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I’ve removed, sand blasted, painted and rebuilt my headlight assemblies. After looking through the AIM I still have some questions.
1. Is there any adjustments I should do with the assembly outside the car to get a rough placement? Things like the length of the rod on the actuator will be a pain to remove and adjust while in the car. Is there a starting setting point when putting them back together before I attache them back to the car?
2. There is a small screw on the front mount of each assembly. I think it was the outside front mount on each. It looks like a grounding screw but I dont see it referenced in the AIM. I ran all new wiring and taking a look at true wiring it looks like there is a ground at each headlight plug assembly, Here is a picture of the screw I’m talking about.
Doing any rough adjustments is just a waste of time due to all that matters is getting it set and adjusted to the body.
From setting the outer pivot bearings to the 'W' bracket...all of that is pointless. All fot hat is set when you get it in place.
As for that hex head bolt...I am assuming you have a 1968 or 1969 because you did not mention it. THAT bolt is used to hold the top of the OUTER park signal bracket.
Thanks again DUB, it is for a 1969! Thanks for the help. As I was putting pt back together I was just wondering about it. So many adjustment points I just wanted to make sure!
It was smart for you to ask...because these headlight door DO have a lot of adjustments to them to get them in and working correctly.
One MAJOR adjustment many people may find causes them a problem when they think they are all done. And that adjustment is the adjustment that allows the door to go HIGH enough and LOCK not position so you can install your headlight bezel....and the front lower edge of the headlight bezel is just slightly below the front edge of the body in front of it.
This adjustment has nothing to do with the adjustment on your vacuum pod. The pod gets adjusted to it instead.
This adjustment I am referring to is done by the three bolts that hold the steel 'W' bracket onto the actuator support that you linkage is attached to.
Then the bent steel bracket that is bolted to the side of your headlight door is adjusted to when the headlight door is UP...it will not bounce or move and it can still LOCK in place.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. After blasting and assembling I took note that the three bolts on each side for pivots and the three bolts on the ‘W’ bracket are sloted to allow adjustments. While I can get to those side bolts to adjust on the car the ‘W’ bracket will be a lot more difficult. I attached it roughly centering the bolts in the slots but that ‘W’ bracket has a good bit of adjustment travel. Is there a way to eyeball the opening height off the vehicle? Like could I use the bracket as a reference to how much the headlight assembly should be at when open?
Is there a way to eyeball the opening height off the vehicle? Like could I use the bracket as a reference to how much the headlight assembly should be at when open?
Not really and you are over thinking it due to variables. If anything you can do is put those three bolts for the 'W' bracket back in the same spot that they were...if the witness marks are still there...that is all about you can go.
When I do this I do not have the rod from the vacuum pod attached either. Often times the vacuum pod is NOT bolted to the headlight assembly during this fitting/adjustment procedure. I put it in later.
This is so I can get to that one bolt that is kinda blocked by the vacuum pod rod.
Rebuilding headlamp assembly question
