and got the car out of storage today so am going to start with just a few small things, im pretty sure i have a 750 holley laying around somewhere i may stick on there see how that does.
I'm not understanding the plus and minus piston cc posted
dished pistons and valve reliefs are minus cc. Decreasing compression
+ plus cc or domed pistons increase compression ratio.
as to head sizes for a 383. My first one I built using 227 cc because I thought my canton 18 degree 265 cc would have required custom headers and been lazy below 3500 rpm. I figured it out to be 11.2 with a. 021 head gasket and 64cc heads
as to roller cam 383 motors. The biggest I tried in my vette was a 242 248. It ran very well from 4500 to my rev limiters 7500 not a good around town motor
I down graded to a custom lobe billet steel solid roller of 236 242 112 ground 4 degrees retarded with. 640/.670 lift
I'm not in front of your motor to make a decision on what compression it might really be. But the heads might be 76cc and the big cam bleeds off the cranking compression. I built a 12.5 c/r 396 sbc with +10 cc domed pistons for a clients drag car. So it is doubtful that you have plus 7cc
i believe that is 100% of where this issue came from, he wanted popups and thought +7 was the way to go, and ended up 14cc off of where he wanted to be.
i believe that is 100% of where this issue came from, he wanted popups and thought +7 was the way to go, and ended up 14cc off of where he wanted to be.
My 383 has two valve relief flat tops pistons -7 cc. decked block .015 compressed gasket, 64 cc heads......... and it comes to 11.18 C/R or so
Several aftermarket piston manufacturers provide a CR calculator that uses those crazy negative number net dome volumes. JE does it if I remember right. Some others do too. Counter intuitive if you ask me. If you calculate it yourself you probably would use a positive number for the dome volume. I know I do.
Like I always say- "No substitute for cubic inches". Seriously, if the decision was mine I would've thrown a BB in that car all day long. It's funny though- you have the car with no engine and I have an engine but no car. Real world issues.........
I looked on afr's website. Looks like 65 or 75 for chamber size.with 75 chambers and 7 cc dome about 10.5 to 1. With 7cc dish it is about 9.0. I think cranking pressure is so low cuz of too much duration. With 65cc head, it would be 11.91 with 7cc domes.
Last edited by derekderek; Apr 21, 2018 at 07:03 PM.
I looked on afr's website. Looks like 65 or 75 for chamber size.with 75 chambers and 7 cc dome about 10.5 to 1. With 7cc dish it is about 9.0. I think cranking pressure is so low cuz of too much duration. With 6tcc head, it would be 11.91 with 7cc domes.
yeah, my numbers are more than likely off because he couldnt answer any of the questions i had for him on it other than what parts he knew for sure were in there, i have to take it apart to figure out what is actually there because he didnt even know what length rod was used.
so i may have been too liberal with things such as the deck height and head gasket thickness.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I bet you don't like it because with that huge cam its lugging and lazy at parking lot speeds and stop & go traffic. Then it can make power w/WOT but it kind'a winds up slow. Correct?
Put a cam with less than 270 degrees full duration and advance it until you get the cranking pressure/throttle response you want. You want a tighter LSA angle also of 108 or tighter. Sorry I don't have an estimate how much cranking pressure increase w/reduced cam duration but its the intake valve closing point that controls it.
But man those are huge intake ports on the heads. More like something for a 427ci short block like you mentioned. Not much else is gonn'a fix that mismatch.
But really for the price of cam core and an weekends labor you can give it a try with a different cam and save what $5k?
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swap out the pistons and go from there. Dont be shy about it, grab that motor by its mounts and show it who's the boss!!!! If you got it cheap, put your money in it and make it a monster. If you dont want to change pistons throw a blower or turbo charge it, its gonna need BOOOOOST to make it a fire breather.....
swap out the pistons and go from there. Dont be shy about it, grab that motor by its mounts and show it who's the boss!!!! If you got it cheap, put your money in it and make it a monster. If you dont want to change pistons throw a blower or turbo charge it, its gonna need BOOOOOST to make it a fire breather.....
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