When I bought this car the center console wasn't screwed to anything, it was just loose.
I bought the center console front bracket, it fits perfect and my center console + parking brake console are rock solid where they should be.
Problem is now my dash panels don't fit to the center console, the gauge bezel seems to fit properly but the right and left dash are nowhere near a fit at the bottom corners of the gauge bezel.
The left and right dashes (1 dash 2 dashes ? sorry ENG not my 1st language) seem to fit correctly on the door side of things, as well as the upper dash is where it should be.
(disclamer: the car has been rebuilt in 2008, before I bought it, I stripped the whole dash when I installed Vintage Air to clean it up and put some dynamat)

- Do you think the dashes are the old CorvetteAmerica "dash that doesn't fit" ?
- Is there any point in trying to heat form the dashes into place ?
- should I just cut a 2m x 1/2m plywood and call it a day ? nahhh kidding

Thanks for your input

 

Those bottom ears are tight on my 71. May have to loosen and move the console backwards slightly along with pushing back on the bottoms of the dash panels (careful not to crack one!). I'd take those cover pieces off so as to see what's going on a bit better. These dashes don't really just fit right up, they take some hand fitting and massaging. I've used Sugru and epoxy in worn out holes, let it cure well then re-drill.

 

thanks, I tried to move the center console backwards (so I would have to fabricate new fixing points to make that work, I would need about 10mm backwards) but then the shifter hits the frame in 1st-3rd gear.. so backing the center console is a no-no.
The bottom corners on the dash won't go anywhere, maybe with some heat applied, anyone tried that to massage them in place ? If I try to bend them in place it puts too much strain on the steering colum part of the dash and it would crack in no time..
As for the cover pieces.. well.. I had the whole dash out at some point so believe me I have a clear idea of what's going on, I just don't see how it's possible it will fit, thanks for your input

 

It looks like the entire dash is sitting too far rearward. Is the top dash pad installed correctly with the front clips slid under the the metal frame or are the end clips sitting on top of the lower windshield frame? If the dash pad clips are not under the frame points it causes the dash pad to butt up against the windshield and sit too high and too far back.

 

the upper dash is sitting properly, I even removed everything just to check that, the clips are in the windshield frame and the screws on the upper dash brace sit properly, furthermore I think from the pics above it seem to be fitting properly with the windshield side posts..
I tried to think what would need to move to make it fit but can't figure it out..

 

Not know if any of this will help you out.

Do you know if the speedo/tach dash panel and the right side map pocket dash panels are originals or not???

Do you know if the top dash pad is original or not???

I will say this: When I am instating these parts..and I mean the hand brake cover all the way to the windshield. Not knowing if any of this will help you out.

I make sure that the hand brake can be installed where it needs to be because it then sets the position of where the shifter console goes. This is so I can make sure the good hard plastic type hand brake cover can properly fit onto the shifter console and not bulge out on the sides and look all crappy..

So..Sometimes I need heat up the vinyl on the aftermarket shifter console and get the hand brake to fit CORRECTLY and allow the vinyl to cool so the look in this area is as is should be. This also means that little part that geos onto the shifter console that slows was out the front opening of the and brake. I want that junction of parts to be as perfect as I can.

When it comes to the shifter console meeting up with the gauge cluster.. I bolt the gauge cluster to the shifter console and slide it in . This way I know I can get both of the nuts that hold the shifter console secured to the gauge cluster. And the controls for my A/C are laying on the floor of the car and I can work them in while sliding it into place. The cable to the hot/cold vent in the A/C box may need to be detached to allow the A/C controls to have some movement . If the car is an NON-A/C car. This still applies with the cables for it and ALSO the fresh air vent doors. Obviously already have the dash installed the hand brake cover is not installed yet.

AS for the dash panels. I make sure that they fit as needed by taking a close look while I have these parts out on the table to make sure that they can interface correctly.

The areas of your dash where the corners are poking out. I have heated them up CAREFULLY and moved them and then cooled them down with water. Test fit and repeat if needed.

DUB

 

how do I tell if they are original ? I haven't seen any marks on it that suggest original/reproduction.
I think I will try the heat method

 

I found a part number on one of them 9750465 I think it's the driver side dash, would that be 1969 ?

 

Maybe I missed something in the text but installing the side screws in the gauge cluster means having to move the console back somehow to let them engage. Doesn't that strongly suggest the console position is the problem?

