NO START CONDITION(S)
these are just the basics you should start with:
...1...check ECM for codes
...2...check battery, check all ground and electrical connections & charging system
...3...check tank for fuel
...4...listen for fuel pump to run for 2 seconds with key in the on position.... 4 & 5 should be done at the same time, as you want to make sure that the injectors do prime after the fuel pump turns on
...5...remove air cleaner and look for injectors to prime after fuel pump turns on
...6...if injectors don't prime, check fuse panel for the two 3 amp injector fuses to see if blown or fuse panel corrosion
...7...remove gas door to access fuel pump and make sure the small rubber hose from the pump to the fuel line is secured and not deteriorated, (you will have to remove pump to check) as if it is not the proper type of "fuel rated hose", just sitting in the gas will destroy it by making it soft and crack open, thus making fuel delivery and pressure practically non-exsistent. Replace with "fuel rated hose" if necessary. Also check hose(s) and wire connections at the top of the pump assembly, replace (again with "fuel rated hose") & repair as neccessary
...8...check and or change fuel filter ...ACDelco part# GF482
...9...check FP (Fuel Pressure) for proper psi, should be at least 13 psi for our engines, best place to check is between the TB's. but you can also check at the fuel filter. Also it is possible that your Fuel Pump may be old and not working correctly, which cannot only cause fuel starvation problems, which in turn leads to other idling and driveability problems as well. It has been recommended that if you have to change out the Fuel Pump, to replace it with a 1985 Corvette TPI model, as it flows more pressure. Even a new 82 replacement would be better than your worn out pump.
...10...check oil pressure switch, needs 4 psi to provide power to the pump during start-up
...11...check CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) for proper operation, it is located at the right front of the block (passenger side) just underneath the A.I.R (Air Pump Assembly) as this may contribute to a no-start or hard-starting condition.
...12...check 20 amp ECM fuse near battery, take fuse out, make sure there is no corrosion in the connection, also check ECM connections for any type of corrosion, etc..R&R if necessary
...13...when checking ECM connections, make sure connection is tight, if not make sure pins are aligned correctly and reattach
...14...check distributor cap, rotor, coil and ignition module. Make sure all electrical connections to the distributor are in place and secure. Ignition module needs a coating of silicone grease or thermal compound between the bottom of the module and the plate it attaches to, as if it is dry, the module will eventually fry and leave you stranded
...15...check all ignition wires (spark plug wires) for breaks in the wire and secure connection to the spark plugs
...16...pull spark plugs to check for fouling conditions and if fouled, replace all spark plugs rather than just the fouling one(s)
...17...check neutral safety switch for proper operation, your vehicle should only start in the "PARK" (P), or "NEUTRAL" (N) position for the auto trans only '82

 

But it does not let you know what the actual pressure is. You can only assume at that point... and hope it is high enough.

Kinda like a test light. It may light up but you still do not know for sure if it is 12 volts or not. Thus a voltmeter is needed.

DUB

 

You are correct about ECM not checking for FP, but a CEL could mean other things that will affect the proper operation. No CEL means good for the electrical side of things like I stated before.

Yes, fuel will pour out of the line when you open the fuel filter line, not gallons or anything, but it will pour out about a cup or so or as much as what's in the line from the tank to the filter which is going to be more than a few drops... jus sayin'.

To OP, PM me about FP assembly if you want one.