First Time With C3 Brakes
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
First Time With C3 Brakes
Replacing my 1982 Front Brake pads, pulled the old pads out pretty easy but now I cant get the pistons to stay in far enough to get the new pads in place. The pistons will move freely but I gues the springs behind them just push them back out. What is the trick to this?
Aprreciate the help!
Aprreciate the help!
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,720
Likes: 557
From: Seattle Washington
They are the same as any other Disc Brake system. Have You taken the Cap off the Master Cylinder ? When You push the Piston in the Oil needs someplace to go. Generally unbolting the Caliper and installing the Pads and then expanding them before slipping them over the Rotor is the way its done. Auto Parts stores have a Tool to do this its just a mixture Scissor Jack. However C-Clamps and many other methods have worked.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
They are the same as any other Disc Brake system. Have You taken the Cap off the Master Cylinder ? When You push the Piston in the Oil needs someplace to go. Generally unbolting the Caliper and installing the Pads and then expanding them before slipping them over the Rotor is the way its done. Auto Parts stores have a Tool to do this its just a mixture Scissor Jack. However C-Clamps and many other methods have worked.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 706
Likes: 294
From: New Jersey
The pistons have a spring behind them to screw you up.
A brake pad tool like the one in the referenced link helps
https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-b...tion-tool.html
(note, these are sold as eaches, get two.)
A brake pad tool like the one in the referenced link helps
https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-b...tion-tool.html
(note, these are sold as eaches, get two.)
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
The pistons have a spring behind them to screw you up.
A brake pad tool like the one in the referenced link helps
https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-b...tion-tool.html
(note, these are sold as eaches, get two.)
A brake pad tool like the one in the referenced link helps
https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-b...tion-tool.html
(note, these are sold as eaches, get two.)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,427
Likes: 1,560
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi again!
Pulling the caliper is sometimes faster than playing wac-a mole.
Open and close the bleeder screw to be sure it's not frozen
Using a 5/8 six point socket and a breaker bar remove the caliper.
Open the bleed screw, compress the pistons and insert the pads and use a 7/8 socket between the pads (to hold them apart) as you reinstall the caliper.
Open and close the bleeder screw to be sure it's not frozen
Using a 5/8 six point socket and a breaker bar remove the caliper.
Open the bleed screw, compress the pistons and insert the pads and use a 7/8 socket between the pads (to hold them apart) as you reinstall the caliper.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
You can try using a paint scraper or similar wide, thin flat piece of steel to hold the pistons back while the pad is slipped in between the scaper and rotor. Then just pull up on the scraper to remove. Should you try this, be very careful not to **** the piston in its bore. I've had success way, way back using a butter knife, lol.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 490
Likes: 99
From: The South
Standard GM disc brakes. I pull the caliper, install new pads and then simply wedge a large enough socket in there that keeps the pads spread apart while I reinstall the caliper. Simply pull the socket out as your drop the caliper back down over the rotor.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 470
From: Wichita Kansas
Pulling the caliper is sometimes faster than playing wac-a mole.
Open and close the bleeder screw to be sure it's not frozen
Using a 5/8 six point socket and a breaker bar remove the caliper.
Open the bleed screw, compress the pistons and insert the pads and use a 7/8 socket between the pads (to hold them apart) as you reinstall the caliper.
Open and close the bleeder screw to be sure it's not frozen
Using a 5/8 six point socket and a breaker bar remove the caliper.
Open the bleed screw, compress the pistons and insert the pads and use a 7/8 socket between the pads (to hold them apart) as you reinstall the caliper.
Wac-a-mole, that's funny!
Rather than a socket, I have a finely measured and cut piece of wood from a 2 x 4 that I use. It just slides right out as I drop the caliper over/on the disc.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 4,510
From: Virginia
If you can replace the pads with the calipers in place, it can prevent repair creep, as I discovered when I had to helicoil the hub flange where the caliper bolt had stripped out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Mines not exactly a precision piece of wood, (never "micrometered it) but a "chunk" of wood a frogs hair wider than the rotor works too. Or buy some pad clips from Vette vendors. Little more high tech.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jun 23, 2018 at 07:27 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
DO NOT simply push to pistons back into their bores. That will just push the oldest, nastiest brake fluid back into the master cylinder so that it contaminates everything. As you gently try to separate the space for the new pads, crack the bleeder valve to exhaust whatever fluid you need to get the pad installed, Tighten the valve back down BEFORE you release all pressure on the piston. (Remember that the rear calipers have bleeders on each side.) If you do this well, you should not have to bleed the brakes (if they were firm before you did this work).
Add new fluid to the master cylinder as needed so that level is always above where it can start sucking air.
Add new fluid to the master cylinder as needed so that level is always above where it can start sucking air.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
DO NOT simply push to pistons back into their bores. That will just push the oldest, nastiest brake fluid back into the master cylinder so that it contaminates everything. As you gently try to separate the space for the new pads, crack the bleeder valve to exhaust whatever fluid you need to get the pad installed, Tighten the valve back down BEFORE you release all pressure on the piston. (Remember that the rear calipers have bleeders on each side.) If you do this well, you should not have to bleed the brakes (if they were firm before you did this work).
Add new fluid to the master cylinder as needed so that level is always above where it can start sucking air.
Add new fluid to the master cylinder as needed so that level is always above where it can start sucking air.