 

Thanks ignatz, any idea welcome, The center console feels in the right place, i.e. it is bolted to the big front U bracket which is then bolted to the tunnel bracket. the parking brake console screws into the center console and on the back of the brake console, the bolt goes through the rear wall behind the seats, so none of that can move.
Below is showing the alignment with the center console fitted where it should be, on the right is an experiment to see how much rearward movement would be needed, you can see the center console front support showing on the second pic, you can see the difference in holes alignment..(but as explained above that doesn't even work as the shifter then hits the frame when in forward position)

 

If the console is in the right place and mates with its support and if you feel the cluster is in the right place, engaging the side screws then means pushing the outer panels back. The right side is easiest, what's keeping it from moving in? Vintage Air maybe? Even the aftermarket stuff isn't this bad.

 

The back of the factory dash panels are made with white plastic that may have a slight marble look to it. Aftermarket ones .have a black plastic backing..

It does have aftermarket A/C in it which can slightly complicate things but not that bad that you can not address. Often times it is the A/C control and the added on mechanisms that can get in the way and cause for wiring and fiber optic cables and such to get in the way adn need to be routed so it does not effect your control for the A/C.. I have installed these A/C systems and they can be a challenge at times to get all the panels to fit and everything work..

Simply put....and to confirm what 'ignatz' wrote. From the photos you have posted and how things look when no screws are installed in the shifter console.. Because I have seen this many times when I do this work. The gauge cluster is going to have to be able to go far back as possible..so the speedo/tach dash panel and map pocket dash panel can also go back.....so these CORNERS of the dash panels that you are concerned about can go back and mate up correctly with the end of your shifter console.

NOW...with you having an aftermarket A/C system in place...this is where it can be a challenge...especially if the dash panels will not go back due to improper installation of them after the A/C system was installed. If my memory serves me correctly...the map pocket dash panel has to have a notch cut out of it on the bottom edge so it does not hit the new system.

DUB

 

Thanks DUB, so let's consider that the top part of the side panels is hinged to the upper dash (because the fit is good and screws go straight in), now if I want to hinge back the panel to make the bottom corners fit it won't go back, because of 2 reasons, the dash hits the steering column (and the fit would appear less good with a big angle between the panel lip/steer column), and on the door side of the frame, at the bottom left corner it won't go further back, even if I disregard the screws.
As for the passenger side, yes I did cut that bottom corner, but same thing, on the door side of it the fit is good and it won't go further back.
The only way it would go in is if I manage to heat twist the panels but that seem difficult and not the right thing to do..

 

I think the gauge bezel is as far back as possible, and also in the right place, the fit is good at the top, the radio sits slightly on the tunnel and it's bolted onto the center console front support..
It was a real PITA to put in I'll agree with that

 

I am pretty sure my steering column is shimmed down a bit, although I couldn't find a picture

 

I am not joking about how much FUN putting these parts in even if they are all still factory parts ....including A/C ducts,etc. As you are seeing for yourself.

I can tell you that when I bolt the gauge cluster to the shifter console and begin to slide it in place so I can use my drift pins and get the shifter console to get indexed and pinned into the front and rear brackets that hold it in place. The amount of EFFORT I can use to push back the gauge cluster can be quite extreme...but it works.

In doing so....SOMETIMES I install the four screws that hold the left and right dash panels to the gauge cluster WHILE I am pushing it back...due to these panels are out a bit. But that is ONLY after I have pushed on them an can see that they will go back so the bottom corner of the dash panels are like they are supposed to be and look line the second photo in POST #10.

Keep in mind that the entire dash assembly may need to go up a little also by applying force. And this slight raising of the dash panels if needed will be held in place by the metal bracket you riveted to the shifter consoled and how it gets secured to the front bracket. The reason I mention this is on many I work on the roller wheels of the A/C controls are actually scrubbing on the either the floor board or stuff near the wheel and when it is slightly raised. The roller wheels operate smoothly.

DUB

 

Since the top part of the dash fits ok but the bottom looks to be too far out in the second set of pics I would be looking at the aftermarket AC tubes. Also, on a 69 it is very easy to get the trip odometer reset cable caught or wedged between the metal bracing and the back of the speedometer instead of to the left of the brace which not only holds the left pad out at the bottom but also kinks the cable so it no longer works. Something behind there is holding the pad out. If your seat is out it's time to lay on your back under the dash to see why it won't go all the way back in.

 

 

hey Jesse, no haven't managed to fix it yet, I don't see how I can actually move anything, I suspect the dash panels are bad quality repros, I might leave it like this, might put some heat on it.. not for now though, many other projects..
what's wrong with yours ?