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I am just finishing up my conversion to a Borgeson steering set-up, but I'm scratching my head over one thing.
Do I just screw on the drag link adapter as far at it will go onto the drag link, line up the ball stud with the Pitman arm and tighten everything up?
The old power steering control valve was just on there all they way when I removed it, but there are a lot of threads on the drag link adapter and I'm second-guessing myself that it is intended to be adjustable and shouldn't necessarily be on all the way.
The idea is to use the adapter to adjust the length of the drag link until the tie rod assemblies are as close as possible to the exact same length with the wheels pointed straight ahead.
That had sort of been my suspicion. Do you think that is something that would be done at the alignment shop? I would assume that they would only deal with the tie rods when they do the alignment and would not touch the drag link adapter.
I am just finishing up my conversion to a Borgeson steering set-up, but I'm scratching my head over one thing.
Do I just screw on the drag link adapter as far at it will go onto the drag link, line up the ball stud with the Pitman arm and tighten everything up?
The old power steering control valve was just on there all they way when I removed it, but there are a lot of threads on the drag link adapter and I'm second-guessing myself that it is intended to be adjustable and shouldn't necessarily be on all the way.
Any advice from anyone else who has done this?
When I installed my borgeson system I found the adapter to be very very hard to thread all the way to match just like the control valve. It was so hard I thought it was cross threaded. Anyways I didn't feel right about it and I made a few calls and I'm not sure, but I believe Borgeson was one of them and they did mentioned that it had to go further in than what I had gone with . I used a LARGE set of Channel Locks to get it in as far as I did. Second picture! you didn't say if you were having a hard time threading it all the way, like I did. You can see the channel locks bite marks on the end of the adapter. I just feel better about it! Good luck Hope it helps!!!
Last edited by redcruz1120; May 7, 2018 at 04:34 PM.
Good gawd redcruz now I understand your screen name lol. I did not have the same trouble threading my adapter all the way on. I did however clean the male portion of the threads on the drag link with a wire wheel until they were wicked clean. That may have helped.
OP I can’t speak for your alignment shop. The guy I’m taking mine to will for certain make sure the drag link length is set to optimal for the best handling/driving characteristics. I would think that any sort of “performance” type alignment shop would do that.
For certain you want the drag link to be where it should be though. If you have your doubts about your shop, it’s not that hard to to make sure that portion of the alignment is correct. There are all sorts of shadetree ways to set the wheels perfectly straight ahead. Once that’s done (steering wheel straight ahead, main arm connected to steering column straight ahead), just compare the lengths of the tie rod assemblies to each other at the different possible positions of the drag link adaptor. I’m guessing it will be somewhere around 2 or 3 turns out from fully tight.
redcruz1120, Thanks for the photos (and kudos to you on your gorgeous undercarriage - no pun intended). I, like Kie, had no problem screwing the drag link adapter on. I had to certainly use vice grips to get the old PSCV off though.
Kie, Your guess is pretty good. I got under it today and backed it off 4 turns and then my steering wheel and wheels matched up. I am talking it to an alignment shop that specializes in vintage cars tomorrow to add some caster and ensure that the front end alignment looks good. I will ask them about the drag link adapter also and see what they have to say. I am pretty comfortable with it being 4 turns out. It is about 3/4 to 4/5 of the way on and there are plenty of threads engaged.
Short answer, you want to install the adapter as far as it will go for maximum thread engagement and strength. When the drag link is installed, make sure the pitman arm and idler arm are relatively parallel to each other so they travel in the same arc by adjusting the Borgenson adapter. This will keep the toe change (ackerman) consistent side to side when turning. As far as the relationship of the steering wheel to the wheels, the steering wheel is set centered and locked in place, then each front tire's toe is adjusted independently to spec. All this is done AFTER the rear is set if the alignment is done properly.