Wont turn over and wont start are 2 completely different things. Which is it?

 

Sorry for the confusion. I have power to everything, but car won't turn over.

 

All the things you listed: Booster, Vac hoses, rebuilt carb, etc have nothing to do with a "No Crank Issue. Normally I would say you have a Ground Strap issue. But the fact that the engine would not shut-off might indicate the IGN switch is to blame.
There is a Sticky post at top of home page about IGN Sw.

 

Thanks. I'm thinking the ignition switch may be the culprit as well after doing add'l research last night. I swap it out this weekend and we'll see what happens.

 

Before replacing it look and see if it's just loose. It could be moving back and forth

 

Going in and blindly replacing an ignition switch without doing some tests is kinda crazy in my book.

Many things can cause this that have nothing to do with it being the ignition switch.

DUB

 

Lets see your lists DUB, of the many things why an engine will not shut-off turning the IGN key off.
Solenoid perhaps? IDK

 

I'd be curious as to the many things as well. Running great one weekend but won't shut off. Following Saturday, starts right up and shuts off perfectly. Change the master cylinder the next day and now it won't turn over.

 

OK.

Starting off without any more detailed information...and only using what was previously written. Here is what I got from it and how I made my assessment.

I have no clue if any of the cars other electrical systems are being powered up when the key is turned on.

SO..due to the horn relay and buss bar for many fusible links are located near the master cylinder. These could have been effected due to being moved/broken or damaged. Thus..not allowing power to get it the ignition switch itself.

Possible arching out on the buss bar when the master cylinder was being installed which in turn would or could effect the condition of the fusible link down at the starter that brings power to the buss bar on the horn relay.

Knowing that the car was running previously. And when it was brought back into the garage and would not shut off by the ignition key. I am suspect that when the new upgrade for the distributor was done. IF the wire that was originally attached to the solenoid had some how got loose or was removed and is now touching the positive battery cable at the solenoid...which would in turn keep the coil alive and the car would not shut off the engine when the ignition key is turned off.

So I would have to verify that the fuse panel was hot in those fuses that are hot at all times...and then check those that are hot when the ignition key is turned on. When I write 'hot' it does not mean in regards to temperature...but rather that the circuit is now has 12 volts positive current on it.

Then if that is all good. I would go out to the starter solenoid and verify that the 12 gauge purple wire that is attached to it is getting 12 volts when you turn the key to crank it.

IF it does not show that it is getting 12 volts positive current...I then would check to see if the purple wire in the electrical ignition switch mounted on top of your steering column has 12 volts coming out of it when you go to crank it.

IF it has 12 volts coming out of it but not at eh solenoid...then you have an OPEN in that circuit some where.

IF the purple wire is getting 12 volts at the solenoid...then I suspect it is the solenoid or starter armature. Because we all know there can be times that tapping on the round portion of the start to shock it and make it work does occur from time to time. And knowing that the car was running even when the key is off...leads me to believe that it can possibly be at the starter and worth taking a look at instead of gong in and assuming that the electrical ignition switch mounted on the column is the culprit.

I am NOT saying that the electrical ignition switch is good or bad...but it should be confirmed by performing some tests before jumping in and replacing it.

DUB

 

All electrical systems seem to be functioning as usual when key is turned on. Headlights operate and gauge lights illuminate. None of the wiring was disturbed during master cylinder swap. Swap was easy and wiring was not touched. I will go down your list as well as check wiring on ignition switch. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help.

 

It may be the electrical ignition has finally decided to go bad out of the blue...but with that mentality..it could also be the solenoid/starter area also.

Hopefully you find it and it should not be that hard to find the problem.

KEEP IN MIND you do have a CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH that is mounted to your clutch pedal that MUST be pushed in all the way to engage the starter...if it is still correctly installed.

DUB

 

Mine might be an 80, but I can verify that the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor before it will crank over.

 

how about the starter?,,or the starter solenoid ,,lets look for the simple things first--before pulling the engine

 

Some of are missing a key sentence here. O.P. says car won't shut-off. Had to dump the clutch in gear to kill the engine.

 

Yes, last week it ran but wouldn't shut off. This week won't start.

 

Update. Just popped the hood and was checking wiring and happened to check coil which was insanely hot. Even with the key out of the ignition. Does this mean the ignition switch is staying on and powering the coil? I replaced the coil as stated earlier with a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil and up until last week the car ran fine. This is my first Vette and I'm learning as I go, so trying to figure things out on-line. Haven't really found anyone dependable in N Florida to work on it yet.

 

Also, do I need to continue to wire the ballast with this coil? Could the coil be fried at this point?

 

Just tested the coil and the primary reading is at 1.7 but the secondary reading was only 5.80 and I understand it needs to be above 11 and close 13.5.

 

stick a screw driver into the 2 starter posts and short them together, i had a 56 with some melted wires that i had to do this to to start it